Sump floods when I turn off return pump

[dputt88]

so I'm running a 240 gal with a 75 gal sump. I am using a bean animal overflow in an external skubbard box. when i turn the return pump off the water level gets almost to the top and after a few minutes enough has trickled down to start overflowing from the sump. I was not the one who put the baffles in the sump otherwise i would have made the standing water level in the sump about an inch or so lower to prevent this, but now that the tank is running it would be difficult to pull the baffles and re silicone them.

I am curious what can be done to fix this. I tried raising the primary drain higher so it is closer to the level of the secondary drain but then it wont start up on its own.

I have also considered putting an anti siphon on the primary drain ( like the secondary drain has) but i was worried if this would make it noisy.

let me know that you think

 

[tdileo]

so I'm running a 240 gal with a 75 gal sump. I am using a bean animal overflow in an external skubbard box. when i turn the return pump off the water level gets almost to the top and after a few minutes enough has trickled down to start overflowing from the sump. I was not the one who put the baffles in the sump otherwise i would have made the standing water level in the sump about an inch or so lower to prevent this, but now that the tank is running it would be difficult to pull the baffles and re silicone them.

I am curious what can be done to fix this. I tried raising the primary drain higher so it is closer to the level of the secondary drain but then it wont start up on its own.

I have also considered putting an anti siphon on the primary drain ( like the secondary drain has) but i was worried if this would make it noisy.

let me know that you think

You can try making something to make the bottom of the grates on your overflow higher so that it cuts off earlier, as well as putting a check valve on your return line. My return back siphoning drains probably an extra 3 gallons into my sump and sometimes that little bit makes all the difference. Another idea is gate or ball valves on both drains. Once you turn the return off, simply close the valves on both drains to be fully closed and the check valve on your return line will take care of the back siphon from the other line. Turning those valves is a bit more work than a fix somebody else may come up with, but it’s what I immediately thought of and it would definitely do the job.

 

[madweazl]

Is water back-siphoning from the return lines as well?

 

[scuzy]

Do you have a siphon break on your return pipping? Can you take out some water in your sump and system still runs fine? Need to see some pictures to see what the issue is.

 

[dputt88]

I have a check valve for my returns, it seems to be working very well.

i have the sump at the lowest level before the return pump start sucking up little bubbles

 

[foxt]

Is your return siphoning water from the tank? If so, you can create siphon breaks by drilling hole(s) in carefully located places im the parts if the return that are submerged in the display tank.

If you are only getting flooded by water coming in from the drain lines, can you raise both the primary and the secondary?

 

[Mortie31]

Can you not use a Dremel to cut an inch off the top off one your baffles?

 

[Erica-Renee]

pictures of your sump and overflow as well as return in tank is needed for best resolutions

 

[ScooterV]

If it's down to a trickle at the end you are probably at least close. Whoever you got it from may have had less return flow resulting in a somewhat lower DT water level. Unless you already have, I would first: Remove enough water so you are sure it won't overflow. Run the pump a bit and then turn it off. Wait until everything has drained back. Then add water back to the sump to a point where there is no flooding and you have your high water mark. Turn your pump back on and in the return chamber you have your running/low mark. Hopefully the baffles still handle it and you'll be set. Otherwise, you could reduce flow and likely make just enough of a difference.

Worst case is check valves, but those scare me. Also, as others mentioned, do you have siphon breaks? I don't trust those either and my sump level was set before adding the breaks only as an extra precaution, but I'm a paranoid type and can't sleep if on vacation then, lol.

 

[Fin]

Personally, I would pull the sump out and make the necessary modifications, or you will be fighting this forever. Should those check valves fail (as they often do), you may have a real mess to clean up. Better yet, use the opportunity to build another sump to fit your needs and just swap it out out when it is ready to use.

 

[jdl513]

If you can raise the elevation of the lowest drain or return that should keep more water in the display when pump is off. A fraction of an inch up on the right drain or return line may be sufficient.

 

[ca1ore]

Something doesn't make sense. Rather than people taking pot shots at a solution, post some pictures of the sump, tank and the scupper box. 75 is a good sized sump for your tank, so unless it's running almost full, there should be plenty of space. Even if your tank drains down a full inch, across a standard 240, that's only about 7.5 gallons.

 

[jtl]

How deep is the water in your sump return section? I try to keep mine just barely covering the return pump so I have room for back draining.

 

[dputt88]

I'll try to get some pics, it's tough because its an in wall build. also, yes the sump does not have a lot of head space and the tanks isn't a standard 240 its a wide 240, 72 x 30 x 25

 

[Neoalchemist]

If you need to lower the running level in the sump. You could just drill a series of 3/8" holes in the baffles to bring the baffle overflow level down. unless the baffles are glass. Then you are S.O.L.
Need Pic's.

 

[scuzy]

It doesn't matter if it's not standards 240. The amount of water is the same.

 

[jtl]

My return section is not affected by the height of the baffles. My return section is in the middle with a refugium on one side set at 13" and the skimmer section on the other side set at 10". I keep the water in my return section at 6", so as to just cover the pump.

 

[ca1ore]

I went and looked at your build thread ...... really nice tank by the way (CTC?)! I see that the weir is a piece of acrylic attached flat to the back of the tank. What is behind it - I assume a few holes in the glass right behind the slots? How far down from the water surface are the bottoms of those holes? That will determine the drain down level of the display and give you a sense of how much water you're talking about. You can raise the height of the primary and secondary I'd think, but you need to make sure there is no leaking where they friction fit into the bulkheads. Also, if you haven't already done so, drill a small hole in the top of the U bends which allows the siphon to start more easily with less head above the U. BTW, I would also strongly advise supporting the pipes that hang down from the scupper box. I'd also take close look at the return check valve; they are notorious for not sealing properly and that could be the source of the trickle. I do agree that whomever built the sump designed it poorly. The two 'over' baffles in the bubble trap are way too tall.

 

[Gareth elliott]

If you lowered the fuge or skimmer water height it should allow you to hold more water before flowing onto the floor.
Why posts above are suggesting the baffles.

The concern i would have is if it does it when your home, its going to do it during a power outage when your not.

 

[ca1ore]

It doesn't matter if it's not standards 240. The amount of water is the same.

Not really. A wider tank will drain down more than a narrower one.