reeffirstaid
Active Member
About 2 weeks ago, I removed my GFO reactor, and added a zeovit reactor. A few days later, I noticed thick black cyanobacteria in my tank. Knowing that cycling zeovit reactors can cause this, I let it go a few days, but it started getting out of control. I sucked the cyanobacteria out with a siphon, and tested my phosphate, with a Hanna Ultra Low range Phosphorous meter. It tested out at 57 ppb which is .17 ppm. I had some API Phos Zorb laying around, so I added that to a power filter and started running it. 12 hours later, the phosphorous meter read 21 ppb or .06 ppm. Since then it's bounced from that number, to the mid thirties, up to 79 ppb or .24 ppm.
I started dosing the zeovit reactor with Coral Snow and Zeo Zym, which seems to be clearing the cyanobacteria up. I tested my RODI water, which reads 0 on a TDS meter, with the phosphorous meter. It came out at 31 ppb or .09 phosphate. Can I trust this meter?
When I was running my GFO reactor, my phosphates rarely got above .02 ppm, with my old test kit. It's hard for me to believe that 0 TDS RODI water has that much phosphate in it. It's also hard for me to believe that phosphates keep getting worse, with double the amount of required Phos Zorb running on the tank.
Any ideas? How accurate are these Hanna meters?
I started dosing the zeovit reactor with Coral Snow and Zeo Zym, which seems to be clearing the cyanobacteria up. I tested my RODI water, which reads 0 on a TDS meter, with the phosphorous meter. It came out at 31 ppb or .09 phosphate. Can I trust this meter?
When I was running my GFO reactor, my phosphates rarely got above .02 ppm, with my old test kit. It's hard for me to believe that 0 TDS RODI water has that much phosphate in it. It's also hard for me to believe that phosphates keep getting worse, with double the amount of required Phos Zorb running on the tank.
Any ideas? How accurate are these Hanna meters?
