Sulphur Denitrators
- Thread starter Fragged_it
- Start date
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I ran a DIY one when I first switched from FOWLR system to a reef. My nitrates where through the roof (180+) and it got them down to below 50. It just couldn't seem to get them down much lower than 40 for me. I switched to vodka dosing to try to get the nitrates down to zero and also didn't want another piece of equipment. It did work drop my nitrates initially quickly from the 180 -50 within 4 weeks.
*edit* I followed this thread on the "other forum". You can see the one I built mid way down the page. You can also see the "moved on" under my user name....lol!
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1288082&page=5
*edit* I followed this thread on the "other forum". You can see the one I built mid way down the page. You can also see the "moved on" under my user name....lol!
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1288082&page=5
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OP
OP
Fragged_it
Dremel_Master
That's my story. I was off the chart with my FOWLR, it looked like someone bled into the vial. It was so red I can't be sure what they were. The DIY sulphur denitrator got me down to 20ppm (as well as some radical changes in my filtration), but it could never get me below 20. Rather than going to vodka dosing I purchased a solid denitrator and I've been at 0 ever since.
I'm curious to find someone running one longer than I have been to see if there has been any long term ill effects. So far mine has been the best purchase second only to my skimmer.
Anyone else using them?
I'm curious to find someone running one longer than I have been to see if there has been any long term ill effects. So far mine has been the best purchase second only to my skimmer.
Anyone else using them?
Actually that thread split and it's 40+ pages for every split so I think it's at like 85 total pages...:snicker:
beaslbob
2500 Club Member
I am glad it is working to your satisfaction.
FWIW this is my take
1) extremely hard to adjust.
2) assuming correct operation, they reduce nitrates but do nothing for phosphate. As do almost all nitrates reducing methods except macro algaes. Like nitrate sponges, dsbs and so on.
So you get phosphates with low nitrates. The perfect conditions for cyano bacteria.
I just maintain unmeasureable nitrates and phosphates with macro algaes and in the process create a tank the is a net consumer of carbon dioxide and producer of oxygen each 24 hour period.
But that's just me
and my .02
FWIW this is my take
1) extremely hard to adjust.
2) assuming correct operation, they reduce nitrates but do nothing for phosphate. As do almost all nitrates reducing methods except macro algaes. Like nitrate sponges, dsbs and so on.
So you get phosphates with low nitrates. The perfect conditions for cyano bacteria.
I just maintain unmeasureable nitrates and phosphates with macro algaes and in the process create a tank the is a net consumer of carbon dioxide and producer of oxygen each 24 hour period.
But that's just me
and my .02
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OP
OP
Fragged_it
Dremel_Master
Thanks beaslbob. I greatly appreciate your .02!
I have to admit, I am constantly fighting cyano... I have two areas on my sand bed that it comes and goes, almost weekly. My phosphates are unmeasurable, but they may be being consumed causing the test to be inaccurate.
I have to admit, I am constantly fighting cyano... I have two areas on my sand bed that it comes and goes, almost weekly. My phosphates are unmeasurable, but they may be being consumed causing the test to be inaccurate.
beaslbob
2500 Club Member
Oh i think the test is accurate. It's just telling ya the cyano is consuming all the phosphates. :wink:
Afterall the tank is still producing nitrates and phosphates. Just that the nitrate and phosphates consumers are keeping up.
my .02 (a double charge?)
ReefNightmare
Community Member
I have the Midwest Denitrator but is in the closet,
I never set it up,my nitrates are below 2 and phosphates below
0.0
. I do water change every month, and run 3 phosban reactors
with media,plus lots of macroalgae.I have heavy stock in my 95g Reeftank(11 fishes)
Do you think would it be good to set up the DN?
Do you guys see your nitrates levels going up after a while and
then you do WC or they are always undetectable?
I never set it up,my nitrates are below 2 and phosphates below
0.0
. I do water change every month, and run 3 phosban reactorswith media,plus lots of macroalgae.I have heavy stock in my 95g Reeftank(11 fishes)
Do you think would it be good to set up the DN?
Do you guys see your nitrates levels going up after a while and
then you do WC or they are always undetectable?
OP
OP
Fragged_it
Dremel_Master
If your nitrates are 2, leave it in the closet. If, bychance, they climb someday, then set it up.
scalare102079
Community Member
use a midwest aquatics unit as well, love it! Helped me out tons when I wasn't capable of performing my normal routine water changes...
ReeferBen
Active Member
I use a midwest unit as well, keeps Nitrates undetectable. I use GFO and carbon in a duel BRS reactor and my last hanna colorimeter P04 test came out at .01. I also do bi-weekly water changes.
Acroholic
There is no substitute.
- Joined
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I have the large Midwest Unit as well, and the one thing I did was get rid of the cruddy pinch valve they give you for adjusting the effluent rate. I replaced it with a USPlastics needle valve, and it works great.
I have found that every few months (5 or so) I need to take the unit apart and rinse everything because you get a buildup of white bacterial film that causes the rotten egg smell that you cannot get rid of by increasing the effluent rate, as the Owner's Manual states to do.
