Suggestions for Sump build?

kkgaskin90 · Aug 17, 2015

I'm attempting to DIY a sump from a 20 long. Here's what I sketched up... Any suggestions?

DT: 75 gallon mixed reed with corner overflow
Skimmer: Coral Box D700 (10.6x10.6" footprint)
Return: Fluval S2

Oscaror · Aug 17, 2015

From the skimmer to the fuge the water should go under a pane of glass THEN over, then from fuge to return, see how one pane is over flowig, then the water goes under a pane of glass? Switch that around, it should overflow from the fuge then go under the glass to the return. If you need me to pull out microsoft paint for you and show you I can.

kkgaskin90 · Aug 17, 2015

More like this?

That's my original drawing but someone told me the bubble trap needed to go after fuge. And to make the first baffle at 7" the tallest. Make other two 6"

hybridazn · Aug 17, 2015

kkgaskin90 said:
More like this?

That's my original drawing but someone told me the bubble trap needed to go after fuge. And to make the first baffle at 7" the tallest. Make other two 6"

I am guessing you are having the drain in the skimmer section? The drawing is good, my only suggestion would be to make the last baffle the same size as your first in the skimmer section because it will overflow the first baffle and will mess with the skimmer water height.

kkgaskin90 · Aug 17, 2015

No water flow is right to left, sorry.

Oscaror · Aug 17, 2015

I'd add another pane of glass (for the water to go under) after the overflow from the refugium
this will trap micro bubbles from the skimmer and is also a place to put any form of media that you might need

kkgaskin90 · Aug 17, 2015

Oscaror said:
I'd add another pane of glass (for the water to go under) after the overflow from the refugium
this will trap micro bubbles from the skimmer and is also a place to put any form of media that you might need

So essentially two bubble traps? One dividing each section?

Oscaror · Aug 17, 2015

kkgaskin90 said:
So essentially two bubble traps? One dividing each section?

just to be safe yes, also because the overflows can create bubbles of their own, too. And as I said, more space for media.

Harold Green · Aug 18, 2015

KK you might want to consider diverting some of the water flow around the refugium. If you're using a deep sand bed and trying to grow pods you really will do better with a slow flow through and not the full drain and return flow. I like having the return in the middle of the sump and a small tap flowing water into the refugium at one end of the sump. That way you have water flowing into the return from both ends of the tank and the fuge light won't grow algae in your skimmer. Many hobbyists do it the way you have it drawn and apparently it works that way so I'm just giving you my take on layout.

hawkinsrgk · Aug 18, 2015

Harold Green said:
KK you might want to consider diverting some of the water flow around the refugium. If you're using a deep sand bed and trying to grow pods you really will do better with a slow flow through and not the full drain and return flow. I like having the return in the middle of the sump and a small tap flowing water into the refugium at one end of the sump. That way you have water flowing into the return from both ends of the tank and the fuge light won't grow algae in your skimmer. Many hobbyists do it the way you have it drawn and apparently it works that way so I'm just giving you my take on layout.

+1 I use to have mine setup this way with the 180G

kkgaskin90 · Aug 18, 2015

Ok so if I swap the return to the middle, what determines the water level in that section? The first section with skimmer has to be 7 inches. I gain 2 gallons in the sump when everything turns off.

hawkinsrgk · Aug 18, 2015

Your water topoff will determine the water level in that section

kkgaskin90 · Aug 18, 2015

So I could have a 10" deep fuge section and 7" deep skimmer section no problem?

hawkinsrgk · Aug 18, 2015

kkgaskin90 said:
So I could have a 10" deep fuge section and 7" deep skimmer section no problem?

Correct. It would not be a problem both the left and right side would be flowing into the center section

Harold Green · Aug 19, 2015

Here's a slightly larger version of a sump. It can be scaled down as long as the skimmer will fit in it's chamber. It's a good idea to have the skimmer during construction and remember the return pump chamber water level will go up and down so you have to fill the tank to overflow and the sump to the level you want it. Once the pump is running then mark the water level in the pump chamber and set your

ato to maintain that level.

kkgaskin90 · Aug 19, 2015

So to plumb this style, I run a T off the main line with a ball valve to the fuge, correct?
(1) Is that the only valve I should put in? (2) what prevents the water from dropping straight down instead of some diverting at a 90 degree at the T?

Harold Green · Aug 19, 2015

That should have finished up saying set your ato to maintain that level.

Harold Green · Aug 19, 2015

If you're feeding the fuge from the overflow the valve will have to be in the main line below the tee. Mine's fed from the return so the valve is on the small line running to the fuge. You can do it either way but I prefer to filter out most of the detritus before it reaches the fuge. Personal preference and I sized my return pump so I still have a return volume close to the maximum overflow rate of the tank. If your return pump is a little large you can always bleed off some of the flow back into the sump whereas a too small pump will never allow you to adjust your flow to the tanks maximum return rate.