sump build???

Redneckreef90 · Apr 29, 2016

I want to build a sump for my 90 because i thin that will my cheapest way. Looking at a 40 breeder for the sump. does anyone have any drawn out plans for one and a list of materials I will need and where to get them. This will be my first and I am a total newb at this so all help will be much appreciated.

Fin · Apr 29, 2016

http://www.exoticmarinesystems.com/collections/all They make a nice kit for turning a 40B into a sweet sump. The 40B is not listed on the site, but maybe send TaylorPilot here a private message.

Redneckreef90 · Apr 30, 2016

Fin said:
http://www.exoticmarinesystems.com/collections/all They make a nice kit for turning a 40B into a sweet sump. The 40B is not listed on the site, but maybe send TaylorPilot here a private message.

Thanks I will check them out

glb · Apr 30, 2016

You'll need 1/4" inch for the dividers in the sump. You'll also need aquarium safe silicone (ge II is one or look for 'aquarium safe' on the label). A builder's square helps so the divider is perfectly vertical. Let me see if i can find more detailed instructions for you.

Fin · Apr 30, 2016

glb said:
You'll need 1/4" inch for the dividers in the sump. You'll also need aquarium safe silicone (ge II is one or look for 'aquarium safe' on the label). A builder's square helps so the divider is perfectly vertical. Let me see if i can find more detailed instructions for you.

Sorry to disagree here, but the GE Silicone 1 is the safer silicone of the two. GE Silicone II uses mold inhibitors. Better yet, use Momentive RTV 103 or 108 (black or clear). Stronger bond and is more of a construction adhesive.

jsker · Apr 30, 2016

Use this stuff, work well for me

redfishbluefish · Apr 30, 2016

@Fin is correct....it's GE Slicone I that is the "safe" hardware store silicone. DO NOT USE GE SILICONE II. What's also important is letting it cure for as long as you can.....I'd say a minimum of three days, but would prefer even a couple days more.

As far as the design of the sump (size of each compartment and location), that will be dependent on the drain configuration and the size of the equipment you wish to fit into the sump. First and foremost is your skimmer. You want to be able to fit your skimmer, and also have the room to take it out of the sump. I've seen folks who made their skimmer compartment to just fit their skimmer, and once installed in the stand, could not get their skimmer in or out of the compartment.

I too have a 90 gallon DT with a 40 Breeder sump. I have three compartments with no bubble traps. I found that I really didn't need them. I only get bubbles from the water cascading over the baffles...nothing from my skimmer. I also have two drains....one is each back corner of the sump, with the return section in the center of the sump. Here's a picture of my 40 Breeder:

One more calculation you'll need to do is to determine the amount of water flowing back into the sump once your pump is turned off. I always get people commenting that my baffles are too high and my sump will overflow. Well I calculated the amount of water and it comes right to the top of the baffles....fits just fine.

Planning is critical to a great sump! Know what you want to do.

Fin · Apr 30, 2016

This is a top view of my 40B sump after I completed it. Tank drains into the left rear chamber, flows over and into two 4" filter socks, into the skimmer section, through the bubble trap and into the return section. The compartment on the right is an area for frags. Could also be used as a refugium. The bulkheads on the back wall are for the return pump (on the right), the manifold pump (center) and a drain to accommodate a drain from a remote refugium. The mini-bulkhead fittings inside of the filter sock section is where my ATO and doser enter the sump. Many ways to skin a cat and build a sump though.