Stupid question about altering water parameters.

[Zionas]

Hi all, I realize this is a very stupid question, but I would like to know how to alter (increase / decrease) the following parameters for my tank:

1. Water Temperature

2. Salinity (Specific Gravity)

3. Nitrates (decrease)

4. pH

5. Alkalinity

6. Phosphates (PO4) (decrease)

7. Elements (Calcium, Strontium, Magnesium, Iodine)


Also, anything seasonal that I must watch out for? My tank will be 50/50 mix between softies and LPS corals, maybe some SPS but at least a year after my tank’s set up.

Thanks.

 

[SPR1968]

Hi all, I realize this is a very stupid question, but I would like to know how to alter (increase / decrease) the following parameters for my tank:

1. Water Temperature

2. Salinity (Specific Gravity)

3. Nitrates (decrease)

4. pH

5. Alkalinity

6. Phosphates (PO4) (decrease)

7. Elements (Calcium, Strontium, Magnesium, Iodine)


Also, anything seasonal that I must watch out for? My tank will be 50/50 mix between softies and LPS corals, maybe some SPS but at least a year after my tank’s set up.

Thanks.

Firstly no question is ‘stupid’ if you don’t know the answer, so now worries there

1. Get a heater and or chiller/fan to control temperature

2. If Salinity is low then mix some salt with RODI water at a higher than normal concentration and add it. If salinity is high then remove some saltwater and add some RODI. Alternatively the best way to do it is as part of water changes, by altering the salinity of the new saltwater either up or down.

3. Water changes is the simplest way, but other methods involve increasing biological filtration (Seachem Matrix for example) or carbon dosing like Nopox. Also a good skimmer

4. Leave pH alone is probably fine or ‘bad things’ may happen quickly

5. Alkalinity is maintained with an alkalinity supplement added according to uptake.

6. A good skimmer will help with phosphate removal, rowapho/GFO if required and water changes

7. Simply magnesium/calcium supplements and for trace elements something like Red Sea coral colours

just remember only add what’s needed after you confirm with a test

Also and very importantly ‘stability’ is the key of all parameters and not necessarily the number, as long as it’s within normal limits.

 

[PatW]

1) Having a controller really helps. To keep the tank warm, you need a heater. The problem is that most heaters have thermostats that are dirt cheap. So they fail with the heater “on”. The result is a cooked tank. I cool my tank by having my controller turn on fans that blow on the water surface in the sump but directly on the tank works too.

2) Salinity. If it is low, I add some salt water. When the salt water evaporates, the salt added will increase the salinity. This will do it gradually. My ATO keeps the tank at a pretty constant volume. If the salinity is too high, I remove some salt water and let the ATO dilute the tank. I do not adjust this much on any given day and because of the ATO, I never have to.

3) Nitrates. Dilution by water change will do it but if it is really high, it will take a bunch of big changes. I use macro algae in the sump and they keep the nitrates low by growing and pulling nitrates and phosphates out of the water as they do so. Another method is carbon dosing. The idea is you add alcohol or sugar and that makes bacteria grow in the tank and as they multiply they suck up nitrates and phosphates and are removed by the skimmer.

4) My pH has always been fine. I keep my ALK in a narrow range so pH pretty much takes care of itself.

5) ALK. I add soda ash that has been added to RODI (it is part of 2 part), If your tank is high demand like more than 1 DKH per day, you should look into automatic dosing.

6) Phosphate - algae like chaeto in the sump with a really strong light will do this.

7) Calcium - this is part of 2 part. It is essentially calcium chloride added to RODI. If you have fast growing stony corals, doing this method or a similar one is almost essential.

The problem with other elements also called trace elements or micronutrients is if you cannot measure them, you are f

Magnesium - I have found that even in a tank with a bunch of fast growing stony corals, water changes will keep this stable. But it can be dosed also.