Sump critique

[wickette]

Im building a 20L sump (no skimmer), Im using a glass tank with 1/4" acrylic baffles (not ideal but glass is crazy over priced locally). Ive got all the parts ready, I just need to cut the final heights for the baffles and silicone them in.

As this is my first sump I wanted you experts to look it over and see if my design has any glaring issues (primarily baffle heights and placement). The water will be passing though a mechanical filter before entering the sump so no need for filter socks.

 

[JimFuller]

I am not sure what you are attempting to do.
, but the water in bvb the second chamber will be 7 inches. This leaves question to the 5.5 inch baffle.

 

[Reef-junky]

Acrylic doesn’t bond worth a dang to glass and it expands when wet so you have to leave a gap. I would get rid of the 5.5 inch baffle and move the bubble trap to right before the return pump. I would gap the bubble trap baffles 1.5 inches apart each. What ever you are trying to put between those baffles can just be put in the sump.

 

[wickette]

PS I have that 5.5" ready, I figured that extra chamber will just add extra mechanical and biological filtration. Why shouldnt I use it?

 

[Reef-junky]

Because you don’t need it and it’s taking up space. Those rings don’t need to be in a baffle. I prefer the blocks my self more surface area. I can’t say about bio balls in fresh water but no one uses them in saltwater they are known for trapping detritus you really have to stay on top of cleaning them. Sponges can be a problem as well if you don’t keep them clean. Looks like some kind a wet/dry filter which people stopped using years ago in saltwater. I prefer filter sock or nothing to sponges but that’s just me. That set would be a nightmare in saltwater as it’s going to trap a ton of crap in it and need to be cleaned a lot might be fine for fresh water.

 

[wickette]

Ack, my questions were accidentally deleted in my last post, putting them up here

1)Major thing im concerned about is water level. I dont want less than 7" and not more than 8.5". Have I set this up correctly to account for that with evaporation and regular fluctuations. If I unplug the pump, overflow dumps 3.35" of water into the sump tank.
2) Is the first chamber too big?
3)Is 1" from the top enough for the 1st baffle.
4) Is 1/8" on each side of the baffle enough or too much to account for acrylic expansion.

(caveat, this is for a tropical not for a reef tank, I know I know, Im sorry, theres just far more good info about sumps on the reef2reef forums than in any tropical forum)

 

[Reef-junky]

Do you not plan on using an ATO?

 

[chaostactics]

No idea what you mean about pot scrubbers. But no just no. Also no to bioballs and ceramic rings. You can replace the sponge with biomedia, marine pure, etc.

 

[Reef-junky]

No idea what you mean about pot scrubbers. But no just no. Also no to bioballs and ceramic rings. You can replace the sponge with biomedia, marine pure, etc.

+1

 

[Reef-junky]

No idea what you mean about pot scrubbers. But no just no. Also no to bioballs and ceramic rings. You can replace the sponge with biomedia, marine pure, etc.

I think he means actual pot scrubbers

 

[Reef-junky]

As far as chamber size there are no rules it just depends on what you want to put in them. You really don’t need a ton a baffles. One bubble trap and one for the first chamber.

 

[wickette]

Do you not plan on using an ATO? How much water is going to back flow from the return if you lose power?

Would I need an ATO if the sump was mostly covered? Plans for one are in the back of my head but no priority on it.
Everything is being built all at once, so its all still adjustable, with the current weir height, pipes, etc. 4.75gallons will fall into the sump in a power outage (that would be 3.35" on my 20L)

No idea what you mean about pot scrubbers. But no just no. Also no to bioballs and ceramic rings. You can replace the sponge with biomedia, marine pure, etc.

Pot scrubbers are the most common DIY media in the hobby; cheap, reusable, tipple the surface area of bioballs. I already have the media switching it to something else is an unnecessary expense.

Im concerned about the viability of the sump; will it fail, overflow, bypass the media because it was designed poorly, etc.

 

[cracker]

Wickett, So this will be a freshwater tank?
" IMO " If so bioballs would be fine to use, any thing with a big surface area for the bacteria to live . Also iv'e been using acrylic for baffles in more than several tanks never had one pull away . I do rough up the edges where the silicone will be applied. Sticks just fine . The water level in the 1st section will stay at 7.5 inches. The rest will be at 7 inches.

 

[wickette]

Wickett, So this will be a freshwater tank?
The water level in the 1st section will stay at 7.5 inches. The rest will be at 7 inches.

Ideally I want the water level to be at 8" all the time, Ive lowering that last baffle by 1" to ensure it all keeps running smoothly with evaporation, so if I did have an ATO, or had zero evaporation all the baffle water flows over are always going to be submerged... is that the right way of designing it?

 

[cracker]

Correct , you will have to set the float/on,off switch on the ATO at your desired height . The baffle will be submerged. The water behind the 1st baffle set at 7.5 will be that deep unless the float is set higher.

 

[wickette]

ok, so the design is fine? (give or take that last baffles)

Final question: No DIY site suggests doing this, but why dont people leave all the baffles at full height and drill holes where they want the water to flow. For example my first baffle: