Stray Voltage

CoralClark

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I am testing my system for stray voltage. with everything running including the heaters im getting 32v on the meter. when the heaters go off it drops down into the 20s. with everything shut down, unplugged, and pulled out of the water im still getting 17v on my meter! How is this possible? I am checking for stray voltage because im getting erratic fish behavior just in case anyone is wondering. Thanks to everyone ahead of time.
 
cheap voltmeter? or low battery? New volt meters, even good ones give irradic readings wwhen the battery gets low.
 
battery is good just put them in. i have a digital chraftsman i borrowed from a friend pretty sure he paid almost $100 for it. getting 120v straight out of the outlets also
 
how are you testing both leads into water or one in water one on ground?
 
is the meter a auto rangeing meter or do you have to turn dials?
 
um not to familiar with volt meters he just showed me how to use it. but it does have a turn dial on it
 
i have a float switch in the sump yes but i pulled that out also while i was testing.
 
Pulling probes out too?
Flourescent lights can sometimes induce voltage in a tank. Voltage is just a measurement of difference of potential, usually you will get a small difference in an ungrounded tank but not that big. I don't know about the quality of a craftsman voltmeter, no experience there.
 
I posted this earlier, but it might help you.

If your using a digital multi-meter, it is not uncommon to read induced voltages of tens (20,30 even 40) of volts between water and ground. Everything you unplug may drop this reading a little or not change it at all. This can be confusing and doesn't indicate any problem whatsoever.


I have found the simplest most reliable method is to use a simple 100-600v AC Voltage Detector. These are those devices that have a probe tip that you place in proximity to a conductor and it will chirp and/or flash if there is an AC voltage present.


(one I use - EXTECH 40130 - $10)

Turn it on, put the probe tip against the glass/plexiglass of your tank - if it chirps/flashes you have a voltage leak. If it doesn't - you don't have a problem.

Make sure you test when everything is actually running. Chillers are notorious for causing voltages in tanks that you won't find until the chiller actually kicks on.

These AC voltage detectors are cheap ($8-$12 range). You can get them at any hardware store or Frys etc. and in my experience, they are 100% accurate at determining if you have a true voltage problem.

So much simpler than the multi-meter method.
 
I posted this earlier, but it might help you.

If your using a digital multi-meter, it is not uncommon to read induced voltages of tens (20,30 even 40) of volts between water and ground. Everything you unplug may drop this reading a little or not change it at all. This can be confusing and doesn't indicate any problem whatsoever.


I have found the simplest most reliable method is to use a simple 100-600v AC Voltage Detector. These are those devices that have a probe tip that you place in proximity to a conductor and it will chirp and/or flash if there is an AC voltage present.


(one I use - EXTECH 40130 - $10)

Turn it on, put the probe tip against the glass/plexiglass of your tank - if it chirps/flashes you have a voltage leak. If it doesn't - you don't have a problem.

Make sure you test when everything is actually running. Chillers are notorious for causing voltages in tanks that you won't find until the chiller actually kicks on.

These AC voltage detectors are cheap ($8-$12 range). You can get them at any hardware store or Frys etc. and in my experience, they are 100% accurate at determining if you have a true voltage problem.

So much simpler than the multi-meter method.

Thanks I think I'll go pick one of those up in the morning when I get off work. I am almost positive I have a stray voltage problem, like I said my fish are acting very erratic
 
I posted this earlier, but it might help you.

If your using a digital multi-meter, it is not uncommon to read induced voltages of tens (20,30 even 40) of volts between water and ground. Everything you unplug may drop this reading a little or not change it at all. This can be confusing and doesn't indicate any problem whatsoever.


I have found the simplest most reliable method is to use a simple 100-600v AC Voltage Detector. These are those devices that have a probe tip that you place in proximity to a conductor and it will chirp and/or flash if there is an AC voltage present.


(one I use - EXTECH 40130 - $10)

Turn it on, put the probe tip against the glass/plexiglass of your tank - if it chirps/flashes you have a voltage leak. If it doesn't - you don't have a problem.

Make sure you test when everything is actually running. Chillers are notorious for causing voltages in tanks that you won't find until the chiller actually kicks on.

These AC voltage detectors are cheap ($8-$12 range). You can get them at any hardware store or Frys etc. and in my experience, they are 100% accurate at determining if you have a true voltage problem.

So much simpler than the multi-meter method.

