Sump design for 3ft

[mark freshwater]

Hi,
im looking to make a sump with 3 chambers and had a few questions
i want my skimmer on the left ,the middle empty for coral rubble and maybe a invert or something etc,
and return on the right , there are so many different designs.
as i want to utilise the middle section i would like it fairly high, the sump is 18" high and my skimmer water level is best at 10".
heres a few i like , the 1st one is good but the skimmer chamber is the highest point and also the return the lowest ( im not sure wether i would want a higher return level)

The second i like as the middle part (refugium) is high and so is the return

Also should it go from left to right , bubble trap then baffle, or baffle then bubble trap?
Also in the refugium is it better to have coral pebbles or sand? ( does it have to be a fairly slow sump so sand doesnt go anywhere?)
What is the green hair looking stuff that people have in there refugium (macro algae?) and why see below

and is it ok to have a sump beside a DT ? i only have about a 3 inches of room between top of sump and bottom of stand , up underneath the stand has an extra 3 inches to get the skimmer cup etc out

 

[mark freshwater]

This looks ideal expect my baffle heights would be 10", 11", 10", 10"
if i had the refugium on the right could i run 1 of my overflows to the fuge a bit slower than the outlet to the skimmer?

also what are things to consider with a fuge , i read that if its not right the macro aglae will float etc

 

[lapin]

Hi,
1)The 1st one is good but the skimmer chamber is the highest point and also the return the lowest ( im not sure wether i would want a higher return level)

2)The second i like as the middle part (refugium) is high and so is the return
Also should it go from left to right , bubble trap then baffle, or baffle then bubble trap?

3)Also in the refugium is it better to have coral pebbles or sand? ( does it have to be a fairly slow sump so sand doesnt go anywhere?)

4)What is the green hair looking stuff that people have in there refugium (macro algae?)

5)Is it ok to have a sump beside a DT ?

1 You want the first chamber to be the highest so water flows out of this. You can make a stand for your skimmer to raise it to the recommended height.

2 I like a little drop in height between chambers. This way you get the flow going naturally in 1 direction. Stuff stays out of your return pump area. My bubble traps are always before my return chamber. Keeps any micro bubbles from getting pumped into the main display. Micro bubbles can make the water look cloudy.

3 It is a personal preference. Rock rubble, pebbles and sand will all work. I would not suggest a deep sand bed as they need to be maintained. Flow is usually not an issue for sand in a sump because of the baffles.

4 Chaeto. Macro algae. It is used as a nutrient export . Uses nutrients to grow then you remove some to remove nutrients from your tank (nitrates and phosphates) Any macro alage will work . I like the red ones and ulva for a green one.

5 Yes as long as the tank drain is higher than the sump so the tank will drain into the sump. You do not want to pump water into the sump unless the sump will drain into the tank. 2 pumps = disaster if one should fail.

Note on sumps. When the return pump is off you will get drain back into the sump. You need to plan for enough extra water volume so your sump does not overflow.

Have fun with your sump build. Petco $1.00 a gallon tanks are cheap so if ya dont like your first one then you can make it again.

 

[mark freshwater]

Awesome cheers , i've had sumps but only simple ones for cichlids and never had a refugium etc,
thanks for the info makes a lot more sense now

 

[lapin]

Awesome cheers , i've had sumps but only simple ones for cichlids and never had a refugium etc,
thanks for the info makes a lot more sense now

One more thing. If you want to keep macro and critters out of the return area stick a piece of spaghetti mat in between the last baffles. It cuts with sizzors and is easy to use if you make it a tight fit.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aquamesh-blue-3.html

 

[mark freshwater]

I have some but is it to fine?

 

[mark freshwater]

Also does a refugium need extra separate flow etc , i read that without it the macro will just float etc?
i have 2 outlets coming from the tank , could i put 1 into the filter sock , and the other into the refugium at a slower rate?
if so does it need to be breaking the waters surface

 

[lapin]

I think that foam is too dense. Water will not pass thru it fast enough.
You could do 2 flows, 1 in each chamber, but its not required. The macro is going to float. Its 99% water. Some people have the flow just right so the chaeto spins. Light gets to all sides so it grows evenly. My fuge has macro that floats (ulva). If it goes go over the baffle it cant get to the return because of the screen (spaghetti mat). Top grows and underneath dies off a bit. I try to remove the dead stuff along with some live stuff each week to make light avail for the red. The other red macro Gracilaria's and Botryocladia is anchored to the rock rubble I have on the bottom.

 

[mark freshwater]

ok sounds good , i can get some less dense stuff or do they make clip on combs that would sit under the 1st part of the bubble trap ?
or i could glue one on , would this work ?

 

[mark freshwater]

Also for the refugium what type of sand? washed sand like you use for a sand pit? or fine Aragonite etc
And do i need to add anything to the fuge like pods or something? my DT has been running for over 3 months
Thanks again

 

[lapin]

ok sounds good , i can get some less dense stuff or do they make clip on combs that would sit under the 1st part of the bubble trap ?
or i could glue one on , would this work ?

You can use plastic egg crate (light difuser) covered with clear plastic screening, slipped in between the baffles if ya dont want to use spaghetti mat.

Also for the refugium what type of sand? washed sand like you use for a sand pit? or fine Aragonite etc

Bag of coarse aquarium sand will work. Or even rock rubble from your aquascape left overs, or both. Really depends on what sort of creatures you want. Worms require sand. Pods are happy with rock, algae and hard surfaces covered with slime. If you want snails then you will have to look at what they type of surface those snails live on.

And do i need to add anything to the fuge like pods or something? my DT has been running for over 3 months
Thanks again

I would get some chaeto and ulva for macro algaes and if you have a tang get the "tang heaven" alage. Once you have it running and turning brown and green order yourself some pods. If you order them with the algae you migh have to feed them some phyto for a few days until the fuge gets brown with diatoms and green with film algae.

 

[mark freshwater]

Excellent info , thanks again