Ok, two weeks ago I rebuild my sump. Upon hooking everything back up to the display tank, t everything started dying. I immediately though something was wrong with the water. I pulled most of my live stock and put into buckets. After several tests over a week. Everything was perfect. Even had someone with another brand testing kit test it. No problems. So I slowly introduced them back into the water. My zoas won't open, my mushrooms won't fully open. My Kenya tree and two curley q anemones died. I can't find any snails other than two that are dead on top of the sand. The shrimp did not seem phased by any of it, and my clowns seem to randomly spaz out. One day I went to feed them and zap...a slight shock. Of course I had to touch it a few times to be sure, but yes it was shocking me. I added new power heads and return pump to the sump. So I figured it has to be one of these components. Well tested the water and was getting readings at times of up to 80 volts running through the water. So I started un plugging items one at a time. Each item dropped the voltage about 2 volts... in the end there were no components plugged in, but im still reading 60+ volts in the water. So I tried the titanium ground rod.... mind you, no component plugged in. As soon as the ground rod hits the water it jumps to just over 100 volts. And the fish spaz. Take it out, back down to 60. I have no clue how to get rid of this voltage and prevent it. My tank had been ruining for close to nine months with no issues prior to this. Everything was looking amazing. I need help. Any ideas would help
Stray voltage help
- Thread starter newbreefer
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reefpeeper
Valuable Member
so 60 volts with nothing plugged in at all?
newbreefer
Community Member
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I though it was weird as well...so I thought maybe a short in the outlet itself to where the ground rod may be getting power instead of actually grounding it...no issues with the outlet... it is really baffling me.
jaguars4263
Active Member
I just found this online.This could be the next major headline in the nation’s newspapers, and it could be you that dies.
I’m talking about placing your hands in your aquarium and getting electrocuted. All because you failed to install $15 worth of equipment. Not only you, but the $1,000 you spent on livestock over the past year would be fried too. Besides laying dead next to your tank, your aquarium will turn into black soup within hours. Both you and your aquarium will smell pretty bad.
Aquarium water needs to be grounded. Saltwater is about as conductive as copper wires, and any stray voltage needs to be sent to ground where it will do no harm. Stray voltages are generated from lots of things. When a powerhead or pump motor spins it creates a magnetic field that induces AC voltages in the water. Likewise, ballasts that drive your light bulbs located within a few feet of the tank generate tremendous amounts of stray voltage. I’ve measured stray voltages as high as 46 volts in ungrounded aquariums. While this alone won’t kill you, you will get quite a jolt the minute you touch the water. Lots of research has been done that indicates stray voltages cause LLE (Lateral Line Erosion) in marine fishes, Hole-in-the-Head disease in fresh water fish, and bleach spots in SPS corals.
While stray voltages won’t kill you, equipment malfunctions will. Take any standard glass aquarium heater. Due to its age (are you still using that heater you bought in 1998?) or impacts over its lifetime, or a myriad of other failure mechanisms, heaters will develop hairline cracks in their glass casing. When this happens, minute drops of saltwater is forced into the heater. This is because even at a depth of 6-inches, water exerts pressure on an air-filled heater, forcing water through the tiny crack. Eventually, enough moisture gets in where the hot side of the AC line is conducting current to the neutral side. A ground probe won’t save you. While some current will be diverted to ground, current is freely flowing inside the heater, perhaps several amps and charging the surrounding water. When you put your hand in the tank, you present a better ground path and the current goes through you. Your spouse will either find you dead or dying in front of your precious aquarium.
You need to eliminate yourself from ever being part of the ground loop, and the easiest and cheapest way to do this is to install a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) outlet. These sell for about $10 at Home Depot. You can buy the kind that replaces your existing wall outlet or ones that are built-in to an extension cord. Either one works. The point is,
An aquarium ground probe won’t protect you from electrocution. You must have BOTH a ground probe and a GFCI.
Here’s a real life story. A few months ago I woke up to find one of my tanks, a 20 gallon setup, dark and quiet. It had lost power. I checked the powerstrip and the pilot light was off but it was plugged into the wall. I quickly realized that the GFCI Outlet had tripped. I pushed the reset button on the outlet to restore power and it wouldn’t stay in. I figured the GFCI outlet had crapped out. I ran an extension cord over to the tank from a regular (non-GFCI) outlet and plugged the powerstrip in. Viola! The lights came on, the pumps started up, and everything was fine.
Being an electrical engineer, I was very curious about the defective GFCI outlet. I plugged everything back in to the GFCI and then started unplugging each cord one at a time. When I got to a Maxi-Jet 1200, the GFCI stopped tripping. I plugged the Maxi-Jet back in and sure enough, it tripped again and killed the power. I grabbed my voltmeter and put one probe in the water and the other to ground. I plugged the tank back in and read 114 volts. Holy ****- If I had put my hands in the tank, I wouldn’t be writing this at all. Or maybe doing so from the intensive care ward. No doubt that I would have been electrocuted if it wasn’t for that GFCI outlet.
