Sudden change in lighting???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mil26
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
Should be fine, do you have any natural light? You could just set your photo period a little later in the day, so that the ambient light in the room acts as your dawn time. Lights off thought that thing is just well lights out. I'm curious what kind of LEDs do you have that don't have a dawn/dusk setting?
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
It wont hurt the livestock or the equipment
 
Says right here "The light adopts isolation stepless dimming power, safer and longer lifespan in use, dimming effect is more smooth and stable, no flicker and jitter". Do they not dim?
 
Says right here "The light adopts isolation stepless dimming power, safer and longer lifespan in use, dimming effect is more smooth and stable, no flicker and jitter". Do they not dim?
Yes they dim but I have to manually do them
 
Is it bad for my led's to suddenly turn off and on?

It's 100% possible to keep fish to old age and keep beautiful coral colonies with a plain old ON/OFF light fixture.

(The sunrise/sunset is mostly for us, IMO.)

When you're running an ON/OFF fixture that is always "running at 100%" so to speak, keep in mind you probably don't need (or want) a 12 hour photoperiod like the sun in the tropics.

The sun is only "at 100%" for a few hours at most..
 
There was a time of t-5, pc and mh that the only option was on/off and there were never any issues. As stated the dawn/dusk effect is only for us.
 
It's 100% possible to keep fish to old age and keep beautiful coral colonies with a plain old ON/OFF light fixture.

(The sunrise/sunset is mostly for us, IMO.)

When you're running an ON/OFF fixture that is always "running at 100%" so to speak, keep in mind you probably don't need (or want) a 12 hour photoperiod like the sun in the tropics.

The sun is only "at 100%" for a few hours at most..
I have them set for 10hrs 75%blue and 50% whites is it to much?
 
Quite possibly, but it depends a little....try to define those percentages in terms of lux or PAR.

If you don't have a meter, start with a $free lux meter app for your smartphone like "galactica luxmeter" for IOS. (There are many options for both phone platforms...not all are equal, so double check your first samples here or PM me to make sure it's working.)

Once you have an idea how much light you're throwing at your tank, you can consider the concept of "peak sun hours" (PSH). It's harder to explain than to show with someone else's diagram:
PEAK-SUN.gif


Direct Sunlight over an equatorial day is about 1000 watts/m2 (also 100,000 lux, or 2000 PAR)...which I understand to equal about 5 PSH.

In other words, 5 hours at "Peak" (100,000 lux) would be energetically equivalent to a whole 12-hour tropical day that included the complete sunrise-to-sunset cycle.

So if your lights are as bright as the source (or depth) you're trying to emulate, all you may need is 5-6 hours of ON time.

If you want to be nerdy and experimental, there are solar power websites like the one where I stole that graph where you can look up the peak power and PSH of different locales. If you can back-figure your light's power to watts per square meter of your tank, you should be able to find a locale with a similar peak power and therefor be able to look up its PSH....aka how long you should leave your lights on. :)

(I think I kinda worded some of that wrong but the gist is right....read that link for the right details tho pls.)
 
Last edited:

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top