The bacteria buildup looks like egg whites cooked in boiling water, and if you rinse the calcarous and sulfur media, along with the separator sponges it starts right back up without a long new cycle. I clean the entire unit since I have it apart.
I believe the bacteria film just plain and simple clogs the reactor after a time.
Another good thing to do is lube the reactor top O-ring with silicone lube every time you open it up.
I have found that every few months (5 or so) I need to take the unit apart and rinse everything because you get a buildup of white bacterial film that causes the rotten egg smell that you cannot get rid of by increasing the effluent rate, as the Owner's Manual states to do.
The bacteria buildup looks like egg whites cooked in boiling water, and if you rinse the calcarous and sulfur media, along with the separator sponges it starts right back up without a long new cycle. I clean the entire unit since I have it apart.
I believe the bacteria film just plain and simple clogs the reactor after a time.
Another good thing to do is lube the reactor top O-ring with silicone lube every time you open it up.
beaslbob
2500 Club Member
I have the Midwest Denitrator but is in the closet,
I never set it up,my nitrates are below 2 and phosphates below
0.0
with media,plus lots of macroalgae.I have heavy stock in my 95g Reeftank(11 fishes)
Do you think would it be good to set up the DN?
Do you guys see your nitrates levels going up after a while and
then you do WC or they are always undetectable?
Both nitrates and phosphates are unmeasureable continuously. I do no water changes. Nitrates measured with the API test kit, phosphates with the low reading salifert test kit.
Tank is balanced out with chaetomorphia macro algae in a refugium.
I also use the diy 2part and add some kalk in top off water.
my .02
OP
OP
Fragged_it
Dremel_Master
My manufacture added a step by step start up of a sulphur denitrator on his forum. He uses a Pinpoint Nitrate monitor to demonstrate how to cycle these units. He used a 60 gallon FOWL tank with nitrates at 29ppm. It took 2 days 14 hours to bring the tank down to 0ppm.
Denitrator Build from Start to Finish - David's Tanks and Innovations
Denitrator Build from Start to Finish - David's Tanks and Innovations
robert
Valuable Member
I have run a DIY sulphur denitrator for a few years now. Recently I had the opportunity to test it on a 170 gallon mixed reef with nitrates > 40 and phosphates at 0.29. After eight days nitrates went to 0 and phosphates are down to 0.13ppm. Its not well known, but properly configured, sulphur denitrators are quite effective at removing phosphate. Too bad none of the commercial versions that I have seen are built correctly.
Once the denitrator is fully popped and after your nitrate hits 0, you have to dose nitrate to the system to drive the phospahte down and maintain nitrate to phosphate ratio (above 16:1) necessary to inhibit cyano.
Once the denitrator is fully popped and after your nitrate hits 0, you have to dose nitrate to the system to drive the phospahte down and maintain nitrate to phosphate ratio (above 16:1) necessary to inhibit cyano.
sirjustis
Community Member
currently on my DIY reactor i have a maxijet 1200. im thinking this is to much. i just shut it off for the afternoon to see if maybe i can get some colonizing in the next 6 hours! i can always switch to a maxi 400, thats like barely any flow. anyone want to jump in?
Denitrator Build from Start to Finish
this is the site where i have currently recieved all my info.
my tank rite now is between 40-20ppm nitrates. the only thing i havent done is run my reactor wide open for 24 hours, but it has been on line that long, just not wide open. coming out the effluent this morning was identical to my tank. again that was 20-40ppm on nitrates, per api. so i imagine the trates are in there.
Denitrator Build from Start to Finish
this is the site where i have currently recieved all my info.
my tank rite now is between 40-20ppm nitrates. the only thing i havent done is run my reactor wide open for 24 hours, but it has been on line that long, just not wide open. coming out the effluent this morning was identical to my tank. again that was 20-40ppm on nitrates, per api. so i imagine the trates are in there.
robert
Valuable Member
Yes, I run run a re-circulation pump inside the media chamber. My dead water volume is 3% of total water volume and media itself is slightly less than 1.5% of total water volume. Media should be mixed - not separated - this is important for phosphate removal. Flow rate is equal to the total dead water volume per hour.
So if you have a 100 gallon tank - you would want a 3 gallon container (dead water volume) - filled with 1.5 gallons of mixed media. You would run a flow rate through the denitratorr of 3 gallons per hour. My internal re-circulation flow is 100 gph - I don't think more would hut anything as long as its not so much so as to move (and stratify) the media.
During break-in, while the bacteria are setting up in the denitrator, you may find slowing the flow through the denitrator helps things get going, but once you can detect a drop in nitrates at the output - open it up to nominal flow.
So if you have a 100 gallon tank - you would want a 3 gallon container (dead water volume) - filled with 1.5 gallons of mixed media. You would run a flow rate through the denitratorr of 3 gallons per hour. My internal re-circulation flow is 100 gph - I don't think more would hut anything as long as its not so much so as to move (and stratify) the media.
During break-in, while the bacteria are setting up in the denitrator, you may find slowing the flow through the denitrator helps things get going, but once you can detect a drop in nitrates at the output - open it up to nominal flow.