While it is true that if the detector goes off there is no doubt that you have a stray voltage issue most of them are only sensitive down to 50 or so volts and some of the cheaper ones are even higher than that. It is possible, depending on the source, to have a stray voltage on the tank that doesn't set off the detector.
 
Does it matter really. Either way you should go buy a grounding probe and be done with it. Unless your going to take ever piece of equipment out of your tank and isolate it to see if it is putting out stray voltage. Then what happens if it turns out to be your 400 dollar pump. Are you going to dump it? Just saying either way just save yourself time and spend 25 on the probe and be done.
 
Does it matter really. Either way you should go buy a grounding probe and be done with it. Unless your going to take ever piece of equipment out of your tank and isolate it to see if it is putting out stray voltage. Then what happens if it turns out to be your 400 dollar pump. Are you going to dump it? Just saying either way just save yourself time and spend 25 on the probe and be done.

I agree, get a grounding probe in the tank. If there is an issue with a piece of equipment, if properly grounded, the breaker will trip.

Shut everything off when installing the probe.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
 
"While it is true that if the detector goes off there is no doubt that you have a stray voltage issue most of them are only sensitive down to 50 or so volts and some of the cheaper ones are even higher than that. It is possible, depending on the source, to have a stray voltage on the tank that doesn't set off the detector."

Voltage really isn't the issue - current is. If you have any submerged electric fixture in your system, then in proximity to the wires leading to that fixture, you'll have an measurable electric potential, which decreases rapidly with distance from the insulated conductor. So you have a voltage source, but due to the insulation (resistance), that voltage source can't source any current, and the field strength in the water will drop off very quickly with distance.

Put a nick or break in the insulation, remove the resistance which exists between the conductor to the water, and the water will conduct current through the water column and the whole body of water becomes a conductor which carries with it the full electric potential, 120 V. If you use AC voltage sources less than 120V, with sufficiently low internal resistance and these sources come into contact with the water - then yes - the AC voltage detector shown might not catch these.

I don't have any such AC voltage sources in my system and I'm not aware of any in typical use in reef systems. I'm not saying there aren't any - just I've never encountered one, and hence, have never seen a true, low impedance fault less than 100V.

I would not ever recommend a grounding probe without a Ground fault interrupter circuit.

A GFI circuit compares the current flowing on the hot side of the AC outlet with the current flow on the neutral side of the AC outlet. If there is even a small difference in current between the hot and neutral, the GFI will open the circuit. If you have a voltage in your tank the ground probe will send this current to the third prong on the AC outlet - not the neutral. Since this current is coming from the hot-side and is being returned on the third prong (safety ground) there will be a current difference between the hot and neutral and the GFI should trip. If you don't have a third prong, you can still use a GFI. Tie the third leg (safety ground) to line neutral. Any current shunted to any other ground (through your wet feet on the floor for instance) will cause a current differential and will trip the GFI.

If you don't have a GFI on the outlet, you won't be protected by a ground probe. It is very likely to cause more damage than good. Adding a ground probe to a non-CGI circuit guarantees that any voltage in the tank also produces a current and its that current which is damaging to the tank inhabitants. That current may be significant yet not be enough to trip your breaker. Ask yourself, have you ever seen a power strip burn before it trips the breaker? I have - quite frequently.

 
Last edited:
I posted this earlier, but it might help you.

If your using a digital multi-meter, it is not uncommon to read induced voltages of tens (20,30 even 40) of volts between water and ground. Everything you unplug may drop this reading a little or not change it at all. This can be confusing and doesn't indicate any problem whatsoever.


I have found the simplest most reliable method is to use a simple 100-600v AC Voltage Detector. These are those devices that have a probe tip that you place in proximity to a conductor and it will chirp and/or flash if there is an AC voltage present.


(one I use - EXTECH 40130 - $10)

Turn it on, put the probe tip against the glass/plexiglass of your tank - if it chirps/flashes you have a voltage leak. If it doesn't - you don't have a problem.

Make sure you test when everything is actually running. Chillers are notorious for causing voltages in tanks that you won't find until the chiller actually kicks on.

These AC voltage detectors are cheap ($8-$12 range). You can get them at any hardware store or Frys etc. and in my experience, they are 100% accurate at determining if you have a true voltage problem.

So much simpler than the multi-meter method.
this tester will give false readings around ballast and the brand you show has a bad rep get fluke or greenlee their multi meters are ok
 
If your lights sit on tip of the tank, did you also shut-off / unplugged them during your testing?
 

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