Sump basics

[MapleLeafReefer]

Hello all. I think there is something not quite right with my sump. Full disclosure I'm a newbie when it comes to sump design and I'm wondering if you can educate me. My return tube goes into a compartment that then overflows into 3 filter socks then into an area with a protein skimmer and then an area with live rock and my heaters (same water height) then into the area with the return pump. I have no filtration other than the filter socks and a bag with activated carbon. How do I make this system better? Where do I add additional filters? What filters are "best"? Why does my overflow tube have so much air in it? Why do I "loose" so much water right after I top off the level in the compartment with the return pump? Any and all advice is welcome. Thanks in advance

 

[Jekyl]

I would ditch the rocks and use chaeto or some other macro algae with a light.

 

[Pico bam]

Honestly its really not bad. You could try tuning your over flow with a ball valve or adjust your return pump if you can. Id also recommend a refugium instead of live rock.

 

[MapleLeafReefer]

I would ditch the rocks and use chaeto or some other macro algae with a light.

Any particular light for growing chaeto?

 

[Pistondog]

I would ditch the rocks and use chaeto or some other macro algae with a light.

Why not both, put the chaeto on top of the live rock.
Close to the surface maximizes par.
Chaeto does not have to be rotating under water to grow.

 

[Pistondog]

Any particular light for growing chaeto?

I'm glad you asked...

 

[MapleLeafReefer]

Honestly its really not bad. You could try tuning your over flow with a ball valve or adjust your return pump if you can. Id also recommend a refugium instead of live rock.

Is a refugium when one uses chaeto like Jekyl suggested?

 

[MapleLeafReefer]

I'm glad you asked...

Sweet!

 

[Brady4000]

Is a refugium when one uses chaeto like Jekyl suggested?

Yes

 

[Pistondog]

Yes

My refugium is live rock to 3 inches of water surface,chaeto on top.
Pods, hermits snails in with rock.

 

[RocketEngineer]

1) If you are topping off all at once, the increased water depth in the sump reduces the height the pump has to push for water to enter the tank, therefore its able to slightly increase the tank level which has a higher surface area vs the return pump section. So while you may not notice it changing in the display, you do notice it in the sump.

2) You don’t need more filter. There is no “best” so don’t fall for that. There are successful methods and ones that only work for a rare few. Find someone successful who’s method you understand and do what they did.

 

[MapleLeafReefer]

I'm glad you asked...

Sweet

1) If you are topping off all at once, the increased water depth in the sump reduces the height the pump has to push for water to enter the tank, therefore its able to slightly increase the tank level which has a higher surface area vs the return pump section. So while you may not notice it changing in the display, you do notice it in the sump.

2) You don’t need more filter. There is no “best” so don’t fall for that. There are successful methods and ones that only work for a rare few. Find someone successful who’s method you understand and do what they did.

That makes sense. Thanks

 

[MapleLeafReefer]

My refugium is live rock to 3 inches of water surface,chaeto on top.
Pods, hermits snails in with rock.

Awesome. Thank you

 

[BostonReefer300]

That's a nice DIY setup---particularly for a sump newbie! I'd add to the above comments with:
1) If you're going to put in chaeto (or other macroalgae), you'll ideally want to black out the panels in that compartment so the light doesn't start growing nuisance algae elsewhere in your sump.
2) I'd strongly recommend doing drip loops on all your wires, putting your surge protector and all power bricks up off the floor, and putting a ground wire into your sump. Right now that looks like a big short or electrocution waiting to happen. Just trying to help---not being mean

 

[MapleLeafReefer]

Thank you appreciate the advice. Regarding wires I know I have a lot to do to make it right. I need tibget that second power bar off the floor. Had no idea how many cords there would be . But grounding the sump...how would I do that? I'm good with electrical (I'm a tradesman) I just can't think of how to get continuity without creating a short.
And blacking out panels...can you elaborate? Which panels? And in reefing do we call the glass of a tank a pannel? Sorry for my ignorance. Lol thanks again

 

[BostonReefer300]

For the grounding probe, here's an example: I'd definitely put one in your sump. If you have any electrical components in your DT, I'd put one in there too. However, if you just have electricity outside the DT (eg exterior motors like with a vortech circulation pump), then you don't need to worry about that in the DT. Basically, you want anything that can generate voltage in the tank to be able to "reach" a grounding probe EVEN IF THE FLOW IS OFF. Saltwater is a great conductor, but electricity can't travel through an air gap in an overflow when the flow is stopped, for instance.
For darkening panels, you'd want to do that to the two internal glass dividers and back wall section of where your sump rocks are. Leave the front glass panel clear so you can see what's going on. Easiest way at this point is to drain everything and then superglue some aquarium background () to those panels. You could also use a black non-toxic paint, but that would've have been easier before gluing in the dividers. Just keep the height of your light low in your new refugium area so little light spills into other compartments. In your setup, I'd highly recommend getting a submersible refugium light. This definitely helps minimize light leak and you don't have to worry about a regular light getting wet. I put this one in my refugium, but you can find much cheaper ones on Amazon (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/waterproof-10000k-led-fixture-8821-00-tunze.html). Just make sure the description says it's suitable for growing things in a refugium---and not just an ornamental light. You definitely don't have to spend a lot to get a good refugium light these days.

 

[MapleLeafReefer]

For the grounding probe, here's an example: I'd definitely put one in your sump. If you have any electrical components in your DT, I'd put one in there too. However, if you just have electricity outside the DT (eg exterior motors like with a vortech circulation pump), then you don't need to worry about that in the DT. Basically, you want anything that can generate voltage in the tank to be able to "reach" a grounding probe EVEN IF THE FLOW IS OFF. Saltwater is a great conductor, but electricity can't travel through an air gap in an overflow when the flow is stopped, for instance.
For darkening panels, you'd want to do that to the two internal glass dividers and back wall section of where your sump rocks are. Leave the front glass panel clear so you can see what's going on. Easiest way at this point is to drain everything and then superglue some aquarium background () to those panels. You could also use a black non-toxic paint, but that would've have been easier before gluing in the dividers. Just keep the height of your light low in your new refugium area so little light spills into other compartments. In your setup, I'd highly recommend getting a submersible refugium light. This definitely helps minimize light leak and you don't have to worry about a regular light getting wet. I put this one in my refugium, but you can find much cheaper ones on Amazon (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/waterproof-10000k-led-fixture-8821-00-tunze.html). Just make sure the description says it's suitable for growing things in a refugium---and not just an ornamental light. You definitely don't have to spend a lot to get a good refugium light these days.

Thank you for the clarification. All very helpful. Much appreciated