Struggling Corals

Aminos are good, calc level in good range. Mag can be at 1350 and PH should be in range of 8.0-8.3. if lower not an issue as Long as it is stable. Also do look with reading glasses or magnifier for any weird pest or bugs

Looked last night at irritated zoos w magnifying lenses, did not see anything but pods.

J
 
Looked last night at irritated zoos w magnifying lenses, did not see anything but pods.

J

I wrote earlier about another poster with good parameters and slow decline after switching to fritz from reef crystals.
@Jason Collins is that poster. Maybe you guys can share notes.

Both systems are running pretty much by the book. I am out of ideas. Good luck folks.
 
I was struggling to get neutrients up as I only have 3 fish and only fed light. Now i just sort of feed once or twice a day and have my phosphates about 0.02 and need to get them up more, the corals do seem happier now I feed a little heavier though. I use natural sea water for water changes that's why my kh is around 7.7.
I do get a brown/red film on the glass within a day, which I believe is down to feeding.
 
Hey Everyone,

I am hoping to get some help with some struggling corals. I have been in this hobby for quite a while now and my nuvo 25 has been a perplexing experience to say the least. Lets start with the parameters.

PH 8.15-8.43 daily swing
Alk 8.7
Cal 455
Mag 1425
p04 .04
no3 5-6 ppm

I have numerous corals and they had been doing quite well for some time. Over the past 2 weeks, all LPS (except for 2 acans and two blastos) have been acting up. My two montis have bleached and 2 zoas have begun to show signs of stress. Grow has seemingly stagnated. I simply don't know what to do, nor can I seem to identify any potential causes. I've thrown away my selcon and polyp booster because they were older and I thought maybe they were poisoning my tank. My fish are happy and healthy, so no signs of stress there. My inverts are good too. I sent an ICP test out yesterday. I looked last night after dark to see if I could spot parasites. I saw a ton of pods running everywhere, and one white worm on a zoa (a zoa colony that is actually not struggling). Any thoughts or suggestions would be so appreciated!

Thanks,
Jake
Jake,

Hello. In my experience when corals have tissue loss it is almost always due to infection by RTN parasites. Here is a website with more info www.coralrtn.com
 
Okay. The reason I asked about Fritz, is that I recently had switched over to Fritz blue box and had major issues with my Monty's paling. Definitely not saying that the salt is causing the problem.

Do you dip your corals?

Many people have had catastrophic results with Fritz. Just as many have had no problem.. I had massive problems, several friends had problems -- we don't know why at all -- switching out fritz was a game changer for all of us.
 
Many people have had catastrophic results with Fritz. Just as many have had no problem.. I had massive problems, several friends had problems -- we don't know why at all -- switching out fritz was a game changer for all of us.

I am going to change salts...it's all I can point to as of now. I got my ICP results back and it leaves me even more puzzled...
 

Attachments

How long have you been using Fritz?
I switched over to Fritz, and it nuked my tank. Alk was WILDLY off between first and second batches, causing a massive swing that killed everything. Will never recommend or use fritz again, terrible quality control. Learned a lesson with not testing new batches of salt, though.
 
So interesting, I did a 2 gallon WC w new salt yesterday evening. Many corals look significantly happier today. Still not good, and results obviously don't happen that fast. But my lps that wasn't bleached yet was very "Stony" looking now looks quite "fluffy" and happy.

Time will tell.

Jake
 
Can I ask what lighting you are running and what PAR meter you rented? I ask because I only recently learned that the MQ-210 I have requires a correction factor to get accurate readings from my LEDs. The measurement taken at the unit was substantially below what the actual light output was.
 
Can I ask what lighting you are running and what PAR meter you rented? I ask because I only recently learned that the MQ-210 I have requires a correction factor to get accurate readings from my LEDs. The measurement taken at the unit was substantially below what the actual light output was.

I rented one from brs that came pre calibrated....I'll find the name very soon!
 
Another 2 gallon WC and everything continues to look better. I think I started just in time because some things were on the brink of death. So odd that all the parameters are the same and the only change is the salt. I'll post pictures soon!

J
 
What was your old salt and is that what you went back to?

I was using IO when I started this tank 2 years ago(from LFS, mixed to 1.022, which was a problem). I then switched to Fritz about 1.5 years ago and for months it was okay. My tank crashed in January with symptoms quite similar to what I am experiencing now. I rebooted with water changes using Red Sea salt (not knowing that it could have been fritz, just had some red sea buckets). Once the Red Sea salt ran out I went back to Fritz because it was inline with my desired numbers.

I successfully kept beautiful reef tanks a few years ago with IORC and Red Sea Coral Pro. I decided to go to basic IO RC.

Thanks,
J
 
Parameters as of last night:

Kh 9.5
Cal 455
Mag 1430
P04 .03
No3 10 ppm

Thanks,
J
 
I would consider switching salts to Red Sea or something similar. I’ve seen a few nice tanks locally that have crashed out when they switch to Fritz.
 
I would recommend that you consider dipping everything regardless of any improvements. Not dipping new coral is truly asking for trouble. I've used pretty much every product out there over the years and would recommend that you take a look at the Prime Coral videos.
 

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