sump help

goody · Jan 10, 2012

I bought a 60g to use as a sump for my 150g upgrade. I had some baffles cut and siliconed them in. I thought they were cut so that my water level from my skimmer section through the fuge would drop. Dumb me I didn't measure. What is the best way to fix this? I don't have the tools to cut the baffles. Should I just get a shorter baffle? If so, what how tall should it be. What if I moved that baffle so that it was after the skimmer baffle and made it an under, would this work?

99taws6 · Jan 10, 2012

Is it glass on glass or are the baffles acrylic? If acrylic you could drill some holes or cut teeth but if you can't cut the baffles not sure you would be able to do that. If glass you probably would have to take out. It's easy to re-silicone them in.

goody · Jan 10, 2012

99taws6 said:
Is it glass on glass or are the baffles acrylic? If acrylic you could drill some holes or cut teeth but if you can't cut the baffles not sure you would be able to do that. If glass you probably would have to take out. It's easy to re-silicone them in.

The baffles are acrylic. Could I use a dremel to cut teeth? Or what kind of drill bit to make holes? I've never worked with acrylic other than siliconing.

99taws6 · Jan 11, 2012

Absolutely!!! A dremel will do just great. Go slow and take your time so it doesn't melt too bad. You can either cut teeth to lower the height, cut out a huge area of it or drill holes to make it the desired height.

Acrylic is just plastic don't be afraid. Lol

goody · Jan 11, 2012

99taws6 said:
Absolutely!!! A dremel will do just great. Go slow and take your time so it doesn't melt too bad. You can either cut teeth to lower the height, cut out a huge area of it or drill holes to make it the desired height.

Acrylic is just plastic don't be afraid. Lol

Thanks will try tonight. Can you recommend what bit to use? I have a dremel with all kinds of types of bits.

99taws6 · Jan 11, 2012

The rotary bit works best for me. Looks kinda like a drill bit. The cutoff wheels are good too. Go slow and you'll do fine

goody · Jan 11, 2012

^^^^Thanks for your replies. I ended up taking it out of the sump and using the dremel. I took off an inch and a half. Not too hard, but now I have to silicon it back in.

99taws6 · Jan 11, 2012

Yw glad I could help. I don't prefer to use silicone on acrylic to glass. If I have the time I use "Goop" and let it dry for 2 days and soak in vinegar water for a day and then rinse really well. Silicone to acrylic isn't the most durable bond as it really doesn't stick.

goody · Jan 13, 2012

Okay...I cut off 1.5" off the baffle using my dremel. But now, a member from my local forum has me concerned about my design and heights of baffles. Please let me know if you think my design will work and also not have any issues with micro bubbles. Will I have any issues with my baffle after the skimmer and the last baffle in bubble trap both being 10"?

boehm742 · Jan 14, 2012

Your fuge is still going to have 10" of water in it with the baffle next to the return being 10" tall. Dosent look like thats what you want in your diagram, didnt know if you noticed...

goody · Jan 14, 2012

boehm742 said:
Your fuge is still going to have 10" of water in it with the baffle next to the return being 10" tall. Dosent look like thats what you want in your diagram, didnt know if you noticed...

That's what I don't want. So I must be confused on how this work. Last time, my return was in the middle, so the baffle heights I didn't really affect each other this much. So do the first and last baffle of the bubble trap have to be the same size OR the last baffle be lower? can I just move the first baffle in the bubble trap to the other side of the fuge and make it an under after the skimmer baffle?

Suggestions on how to get this sump working properly are appreciate. If I can avoid taking removing a baffle and cutting, that would be great, but if I have to, then that is what I will do.

99taws6 · Jan 15, 2012

The only option I see is to lower the last 10" baffle on the return to match the 8.5" on the fuge side.

_Alex_ · Jan 15, 2012

lower the baffle next to the return pump or raise the one on the other side of it to the same hight

99taws6 · Jan 15, 2012

If you raise the one on the fuge side of the return you'll be right back where you were. The water has to drop down out of the skimmer compartment into the fuge and then travel through the baffles into the return.

Lower the baffle closest to your return pump to 8.5" and you'll be set. I personally dont like that design but without a total redo that is what will work.

goody · Jan 15, 2012

99taws6 said:
If you raise the one on the fuge side of the return you'll be right back where you were. The water has to drop down out of the skimmer compartment into the fuge and then travel through the baffles into the return.

Lower the baffle closest to your return pump to 8.5" and you'll be set. I personally dont like that design but without a total redo that is what will work.

Will most likely lower the baffle just before return, but what is the design you like? I'm okay if I have to totally redo.

99taws6 · Jan 15, 2012

I prefer this style for a simple DIY :http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/f/sump_f.html

It allows a slow flow through the fuge and and as much as you want through the return. It's too easy to branch off your return or drain to feed the fuge.

goody · Jan 16, 2012

99taws6 said:
I prefer this style for a simple DIY :Melevsreef.com | Acrylic Sumps & Refugiums

It allows a slow flow through the fuge and and as much as you want through the return. It's too easy to branch off your return or drain to feed the fuge.

I like that design too, and used it on my last sump, but I decided to go with my fuge in middle, instead of return. Wanted to try and keep the plumbing VERY simple.