Suddenly having issues with Cyanobacteria

With dinos at least I know water changes add more dissolved minerals apparenltly for them to grow upon, I belive it's the same for cyano, correct me if I'm wrong

All pests (as well as all other photosynthetic organisms) need many trace elements. One reasonable theory that fits with dino problems and the way reefers find cures is that they may be able to be be beaten by limiting trace elements in various ways (less water change, more growth of algae and/or other organisms). Low nutrients actually seems to "help" dinos, possibly because low nutrients slows the growth of competitors for some trace element.

That method doesn't seem to fit as well with cyano. More often it seems to be "hurt" by low nutrients and also low organics.
 
All pests (as well as all other photosynthetic organisms) need many trace elements. One reasonable theory that fits with dino problems and the way reefers find cures is that they may be able to be be beaten by limiting trace elements in various ways (less water change, more growth of algae and/or other organisms). Low nutrients actually seems to "help" dinos, possibly because low nutrients slows the growth of competitors for some trace element.

That method doesn't seem to fit as well with cyano. More often it seems to be "hurt" by low nutrients and also low organics.

so more water changes, less feeedings, siphon out detritus?
 
Chemiclean once it was suffocating my corals. Dinos replaced it though so that's been fun. Raising nutrients and a UV sterilizer seems to given me the upper hand
Same here. I think my N and P got out of whack from a myriad of things of my own doing. Cyano took hold and I used Chemiclean to take care of that. Worked well, but now I think the dinos are on the scene. I am guessing nutrients are still low because I've been using Vibrant to try to kick the hair (I think) algae issue which seems to be slowing down and browning out.
Certainly have ugly tank syndrome, but trying to stay the course. I've let up on water changes and am trying to feed a bit more. I haven't tested nutrients but will do so at some point to see where I'm at, but everything tells me they're low and/or out of balance.
 
Same here. I think my N and P got out of whack from a myriad of things of my own doing. Cyano took hold and I used Chemiclean to take care of that. Worked well, but now I think the dinos are on the scene. I am guessing nutrients are still low because I've been using Vibrant to try to kick the hair (I think) algae issue which seems to be slowing down and browning out.
Certainly have ugly tank syndrome, but trying to stay the course. I've let up on water changes and am trying to feed a bit more. I haven't tested nutrients but will do so at some point to see where I'm at, but everything tells me they're low and/or out of balance.
You'll also need to dose nitrate and phosphate specifically. Feeding more isn't a great way to get more N and P since there is no control to it.
 
You'll also need to dose nitrate and phosphate specifically. Feeding more isn't a great way to get more N and P since there is no control to it.
Well, I should probably actually test them first before I do much of anything. Ha. :) Or, lay off the Vibrant which drives nutrients down I believe.

I may have to dose, though I would think if I just stick to a basic regiment, nutrients should regain themselves at some point. Prior to my futzing, the tank wasn't low nutrient.
 
All my numbers were excellent, nitrate <1, phosphate .02, running skimmer, ozone, ChemiPure Blue and Purigen, and yet I still had a small-moderate size outbreak of cyano, only in the sand. Confirmed it under a microscope, and then beat it completely in 2 weeks by discontinuing amino acid dosing plus siphoning the sand enthusiastically during my 3x/week 5% water changes. Did not change my fish feeding or my lighting. It just eventually didn't come back after being siphoned out. I was not going to use any antibiotics in my dt if I could absolutely help it. I've since resumed the amino acid dosing at half the previous level and so far so good.
 
I've had cyano on my sand for years. Never could figure it out. Don't mind the dying scoly. It was not shipped properly and didn't make it. It shows the cyano though.

20171018_172525.jpg
 
I've had cyano on my sand for years. Never could figure it out. Don't mind the dying scoly. It was not shipped properly and didn't make it. It shows the cyano though.

20171018_172525.jpg
I wouldn't be surprised if that isn't a dino and cyano mix. Lots of brown/rust going on.

A $10 toy microscope will help immensely.
 
I'm starting to wonder if my filter socks are the cause or when occasionally adding dry rock. Here is a different pic. Some weeks it looks better than others, but never goes away.

20171025_174216.jpg


20171018_175645.jpg
 
Same here. I think my N and P got out of whack from a myriad of things of my own doing. Cyano took hold and I used Chemiclean to take care of that. Worked well, but now I think the dinos are on the scene. I am guessing nutrients are still low because I've been using Vibrant to try to kick the hair (I think) algae issue which seems to be slowing down and browning out.
Certainly have ugly tank syndrome, but trying to stay the course. I've let up on water changes and am trying to feed a bit more. I haven't tested nutrients but will do so at some point to see where I'm at, but everything tells me they're low and/or out of balance.
I've seen vibrant spur huge dino outbreaks.
 
I've seen vibrant spur huge dino outbreaks.
Which is why I need to break the habit. But, I'm sort of afraid the hair algae will rear it's head again if I quit. I'm unsure how this tank got so out of whack. Prior to starting Vibrant, the glass would be a complete rusty haze and clouding the water in a day.

I just don't even know anymore.
 
Which is why I need to break the habit. But, I'm sort of afraid the hair algae will rear it's head again if I quit. I'm unsure how this tank got so out of whack. Prior to starting Vibrant, the glass would be a complete rusty haze and clouding the water in a day.

I just don't even know anymore.
Don't get discouraged. It's definitely a complex puzzle and a lot of trial and error. Esp if it's a tougher tank.

We just cleared a tank of brown water with a slightly more aggressive ganular activated carbon.
Actually in a bag on the return pump. Not even a reactor.

Honestly the Kiss method has done wonders for me.
Additives imo, can confuse the issue.
 
Don't get discouraged. It's definitely a complex puzzle and a lot of trial and error. Esp if it's a tougher tank.

We just cleared a tank of brown water with a slightly more aggressive ganular activated carbon.
Actually in a bag on the return pump. Not even a reactor.

Honestly the Kiss method has done wonders for me.
Additives imo, can confuse the issue.
If you want ultra clear water, dose chalk [emoji6]

Calcium carbonate is what KZ calls Coral Snow and charges a ridiculous amount for. It really clears up your water. Just need to make sure you have mechanical filtration to remove it. Filter and skimmer are great for this.
 
If you want ultra clear water, dose chalk [emoji6]

Calcium carbonate is what KZ calls Coral Snow and charges a ridiculous amount for. It really clears up your water. Just need to make sure you have mechanical filtration to remove it. Filter and skimmer are great for this.
Yup. You are correct.
I'm not 100% , but I belive that binds it to itself in the water coloum and needs to be removed mechanilly like when using lanthinum chloride. Yea.

The GAC binds the organics to the carbon chains and is removed with the carbon when its changed.

Prettt cool tools he have nowadays.

Edit , in theory both properly used would be a good treatment for cyano.
 
If you want ultra clear water, dose chalk [emoji6]

Calcium carbonate is what KZ calls Coral Snow and charges a ridiculous amount for. It really clears up your water. Just need to make sure you have mechanical filtration to remove it. Filter and skimmer are great for this.

Yup. You are correct.
I'm not 100% , but I belive that binds it to itself in the water coloum and needs to be removed mechanilly like when using lanthinum chloride. Yea.

The GAC binds the organics to the carbon chains and is removed with the carbon when its changed.

Prettt cool tools he have nowadays.

Edit , in theory both properly used would be a good treatment for cyano.
Calcium carbonate is great floculating agent in powdered form. Basically it just makes particles in the water clump together so they become large enough for mechanical filtration and easier to remove with a skimmer. Pretty neat little trick but you need to have really strong flow to keep the particles from settling.
 

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