So I've had this red headed solon wrasse for about a month. I ordered him online, and when I got him he didn't look good. He sat at the bottom of qt for two days without moving. Then he began swimming around about half the time and resting the other half. After about a week he seemed healthy enough to me (was eating well and I thought with the extra space he'd start swimming). But he still rests on the bottom of the tank most of the time; he only comes out to eat. I'm not familiar with wrasse movement but his swimming pattern looks very labored to me. His stomach looked a bit pinched so I fed him more, now his stomach seems fine but his behavior continues on. Ammonia/nitrites are 0, salinity is 1.025, ph is 8, and nitrates are 20. Please tell me if this is normal wrasse behavior or not, because I feel like it's not. My tank is 50 gal. Tanks mates are a flame angel, pair of clowns, and a dwarf eel.
Strange Solon Wrasse Behavior
- Thread starter Jaquelyn
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ZoaCollector
Aquatic Specialist
Could be air bladder infection, it definitely sounds like something internal.
You could possibly cure it but it's a long process.
The medication I would use is kanaplex and its readily absorbed through the skin. It can be harsh on their liver so be careful how much you dose. If he's eating that means you have time to cure him.
Treat him in a qt*
You could possibly cure it but it's a long process.
The medication I would use is kanaplex and its readily absorbed through the skin. It can be harsh on their liver so be careful how much you dose. If he's eating that means you have time to cure him.
Treat him in a qt*
Not normal for a solon wrasse. When healthy, they swim all over all day long. I would do a freshwater dip to check for flukes. See @Humblefish for details.
^^I would add API General Cure to this to also treat for flukes/intestinal worms, as the OP mentioned a pinched stomach. Or you can just add metronidazole if flukes are ruled out by way of FW dip (see below):
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Setting up a QT tank for him now, and I'll dip him to see if he has flukes or not. From what research I did, swim bladder disease does seem to occur often in wrasses, and he does have a bit of a hunchback when he swims. I've been feeding him peas last night and this morning because I heard it could help, and I figured it couldn't hurt. It seems like he's swimming more, but it's probably just because I'm in front of the tank and that's when he comes out. Thanks everyone, and I'll keep you posted
Yes; you can also combine Kanaplex & metro/prazi with Furan-2 down the road if you find Furan by itself just isn't getting the job done.
So I managed to catch the little guy yesterday, tested for flukes but didn't see any. I've also been watching the other fish closely and they seem to be acting normally. I put him into qt with furan-2 and prazi. He doesn't seem to like it very much, hasn't swam at all, and although I didn't see him eat, the food that sank to the bottom disappeared later so he could have eaten it. If I follow the treatment as stated on the box and he doesn't recover, any other suggestions?
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When he does swim, does it tend to be in a vertical fashion? And if so, is the head down or up?
If it's mostly with the head up, than a spinal injury is a very high probability here.
If it's mostly with the head up, than a spinal injury is a very high probability here.
I had a yellow choris once with a back injury. Over time it healed and she was as good as new. Took over a month though. (It jumped and hit a light. Pre mesh covers.)
yeah, he's not swimming right now but I tried to find pics that represent the curve in his spine. He'll either swim like the dolphin pic with his head higher than his tail, or he'll swim with a curve in the middle of his back like the curved line pic. It's about to those degrees. When I first got him he didn't even sit upright on the bottom, he just laid on his side and I honestly didn't think he'd last the day.
Oh, I hope he gets better with treatment. They are such great fish.
melypr1985
totally addicted
I'm sorry for your loss. 
It's been my experience if you don't have substrate, wrasses feel stressed. They will lay on the bottom or up against a rock to sleep. He should be swimming around though more once he's comfortable. If not, that's not normal.
Ohh man, sorry to hear that. I think the stress combined with infection is probably what did it. Wrasses are pretty hardy so it had to be more than stress alone IMO.
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Cirrhilabrus wrasses do not need a sandbed.
Everything you describe sounds like a spinal injury.
I'm sorry for the loss.
Everything you describe sounds like a spinal injury.
I'm sorry for the loss.
Duke4Life
Just a crazy eel guy, LMAS
Don't doubt yourself and what you tried, it just wasn't meant to be for some reason.
Cirrhilabrus wrasses do not need a sandbed.
Everything you describe sounds like a spinal injury.
I'm sorry for the loss.
How many other wrasse's don't require a Sandbed?
Flasher wrasses don't need sand, either. They (and the fairies) sleep in a mucous cocoon in crevices and holes in the liverock. (Kind of the way parrotfish do . . . )
Jaquelin, I'm sorry to hear of your loss - Solons are beautiful wrasses, and fairies are charming - I hope you try again!
~Bruce
Jaquelin, I'm sorry to hear of your loss - Solons are beautiful wrasses, and fairies are charming - I hope you try again!
~Bruce
