successful high alk SPS tanks

This really is an interesting thread and shows just how adaptable corals are. I agree that stability in parameters is more important than what the parameters are within a certain range.

You are correct. A good friend ran her 240 zeo tank with a Dkh of 7-8 and anything higher would cause her corals to get alk burn fast. I could get a frag from her though, and drop it right into my tank with a Dkh of 11 and the coral would be fine. I never could figure that out. Even when she ran zeo free with low alk her corals would not tolerate anything above about 8.5.
 
What test kits are people using? I ask because up until last week, I would have said I'm running 7.8 dkh (using Lamotte test kit). However, running my new Hanna Checker alkalinity test kit, I'm evidently running 10.50 dkh!
 
Just for Kicks - I'll throw my personal observations in to the mix -

System Description:
Tanks: ~300g system (125g SPS +90g LPS + 40B Frag + 10g Refugium +Megaflow4 Sump)

Water- R/O Water + IO Reef Crystals

Filtration: Skimz SK201, 1.5L BioPellets, 5" DSB in 90g, ATO with Kalk, and manually leveling with 2 Part as necessary, 10% Water Change bi-weekly, Dosing LaCl (as needed), Switching between 200 micron mesh and felt Filter Socks Weekly.

Lighting: Maxspect Razor 16,000K LEDs on 125 (B=100%,W=35%) and Evergrow D120 on 90 & 40B. (B=60%-75%, W= 0-30%)
Controller: Neptune Apex

Current Parameters:
pH: 8.4
Temp: 80F
Cond. = 35-36 ppt
Alk = 9.96 dkH (Hanna)
Ca = 600 (Hanna)
Mg = 1400 (Red Sea)
PO4 = (haven't checked lately)
NO3 = (haven't checked lately)

Comments:
1) Been keeping Saltwater for 26 years with my first true reef back in 1999 in the 90g with 250W Iwasaki 6500K lighting, a rubbermaid Macroalgae sump, and a Seaclone 100 skimmer, with 6" DSB, Bi-Ionic 2 Part, and everything grew (but colors were crappy from the lighting) like gang busters with no water changes (just fresh water top offs for 8 years) till I moved to my new house and transferred everything to the 125g.
2006FTS.jpg


2) a year ago I ran higher Alk (11-12 dkh) because of what I saw on the Red Sea Videos for higher growth for my frags.
RedPlanetFrag.jpg

Red Planet Frag from 9/12/2012

3) I have recently reduced Alk down to attempt to color up. (which seems to be helping for the same RedPlanet Frag )
IMG_20131006_172924.jpg

Red Planet Photo taken last 10/6/2013
(Though I did switch lighting from 250W XM 15K to the LEDs during this period too so not sure the impacts on that. Without a true scientific Design of Experiment there's no easy way to quantify the impacts of each variable in a complex system like this.)

But hopefully my little snapshot is sample data to help others as we learn from each other in this fascinating hobby or should I say Addiction!

Ellery
 
You are correct. A good friend ran her 240 zeo tank with a Dkh of 7-8 and anything higher would cause her corals to get alk burn fast. I could get a frag from her though, and drop it right into my tank with a Dkh of 11 and the coral would be fine. I never could figure that out. Even when she ran zeo free with low alk her corals would not tolerate anything above about 8.5.

I think frags need higher alk for better growth, not 100% sure why, but I think it's to grow new tissue easier... I've been in the hobby for 10 years now, 4 years hardcore, and I've only currently just started chasing numbers... U see for some high works, for some low,like stated before it's more about stability. My alk has been ranging from 9.5 -10.5 over the last week.... Cheers!
 
great discussion guys and Jedimaster, tho the comments where from some time ago, i love your use of references and scientific literature. thanks everyone good read.
 
My old 150 G tank ran from 2008-2011 had higher alk than todays average 9-10.
Had decent growth although not comparable to todays standards, yet limiting factors was that I was new to SPS and couldn't keep my parameters that stable (struggled with nutrients) also my lighting was a 250 W MH in the middle and 150 W MH on the sides in low quality reflectors...
coloration was definitely not a match to ULNS yet still nice and I'd honestly take that 20% less colors than struggle with daily manual dosing and/or observation to decide whether Id need a drop more or less from X additive.
for a better idea about growth rate:
The Red planet in the middle grew from a 1 inch frag to this in less than 1.5 years with frequent fragging. Red mille on red planets side almost doubled in size in around 2 years with massive fragging. 2 monties below started with coin size frags less than 2 years before and were also fragged very frequently as these were the first SPS corals in the country and region... Can't really compare growth to a low Alk ystem as honestly my tank has not been as stable since my old one and that might be related to the lower alk I try to run come to think of it.
DSC_2772.jpg
 
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Bump!
 
Bump for an old thread. Noticed some people moving away from the ULNS systems, what Alk level are we shooting for now??
 
Low alk levels were (or are) a requirement for those who are carbon dosing-it doesn't have much to do with relative nutrient levels, and automatic dosers are required.

On the other hand high alkalinity levels carry a set of benefits that most people inexplicably seem unaware of (among others @Randy Holmes-Farley has written quite a bit about this), including the benefit of not needing dosers. FWIW I ran my tank for about 5 to 7 years this way with no dosers.

If you are not carbon dosing, then an alkalinity level between 3.0 and 4.0 mEq per liter would be recommended-especially if you are dosing manually.

If you are using a doser then it doesn't matter as much one way or the other because you can program it to dose many times per day. I'd target about 3.0 mEq/L in this case.
 

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