Struggling To Get Temperature Up.

[Dom]

Between the display and sump, one of my tanks has a total capacity of about 50 gallons. I heat the tank using a 300 watt Aqueon submersible heater. That comes to 6 watts per gallon.

The heater is connected to an STC-1000 temperature controller...

LINK:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Universal-St...-W-Sensor-AC-110v/2255998488?iid=111809176074

I'm trying to determine if the controller is misconfigured or if it has gone bad.

This is a link to the "manual":
https://www.homebrewbuilder.co.uk/stc1000 instructions.pdf

The F1 function is where temperature is set to 25 celsius, which is 77 degrees.

The F2 function is the difference value which is set to .5. This means temperature should range between 76.5 and 77.5.

The F3 function is compressor delay time and not used.

The F4 function is the temperature calibration value and has been set accordingly.

At the time of this post, the temp is 73.1 degrees.

I though about maxing out the temp on the heater itself, which is 88 degrees. But it is currently set at 78 degrees, and should still be coming on.

My goal is to get the temp to the 76-77 range.

Suggestions?

Thanks
Dom

 

[redfishbluefish]

Dom, you're right across the Arthur Kill from me....brutal day today with temperature. The air is on in my house and my tank is still at 80 degrees. How is your tank at 73?

Not familiar with that controller, but the biggest problem I see with individual temperature controllers is that the probe is not water proof....specifically saltwater proof. Are you certain you're tank is at 73? In the mean time I'll be reading the manual you linked.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Dumb question, but are you able to verify that the heater is even turning on? Can you put your hand near the heater and feel it giving off heat?

 

[redfishbluefish]

Just looked at the manual....that controller is rated for 220 volts. Not sure what it would do if ran at 110 volts.....which I'm assuming you're doing. I would guess this "pass through" voltage wouldn't make a difference, but let's have @Brew12 comment on running this below it's rated voltage to see what he has to say.

Also assuming you have poles 5 and 6 attached to an outlet box that the heater is plugged into.

 

[Lasse]

The F2 function is the difference value which is set to .5

Is that not plus - minus 0.5 degree Celsius? -> plus minus 0.9 degree F

The manual says 220 V but the picture at Ebay show 110 - 220 V

Have you connect one of the cords from the heater between 5 and 6? It looks like it is only a single pole switch if you understand what I mean. What I understand from the drawing of connection - you should connect your 0 cord directly to the power contact - your phase should go to 5 and then further to the power contact from 6. I´m no expert of US power systems - please @Brew12 - help the guy out



Sincerely Lasse

 

[redfishbluefish]

Good point @Lasse ....to make it more understandable (hopefully), the black wire is connected to poles 5 & 6 while the white wire runs directly to the outlet box. This controller is switching the power (the black "hot" wire) on and off to control the heater. I'm willing to bet this is the issue.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Here's a video that shows how to wire it up....same as an InkBird:

 

[Brew12]

Thanks for the invite guys, give me a few to dig into this!

 

[Brew12]

What I understand from the drawing of connection - you should connect your 0 cord directly to the power contact - your phase should go to 5 and then further to the power contact from 6.

Yup, I suspect this is what the problem is.

Here's a video that shows how to wire it up....same as an InkBird:

This video is nice! It does a good job of showing how it should be wired in.


The 110V/220V should not be an issue for this.

 

[Dom]

This is the temperature controller I've assembled. I've placed it in a waterproof project box for obvious reasons.

I removed the conductor between the upper and lower outlet, to create two separate outlets. I wired in power and then each side of the outlet; one for cooling (fan) and one for heat (heater).

I did jack up the temp 1 degree Celsius to try and get the temp up a bit more. As you can see from the pic, the heat indicator has come on and my heater is currently lit in the tank. I feel that the controller is functioning as intended, but will disassemble the box to double check. The problem appears to be that the controller doesn't stay on long enough to get the tank up to the desired temp.

How many watts per gallon is recommended for heating?

 

[Dom]

Dom, you're right across the Arthur Kill from me....brutal day today with temperature. The air is on in my house and my tank is still at 80 degrees. How is your tank at 73?

The central air is on in my house too. Currently, the room temperature is 71.2 degrees.

In winter months, this isn't an issue. I have another tank with an Eheim heater and no controller. That tank is at 78.2 degrees.

So some information suggests insufficient wattage in the heater and other info suggests the controller.

 

[Dom]

Dumb question, but are you able to verify that the heater is even turning on? Can you put your hand near the heater and feel it giving off heat?

Oh yes; the heater is definitely on. I am basing this on the heat radiating from the heater and not just on the fact that the indicator light is on.

 

[Dom]

Just looked at the manual....that controller is rated for 220 volts.

#@@@#%$#@ Good point!

When I purchased it on eBay, it said 110/220. But the manual states 220.

They have an upgraded version that does Fahrenheit/Celsius. I may buy that one and rebuild... as long as it is truly 110 rated.

 

[Dom]

Dumb question, but are you able to verify that the heater is even turning on? Can you put your hand near the heater and feel it giving off heat?

Wait a minute... didn't you just lecture me a short while ago about there not being any such thing as a dumb question?? LOL

 

[Dom]

Is that not plus - minus 0.5 degree Celsius? -> plus minus 0.9 degree F

Actually, I have it set to .3.

I understand it to mean that if the temp is set to 25C, and the temp climbs to 25.4C, the fan kicks on. If the temp drops to 24.6C, the heater kicks on.

Is that right?

 

[Crabs McJones]

Wait a minute... didn't you just lecture me a short while ago about there not being any such thing as a dumb question?? LOL

I don't know man my memory is slipping in my old age

 

[Lasse]

Actually, I have it set to .3.

I understand it to mean that if the temp is set to 25C, and the temp climbs to 25.4C, the fan kicks on. If the temp drops to 24.6C, the heater kicks on.

Is that right?

Yes.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[redfishbluefish]

I don't know man my memory is slipping in my old age

I just looked at your profile.... 29 ....
Twenty-nine ...in German, neunundzwanzig. All my three kids are older than that! What does that make me.....feeble?

 

[Crabs McJones]

Tree


I just looked at your profile.... 29 ....
Twenty-nine ...in German, neunundzwanzig. All my three kids are old than that! What does that make me.....feeble?

LOL! Well you know they say the mind is the first thing to go

 

[Brew12]

#@@@#%$#@ Good point!

When I purchased it on eBay, it said 110/220. But the manual states 220.

They have an upgraded version that does Fahrenheit/Celsius. I may buy that one and rebuild... as long as it is truly 110 rated.

If it wasn't rated for 110V it wouldn't be working. And, As Lasse pointed out earlier, that has no impact on the current or voltage of the heater.

I have a hard time with a 300W heater not being big enough for your system. I feel that should be plenty big.