Sump design critique

[CaCrimson]

First, yes, I am a Noob! :bigsmile: I am just getting back into the hobby after not having a tank for more than 20 years, since I was a kid. I was able to connect with a R2R member who has helped me tremendously with designing my setup and giving me some great feedback.

I ordered a 58-gallon 35-3/4†L x 17-3/4†W x 24†H Starphire (3-side) ½†rimless tank from Leemar. It should be here in another month or so. I also have a custom stand being made for me right now. I want to do a mixed reef.

I started a sump design and as of now, I was going to ask John from Advanced Acrylics to make it. I wanted to put my sump design out to the broader community to get your feedback before I place an order for it. I have learned so much by reading other posts out here and I was hoping someone may have some good ideas how I can change or improve the design?

The display tank will have an overflow with Herbie drains (two 1†drains) and one ¾†return. I plan to hard plumb the drains into the lid on the sump.

As of now, I plan to use a SeaSide Aquatics CS7 Skimmer in the middle chamber. I also plan to use an Ameka Aquatics bio reactor in the skimmer chamber. I plan to use a Sicce Syncra Silent 3.0 return pump.

I plan to use a Profilux Mitras LX 6100 light fixture. I still have not settled on other pumps, a dosing pump or controller. I have ideas, but right now I am trying to focus on the sump design.

Any ideas or critique will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Eric B]

Sump looks good! Don't see anything wrong with it and it should work fine as long as there is enough room for the equipment you want to place into it......

 

[CaCrimson]

Thanks for the feedback Eric! I will be starting a build thread once I get everything together. I hope you'll be able to follow my progress =)

Sump looks good! Don't see anything wrong with it and it should work fine as long as there is enough room for the equipment you want to place into it......

 

[islander84]

Check out melevsreef.com for sump designs and ideas. One problem i see might be detritus build up in far right chamber.

 

[CaCrimson]

Thank you for your feedback! I have been looking long and hard at melevsreef.com over the past couple months. I've been through all the sump designs on there many times. =)

When you mentioned detritus buildup in my right chamber, do you mean where the drains will be or where the socks are planned to be? Do you think there will be inadequate flow?

Thanks again!

Check out melevsreef.com for sump designs and ideas. One problem i see might be detritus build up in far right chamber.

 

[ReeferBob]

You have an odd design. I am not sure why you have all that complexity on the right side with the 2" chamber. You are building a 2 chamber sump, I suggest not trying to "reinvent" the wheel. Lose the 2" part on the right and have your DT drain into the sump directly into the filter socks. The top of the filter socks should be a bit above the water level as well. In your design, they are at the water level. islander84 is correct about the ditreus buildup in the 2" chamber. Also rather then try to build the piece in that the sock fits into, just buy a premade filter sock holder. You aren't going to be able to design a better sump then some of the makers like Eshopps. Look at what they do and copy that general design.

CPR Aquatic Sock-It Sump Inlet Pre-filter: Aquarium Sump Mechanical Pre-filter

 

[CaCrimson]

Thank you very much for your input ReeferBob! Now, I see what you and Islander84 mean by ditreus buildup in that space I put that is not necessary.

Thank you also for the link to the pre-filter CPR Sock-its. I think those could be really useful for some sumps. I was going to get the built-in sock holders since I am going to have this sump made for me. I think the Sock-its would be great if I were making the sump myself?

Last night before I got read your post, I had redesigned the sump a little because I realized I needed to turn the drains around. If you have the time and are willing, would you take a look at my updated design below? Thanks again for your input :bigsmile:

You have an odd design. I am not sure why you have all that complexity on the right side with the 2" chamber. You are building a 2 chamber sump, I suggest not trying to "reinvent" the wheel. Lose the 2" part on the right and have your DT drain into the sump directly into the filter socks. The top of the filter socks should be a bit above the water level as well. In your design, they are at the water level. islander84 is correct about the ditreus buildup in the 2" chamber. Also rather then try to build the piece in that the sock fits into, just buy a premade filter sock holder. You aren't going to be able to design a better sump then some of the makers like Eshopps. Look at what they do and copy that general design.

CPR Aquatic Sock-It Sump Inlet Pre-filter: Aquarium Sump Mechanical Pre-filter

 

[CaCrimson]

Updated design: Comments welcome!

 

[GHill762]

the middle baffle on the left, you might consider not taking all the way to the top, in case there is some blockage or whatever it can flow over the top..

 

[ithk21620]

*1^

 

[CaCrimson]

GHill762 and ithk21620 thank you both for your input! I considered just your point a while back and was basing my design on a custom sump I had seen. I copied it assuming they had it that way for a reason... though now I am not sure why they took the return baffle all the way to the top, but I agree with you, it makes sense not to have it that way in the event of a blockage. I will modify the design with your input. Thanks again! Much appreciated!

*1^

 

[GHill762]

Imo I think you want it low enough that in the event of a blockage it will overflow before your return pump runs dry.. just my .02

Though it should be difficult to block that wide of an opening, better safe than sorry..

Good luck with the build!

Sent from my SCH-R530U using Reef2Reef Aquarium Forum mobile app

 

[CaCrimson]

Thanks again for the advice! Thanks for taking the time.

Imo I think you want it low enough that in the event of a blockage it will overflow before your return pump runs dry.. just my .02

Though it should be difficult to block that wide of an opening, better safe than sorry..

Good luck with the build!

Sent from my SCH-R530U using Reef2Reef Aquarium Forum mobile app

 

[ReeferBob]

This is getting better! Those two 1" drain holes should be sized for a bulkhead unless you have some other method to keep your plumbing attached to the sump. Also same comments about the tall wall in the middle of your bubble trap - why? It serves no purpose. I don't think the bubble trap could ever get plugged up, but the tall wall is just a waste of glass/acrylic. Also I think 4.5" is going to limit you on what return pump you can use. Could be fine, just make sure the pump you are going to use fits ok in this area.