I figure that the powerhead must have gotten a crack in its epoxy coating, or perhaps it was there from day 1 and it took 6 months for seawater to slowly leak in. Whatever the reason, the ground probe alone would not have prevented my demise. As long as the current flow through the ground probe stays below 15 amps, the service panel breaker in your house will never trip. And all it takes is 100 milliamps (1/10th of an amp) to stop your heart. No matter what the odds, is your life worth a $20 powerhead?
I don’t know how else to convince you how important this is to do. You need to do it TODAY. If you don’t give a **** about yourself, don’t take a risk electrocuting one of your kids or your spouse. Install a GFCI and a ground probe on EVERY tank in your house no matter how small. If you don’t, the next time you put your hands in your tank may be the last.
I’m talking about placing your hands in your aquarium and getting electrocuted. All because you failed to install $15 worth of equipment. Not only you, but the $1,000 you spent on livestock over the past year would be fried too. Besides laying dead next to your tank, your aquarium will turn into black soup within hours. Both you and your aquarium will smell pretty bad.
Aquarium water needs to be grounded. Saltwater is about as conductive as copper wires, and any stray voltage needs to be sent to ground where it will do no harm. Stray voltages are generated from lots of things. When a powerhead or pump motor spins it creates a magnetic field that induces AC voltages in the water. Likewise, ballasts that drive your light bulbs located within a few feet of the tank generate tremendous amounts of stray voltage. I’ve measured stray voltages as high as 46 volts in ungrounded aquariums. While this alone won’t kill you, you will get quite a jolt the minute you touch the water. Lots of research has been done that indicates stray voltages cause LLE (Lateral Line Erosion) in marine fishes, Hole-in-the-Head disease in fresh water fish, and bleach spots in SPS corals.
While stray voltages won’t kill you, equipment malfunctions will. Take any standard glass aquarium heater. Due to its age (are you still using that heater you bought in 1998?) or impacts over its lifetime, or a myriad of other failure mechanisms, heaters will develop hairline cracks in their glass casing. When this happens, minute drops of saltwater is forced into the heater. This is because even at a depth of 6-inches, water exerts pressure on an air-filled heater, forcing water through the tiny crack. Eventually, enough moisture gets in where the hot side of the AC line is conducting current to the neutral side. A ground probe won’t save you. While some current will be diverted to ground, current is freely flowing inside the heater, perhaps several amps and charging the surrounding water. When you put your hand in the tank, you present a better ground path and the current goes through you. Your spouse will either find you dead or dying in front of your precious aquarium.
You need to eliminate yourself from ever being part of the ground loop, and the easiest and cheapest way to do this is to install a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) outlet. These sell for about $10 at Home Depot. You can buy the kind that replaces your existing wall outlet or ones that are built-in to an extension cord. Either one works. The point is,
An aquarium ground probe won’t protect you from electrocution. You must have BOTH a ground probe and a GFCI.
Here’s a real life story. A few months ago I woke up to find one of my tanks, a 20 gallon setup, dark and quiet. It had lost power. I checked the powerstrip and the pilot light was off but it was plugged into the wall. I quickly realized that the GFCI Outlet had tripped. I pushed the reset button on the outlet to restore power and it wouldn’t stay in. I figured the GFCI outlet had crapped out. I ran an extension cord over to the tank from a regular (non-GFCI) outlet and plugged the powerstrip in. Viola! The lights came on, the pumps started up, and everything was fine.
Being an electrical engineer, I was very curious about the defective GFCI outlet. I plugged everything back in to the GFCI and then started unplugging each cord one at a time. When I got to a Maxi-Jet 1200, the GFCI stopped tripping. I plugged the Maxi-Jet back in and sure enough, it tripped again and killed the power. I grabbed my voltmeter and put one probe in the water and the other to ground. I plugged the tank back in and read 114 volts. Holy ****- If I had put my hands in the tank, I wouldn’t be writing this at all. Or maybe doing so from the intensive care ward. No doubt that I would have been electrocuted if it wasn’t for that GFCI outlet.
I figure that the powerhead must have gotten a crack in its epoxy coating, or perhaps it was there from day 1 and it took 6 months for seawater to slowly leak in. Whatever the reason, the ground probe alone would not have prevented my demise. As long as the current flow through the ground probe stays below 15 amps, the service panel breaker in your house will never trip. And all it takes is 100 milliamps (1/10th of an amp) to stop your heart. No matter what the odds, is your life worth a $20 powerhead?
I don’t know how else to convince you how important this is to do. You need to do it TODAY. If you don’t give a **** about yourself, don’t take a risk electrocuting one of your kids or your spouse. Install a GFCI and a ground probe on EVERY tank in your house no matter how small. If you don’t, the next time you put your hands in your tank may be the last.
inurocker
Active Member
During the rebuild could saltwater have split creating a pathway in some way? If you unplugged everything at the wall their has to be a pathway. You didn't mention what the flooring in the tank area is.
