Stray Voltage

[danenelsen]

Hello,

I went to Dallas Aquashella yesterday and started taking to one of the vendors there. None of my invertebrates have survived in my tank. I've tried a conch, starfish, zombie snails, and a Mexican turbo snail, all of which died within 12 hours of being placed in the tank. The vendor suggested stray voltage and so today I used a multimeter to test for the volts in my aquarium. There were 4 volts in total, 1 from the wavemaker, 1 from the ATO, 1, from the return pump, and 1 from the other things. Is this what is killing my inverts?

 

[Reefering1]

How exactly did you use the multimeter to check this, where did you put each lead?

 

[ptrick21186]

If stray voltage is something you're worried about you can get a titanium grounding probe for your tank for about $15 on Amazon

 

[danenelsen]

How exactly did you use the multimeter to check this, where did you put each lead?

The negative went into the ground in a wall socket. The positive went into the water in the tank.

 

[Reefering1]

That's correct, I wouldn't be worried about 4 volts. But as the other guy said, titanium grounding probe is the way to go. Never worry about it again. Just make sure it stays in the water

 

[bushdoc]

In addition to stray voltage, I would also test for copper and ,maybe salinity as those ,especially copper are much common causes of invertebrates demise.

 

[Reefer Matt Verified Media Partner]

I highly suggest putting your tank on a gfci circuit if it is not already, when using a ground probe. In the event of a short, the probe will allow a ground path and electrify your tank. I explain this in the following video...

 

[Cichlid Dad]

If stray voltage is something you're worried about you can get a titanium grounding probe for your tank for about $15 on Amazon

Thank you, never heard of it, just bought one

 

[ptrick21186]

I highly suggest putting your tank on a gfci circuit if it is not already, when using a ground probe. In the event of a short, the probe will allow a ground path and electrify your tank. I explain this in the following video...

Yes. Forgot to mention this. Make sure you have your tank plugged into a GFCI.

 

[JasonG1]

I happened across this topic and am so glad to learn about this. I wondered why my hangnails stung/shocked when I touched the very tip of my wet fingers onto the tank water surface. No it's not the salt...it's a little shock that seems to exhibit pain on cuts/wounds more harshly.

I grabbed by multi-meter, set it to AC Auto, put the black probe into the ground hole on my plug strip, and the red probe into the water. I registered 4.1 volts. I then proceeded to unplug each piece of equipment to see where it's coming from. Note all this equipment is less than 6 weeks old (new setup). Here's what I got:

American Marine Pinpoint pH Monitor = 1.4 volts (makes sense that this would introduce some voltage with how the probe works
AI Nero 3 Powerhead (2000 GPH) = 1.2 volts
Innovative Marine Fusion Pro 2 40 AIO pump = 0.25 volts

AI Prime HD 16 = 0
Helio Heater = 0 (was not heating when measured so may introduce some voltage when heating)
Tank Stand LED lights = 0
Tunze Osmolator ATO = 0 (both when pumping and not pumping)

I ordered the Rio RV2735 Rid-Volt Titanium Grounding Probe from Amazon for $15 (comes today)
I also ordered a GFCI to install in the outlet behind the tank = (Leviton GFNL2-W Self-test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Tamper-Resistant Receptacle with Guidelight and LED Indicator, 20-Amp, White). I might need to drop this to a 15 AMP and need to check the breaker for this. I accidentally ordered the 20 and the breaker/wiring might only support 15.

Jason

 

[redfishbluefish]

I doubt 4 volts are your problem. Two kinds of voltage...stray and induced. Simply put, induced voltage is from spinning things...like pumps. It generates voltage that has very minimal amps, so most likely not a problem. If it were me, many inverts don't accept rapid salinity changes very well and I'd look at how you acclimate the inverts to your tank's salinity.

 

[ReeferMonkey]

its worth noting that invertabrates are hyper sensative to salinity changes and a Very slow acclimation when introduced is recommended...

 

[Reefering1]

I wouldn't worry about having a 20a receptacle(I believe they all are) it's the breaker that protects the wiring. Gfci trips when current returns on ground instead of nuetral(ground fault circuit interrupter)

 

[JasonG1]

I wouldn't worry about having a 20a receptacle(I believe they all are) it's the breaker that protects the wiring. Gfci trips when current returns on ground instead of nuetral(ground fault circuit interrupter)

Thanks for that! I feel better about using it and that makes perfect sense

 

[redfishbluefish]

I wouldn't worry about having a 20a receptacle(I believe they all are) it's the breaker that protects the wiring............

I just wanted to clarify.....the majority of household outlets are 15 amp / 14 gauge wire (bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms, etc). "Specialty" outlets such as bathroom, kitchen, etc will be 20 amp / 12 gauge wire. You can use a 15-amp outlet with a 20 amp circuit, but never a 20-amp outlet with a 15-amp rated circuit. You have a potential issue with electrical load being too great.

 

[Reefering1]

I just wanted to clarify.....the majority of household outlets are 15 amp / 14 gauge wire (bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms, etc). "Specialty" outlets such as bathroom, kitchen, etc will be 20 amp / 12 gauge wire. You can use a 15-amp outlet with a 20 amp circuit, but never a 20-amp outlet with a 15-amp rated circuit. You have a potential issue with electrical load being too great. Just because the outlet can handle more doesn't mean you can load more(I think this is your point, which I ruled agree)

I believe you got that backwards or I'm not understanding your logic. I agree that you can't load 20a on a 15a circuit as the 14 gauge wire and breaker aren't designed to sustain that load. But what difference does the outlet make? Just because the outlet can handle more load doesn't mean it dictates the load.. in other words, what difference does it make if you pass 10a through a 20a receptacle on a 15a circuit vs a 15a receptacle on the same circuit? For example if I wanted to put a 20a gfci in my bedroom (14/2 romex/15a breaker), as long as I respect the 15a breaker(that should trip if load exceeds 15a), where/ how is this a issue? Excuse my ignorance, its been some years since I was in the field...

 

[Reefering1]

I agree that you can't up the load just because the outlet can handle more

 

[redfishbluefish]

I believe you got that backwards or I'm not understanding your logic. I agree that you can't load 20a on a 15a circuit as the 14 gauge wire and breaker aren't designed to sustain that load. But what difference does the outlet make? Just because the outlet can handle more load doesn't mean it dictates the load.. in other words, what difference does it make if you pass 10a through a 20a receptacle on a 15a circuit vs a 15a receptacle on the same circuit? For example if I wanted to put a 20a gfci in my bedroom (14/2 romex/15a breaker), as long as I respect the 15a breaker(that should trip if load exceeds 15a), where/ how is this a issue? Excuse my ignorance, its been some years since I was in the field...

According to National Electrical Code, only a 15-amp or 20-amp electrical receptacle can be installed to a 20-amp circuit. A 15-amp receptacle may also be installed on a 15-amp circuit. However, a 20-amp GFCI outlet may not be installed to a 15-amp circuit.