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Tbl means table. It calculates amount and time for the interval dose.
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It was still on Auto but adding the code turned the pump on as soon as I submitted it. I think the key was removing this part of the code, per Neptune response.“Tbl” is good. I think you turned the DOS pumps to “on” instead of “auto” the first go around.
I use a LLS in my saltwater bin for AWC. Really helpful since I can plan on when to make more vs a “oh crap” error. You might want to consider it as it gives you more information. You can program it to turn off your AWC system at a certain level too. It plugs into a FMM port just like the optical sensor.
I have 3-4 and another 1 on the way. The sensors do not do well (in my experience) with snails and a magnet mount. I have very large turbo snails so that’s my problem. I have one in my temporary display but will remove it when my new tank arrives. Where you @glasscages? The snails keep bumping my ATO sensors too and the last 2 vacations I’ve used the LLS to add ATO water manually and remotely a few times a dayIt was still on Auto but adding the code turned the pump on as soon as I submitted it. I think the key was removing this part of the code, per Neptune response.
Fallback OFF
Set ON
I was considering the LLS. How does it seem to be working for you? Like everything, I've heard mixed reviews.
I have the optical sensors with the mounts on them already, they seem to work well but none are in my display tank.I have 3-4 and another 1 on the way. The sensors do not do well (in my experience) with snails and a magnet mount. I have very large turbo snails so that’s my problem. I have one in my temporary display but will remove it when my new tank arrives. Where you @glasscages? The snails keep bumping my ATO sensors too and the last 2 vacations I’ve used the LLS to add ATO water manually and remotely a few times a day
I use them in my sump, mixing station, and refugium (maybe. Will see how it goes). I have been happy with them. I have purchased a magnetic mount on Etsy I can’t recommend. I made my own with some old Tunze magnets I had laying around but that makes it cost prohibitive. The clip works well if you have rimless.
Other than snails bumping them, I have had 0 issue with them. They are really more for keeping track of additives, ATO water, and AWC water but as a control freak, I put them everywhere and like the extra data. Maintenance has been nil (I was one of the first to purchase so I’ve had them awhile).
www.saltwateraquarium.com
Looks like that is handled in the Basic settings on each pump.The "fallback off" should have been left. This means that if the DOS ever loses communication with the brain, it will turn off.
The "set on" statement is what turned the outlet on.
Thanks for the feedback!I have 3 LLS on my system. 2 of them are the 35" ones. 1 in the saltwater mixing bin and the other in the rodi storage bin.
I can tell you that they are finicky and no matter how you calibrate them they're not accurate. I have my awc shut off when the container gets to 2 inches. But in actuality, it turns off at 7". I got tired of trying to "be smarter" than the software and now I live with inaccuracy by setting it to the number that correlates to 2".
I'm certain that the other LLS share this issue but those sensors are tied into automation and keep levels in a certain range so they're not that big a deal.
If I were to do it all over again, I wouldn't have listened to those influencers that said these were game changers and stuck with the traditional swing arm float switches.
I reread my post. Sorry for the typos.I have the optical sensors with the mounts on them already, they seem to work well but none are in my display tank.
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Magnetic Optical Sensor (MOS) - Neptune Systems
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I have one at the bottom of my saltwater mixing station, one at the bottom of my kalkwasser bin, one at the bottom of my RODI water bin. Those are all so I don't run out.
I also have one at the top of my RODI water bin so I get notified if the float valve gets stuck and doesn't shut off the RODI before I manually turn it off. (I like to run the RODI in long stretches instead of short bursts to extend membrane life)
Finally, I have one at the top of my skimmer cup so it doesn't overflow, one in my sump below the sensor on the ATK so I'll know if too much water has evaporated and the ATK isn't refilling, and the last one above the top optical sensor on the ATK to notify me of overfilling.
I've considered the LLS for the saltwater mixing bin and RODI bin so I don't have to keep checking them. You have me intrigued more now. lol
Take out the set onI REALLY want to make sure I have this right, appreciate everyone's help!
I would add this code to both the DOS_ADD and DOS_REMOVE pumps.
Fallback OFF
Set ON
If SaltLo OPEN then OFF
The optical sensor name is SaltLo and submerged (CLOSED) until the Brute can runs low, then would be OPEN.
Would that be correct?