I think before starting you should get the filter socks that you are going to use. Your design has them going in the top. Most of them that I have seen have hard plastic frames and slide in. I am not sure they are going to work in your design. Also still with that section you are blocking most access to it. What if a large hermit or snail gets in there?

The water height in your skimmer section will be the level of the teeth. Make sure this is the water level specified with your skimmer. You can always raise it up, but if it is too shallow, your skimmer won't work correctly.

Take a look at this sump, I have the RS-100 on one of my tanks. Roughly the size of the one your are building. I don't think you can build this for less then $180.

Reef Aquarium Filtration: Eshopps Reef Sumps

 

[CaCrimson]

Thank you ReeferBob for all of your comments and suggestions. This help from you and others is invaluable. It's so nice to have many sets of experienced eyes looking for all of the weaknesses.

Re: drain holes for bulkheads
Thank you for pointing this out. I am going to get the display tank and install the bulkheads on the display tank before I order the sump. I will be able to then know the size of the bulkhead holes for the 1" drains in the sump drain cover. I think it's 45mm for a 1" ABS bulkhead, but I will make sure when the tank and bulkheads are here so I can let the sump-maker know.

Re: tall wall in bubble trap
Thank you - I have modified the tall wall to the return section to be shorter.

Re: 4.5" width for return pump chamber
Thank you - I have also considered this and it is small. My custom stand is only 33" long on the inside so my sump is limited on its length. When the stand gets here tomorrow or Saturday, I am going to measure and see if I can increase the size of the sump length, thus increasing the return chamber also. I was going to start with the Sicce Syncra 3.0 and it should fit... However, the size limits me to pumps that I can use in the future. Thanks for the advice.

Re: filter socks and sock section
Thanks for the advice to get the filter socks before having the sump built. I will do this. I was going to try these Bulk Reef Supply socks, and if I'm not mistaken they can be inserted from the top. Please let me know if you know anything otherwise.
BRS Felt Filter Sock with Plastic Ring - Bulk Reef Supply

I know the section separating the socks from the skimmer may be clunky and I would have to remove one of the socks to stick my hand in there to get a snail, etc. I was going for a design that would limit bubbles by forcing the flow under the sock baffle and into the skimmer chamber. I saw this done on a Vivid Aquariums sump and their video and I thought it was a good idea? They explained the more you force the water under a baffle, the less bubbles you will probably get? Here is my inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_neWHzfaWUg Please let me know what you think if you have the time.

Re: water height on skimmer section
Is the water height in the skimmer section determined by the top of the teeth on the baffle or the bottom of the teeth? I always thought it was the bottom of the teeth, but maybe I am wrong? I got to thinking after I read your post.

Re: Eshopps Sumps
Thank you for the link. I am going to study them. Decent price. I think for my cabinet, I need slightly different dimensions to maximize the size of the sump and use the available space in the cabinet. Though I am going to see if one of them may work.

This is getting better! Those two 1" drain holes should be sized for a bulkhead unless you have some other method to keep your plumbing attached to the sump. Also same comments about the tall wall in the middle of your bubble trap - why? It serves no purpose. I don't think the bubble trap could ever get plugged up, but the tall wall is just a waste of glass/acrylic. Also I think 4.5" is going to limit you on what return pump you can use. Could be fine, just make sure the pump you are going to use fits ok in this area.

I think before starting you should get the filter socks that you are going to use. Your design has them going in the top. Most of them that I have seen have hard plastic frames and slide in. I am not sure they are going to work in your design. Also still with that section you are blocking most access to it. What if a large hermit or snail gets in there?

The water height in your skimmer section will be the level of the teeth. Make sure this is the water level specified with your skimmer. You can always raise it up, but if it is too shallow, your skimmer won't work correctly.

Take a look at this sump, I have the RS-100 on one of my tanks. Roughly the size of the one your are building. I don't think you can build this for less then $180.

Reef Aquarium Filtration: Eshopps Reef Sumps

 

[CaCrimson]

Sump update, any more thoughts on my design

I updated my sump design some more taking all of the feedback.

I have decided to have it made in rimless glass with a standard polish rather than acrylic. I am planning to use a CPR Ameka Aquatics Sock-it 7" dual sock holder in the right side of my sump. I am planning on having them silicone an acrylic baffle box in so that I can move it later if need be.

The CS7 Seaside Aquatics skimmer would go in the main chamber area and the return pump in the left. I got a quote for it as it is and it is actually a little cheaper than the acrylic I had quoted.

Does anyone have any ideas if I need to change anything here? Thank you!!!

 

[ReeferBob]

If you are having this built, why are you using acryic for the bubble trap? Acrylic was not designed to attach to glass. It will, but if you can avoid it, you should. Glass is cheaper anyway. Acrylic also expands when it is in the water, so your joints will be stressed and if the builder does not leave enough gap, it will bow the sides of the sump possibly cracking them. Stil not sure why the center piece of the bubble trap is taller.

FYI: Your baffles should have a water-tight seal - at least the one with the teeth.

Good call going with the pre-made sock holders!

Make sure you have enough room for your heater(s) and ATO floats.

 

[CaCrimson]

 

[CaCrimson]

ReeferBob helped me out a lot! Thanks Robert! I updated the design with your suggestions to lower the middle bubble trap baffles, add the ATO, increase the size of my return chamber and use the pre-made CPR Sock-it.

Do you, ReeferBob, or anyone else have any other comments on my design? Thanks to the R2R community for your help =)

 

[danka-cedium]

I like it.