Stuck during cycling

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Alaa

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hi I'm new to saltwater tanks
have been trying to cycle my 40 G tank for 7 weeks now and I'm stuck, any help would be appreciated

40 G, 35 bound of dry rocks, BM curve 5 running in the sump, 2 wave maker on. 2 marine pure blocks and some bio balls in the sump

temp 80, pH 8.2-8.32, salinity 1024

i tried to use shrimp for one week to get the cycle running but with no luck so
on OCT 20th i added ammonia to raise the level 2ppm, and added Seachum stability for 1 week as per instructions.
ammonia level dropped to .5 but no nitrite or nitrate
so on 31 OCT i raised ammonia again but this time close to 4, on NOV 4th the level was 1 and still no nitrite or nitrate
up to 12th NOV it was the same ammonia 1 with zero nitrite and nitrates

so after taking so online advise on 13th NOV i added bacteria (nitribiotic) in a good dose i got bacterial bloom and the second day ammonia dropped to .25 and zero nitrite but i can read nitrate no around 5
on 15th i raised ammonia again to 1 ppm (the cloudy water was clearing out)
since then ammonia is not dropping stuck at 1 and zero nitrite and nitrate

since OCT 26th i can see pink coloring of the silicon lines in the sump with none in the DT, those are not easily removed but are covered with thin whitish soft layer that easy to remove
for about 5 days i can see blackish algae in the DT

black algae.jpeg


DT.jpeg


Pink lines.jpeg
 
Hi and Welcome to Reef2Reef
What brand of test kits are you using ?

For the pink stuff on the sump silicon , I made a little research about it and found the following "Rhodotorula. It's a yeast that is found in both freshwater and saltwater. It also has a very strong affinity for plastics. Likely why you're only seeing it on your vinyl tubing and cured silicone beads. Sometimes you'll see a pink tinge on the bottom of your shower when it needs to be cleaned, thats the same thing. It's generally non-pathogenic, it just grows there. It doesnt need light to live, and the reason it is only in your sump, is that it cannot tolerate the high intensity of light in your display tank. You could try an anti-fungal, or something like Pimafix. That might kill it off. (however, you might consider just leaving it, it does use nitrogen compounds at a higher rate than most other bacteria or fungi."
 
Welcome to Reef2reef. If your ammonia levels dropped I suspect nitrie was there. You may have a bad testing batch. You could take your water to a local fish to have a comparison. Most test the water for free
 
Welcome to the forum!! I would stop adding all that stuff to your tank and just give it time.. you can ghost feed every couple days to give bacteria food and your tank will eventually cycle. I agree with others check your test kit or try another.

4562BE61-0F5A-43C6-98F8-FCD32AB617F4.gif
 
Just get a bottle of ATM Colony or other bacteria in a bottle and throw it in, and that’s it the tank is cycled and your good to go as per the instructions

It’s 2018, and although there is nothing wrong with throwing in a dead shrimp, waiting 6 months, science and reefing has advanced somewhat.

And welcome to R2R by the way, it’s great to have you with us!

And great pictures by the way I like the aquascaping
 
Thank for all the replies
I use API master test kit but I'll try another one for assurance
I have decided to ignore the pink line for now as it seems harmless
Will look for bacteria in a bottle at LSF my next visit and make them test the water
 
api is known to throw false readings. get a seachem ammonia badge as it tests for free ammonia. stop adding stuff at this point. all you need is pure ammonia to cycle. however, i’d be inclined to think you’re tank is cycled at this point. to verify i would get a seachem badge then dose ammonia to 2-3ppm. if it drops to zero within 8-12 hours, then you’re cycled. forget about testing nitrites.
 
api is known to throw false readings. get a seachem ammonia badge as it tests for free ammonia. stop adding stuff at this point. all you need is pure ammonia to cycle. however, i’d be inclined to think you’re tank is cycled at this point. to verify i would get a seachem badge then dose ammonia to 2-3ppm. if it drops to zero within 8-12 hours, then you’re cycled. forget about testing nitrites.
Hi, i already have Seachum ammonia badge and unfortunately it confirms the reading from API test kit (it was on alarm when i dosed ammonia to 4 ppm then went down to safe after i added the bacteria then up to alert when i increased ammonia to1 ppm and stayed there since then almost 2 weeks now)
 
Hi, i already have Seachum ammonia badge and unfortunately it confirms the reading from API test kit (it was on alarm when i dosed ammonia to 4 ppm then went down to safe after i added the bacteria then up to alert when i increased ammonia to1 ppm and stayed there since then almost 2 weeks now)

could take a while at 1ppm. that’s why 2-3ppm is recommended. we’re talking about consistently maintaining ammonia at 2-3ppm.
 
Hello Alaa & welcome ! I'm afraid you just have to wait it out . Please no more additions.
R2rR is a great place for idea's, opinions & advice, even when it not what Ya wanted to hear . LOL
 
could take a while at 1ppm. that’s why 2-3ppm is recommended. we’re talking about consistently maintaining ammonia at 2-3ppm.
How long to you keep ammonia at those levels? I’m kind of in the same boat. I’m 5 weeks in and have 10ppm nitrates. No nitrites(had some readings for about 3 days.) then gone. But still showing ammonia levels of 2ish! Not really sure what to do at the point!
 
How long to you keep ammonia at those levels? I’m kind of in the same boat. I’m 5 weeks in and have 10ppm nitrates. No nitrites(had some readings for about 3 days.) then gone. But still showing ammonia levels of 2ish! Not really sure what to do at the point!
Hi i think you are nearly there having nitrates means you are almost cycled and just need to allow the bacterial population to be able and handle the ammonia load
When you get ammonia from 2 down to 0 in 24 hours you are good to go
I added bacteria which helped push the cycle when i was stuck
 

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