Sump layout

[walter84]

I am building a110 gallon display with a 55 gallon sump under it that are "new to me". My new arrivals include an SCA-302 skimmer and a Finnex 500w titanium heater. I am new to salt and not sure how to layout everything and want to get it as right as possible the first time. I was thinking of creating a raised platform for skimmer so I could get as much water volume as possible.

Also can anyone give me more details on these sock filters I keep seeing in sump pictures? I am assuming it's for mech filtration.

We are planning to do a deep sand bed with liverock and fish in display. Then after a year or so start trying corals or at least that's the current plan. The display has a 48" T5 light. I was told that's at least a decent starting point for corals?

Now the next question is what am I missing as far as a bare bones starting point?

It's been years since I started a tank fresh. My old freshwater discus tank was up for over 15 years without being broken down.

Here's a picture of it.

 

[mcarroll]

I know based on the pic that you've already got the 55, but I'd consider switching it for a 50 gallon....36x18x18. Much easier to access since it's lower. The wider footprint - 18" vs 12" - give you more room for gear while still having almost equal volume.

I'm also a fan of open sumps vs using baffles. Baffles are fun to watch running, but fairly useless IMO.

 

[LuisPerez711]

The filter socks are used for mechanical filtration and you would need to purchase a sock holder to hang on to the rim of your sump. I personally like the filter socks because they do catch a lot of the crud that the skimmer might miss. Ive never had a problem with them being "nitrate factories." Just swap them out every week and do your normal water changes and you'll be fine.

Now as far as the layout the most commonly used design for the sump is: Drain, skimmer section, refugium (which you wont need due to the DSB), and return pump. If your going to run carbon and gfo, I usually put my reactors into my skimmer section or if they will be external, Id have them return into the skimmer section.

T5 lighting is tried and true and can grow a wide variety of corals depending on the fixture. The only downside, at least to me, would be replacing the bulbs every year. If you'd like to try LED in the future I recommend these inexpensive Chinese LED's made by Ocean Revive called the Arctic-T247. I've had two fixtures so far and both have been amazing! Just some food for thought.

The only other bare bone items your missing are your powerheads and return pump. I usually get a return pump that will do about 5 to 10 time turn over of your total volume. So anywhere between 1000gph and 1600gph is what Id shoot for. Remember to take into account the loss of gph due to head pressure. And if your starting off with a FOWLR tank, then any type of powerhead would do. When you start keeping coral you might want to look into wave making power heads.

One last thing. With the deep sand bed, just make sure you at least have 4 inches of sand all around. Welcome to the reefing community and enjoy and have fun!

 

[saltyhog]

Agree with the comment about switching to a 50 gal. Going to be hard to get a skimmer in and out of that sucker. If you are good at DIY I would recommend doing a set up like several of the prefab sumps have where the drain water flows in to a chamber just for the filter socks. Makes it much easier to change the socks. Here's one example of that setup. http://www.triggersys.com/test/emerald-details/

 

[mikeypereira]

Hey guys
I'm setting up a new 200G reef tank and have ordered two boxes of the Marinepure balls. Surprisingly one of the guys assisting in setting up the tank has told me NOT to put them in the sump and that using these or standard bioballs are an old approach to reefing. That they would become "nitrate factories". This is a standard sump, not refugium with lighting.
Is there any truth to this?

 

[mic209]

I know based on the pic that you've already got the 55, but I'd consider switching it for a 50 gallon....36x18x18. Much easier to access since it's lower. The wider footprint - 18" vs 12" - give you more room for gear while still having almost equal volume.

I'm also a fan of open sumps vs using baffles. Baffles are fun to watch running, but fairly useless IMO.

You should at least baffle off your return pump. With an open sump, if your drains from the tank were to clog, your return pump will empty the entire sump into the display. If you have that section baffled off, it will be only a few gallons that will go into the display if the drain ever clogs. I have never had a drain clog up, but it's better to be safe than sorry.

 

[mcarroll]

You should at least baffle off your return pump. With an open sump, if your drains from the tank were to clog, your return pump will empty the entire sump into the display. If you have that section baffled off, it will be only a few gallons that will go into the display if the drain ever clogs. I have never had a drain clog up, but it's better to be safe than sorry.

I looked at that as a design issue. Consider the things that can actually clog or stop a drain (not much) and act preventatively. There should also be some extra capacity in the tank and sump for "excess water". Et al.

I run a U-tube drain on each of my current tanks...in fact all of the tanks I've had for the last many, many years...and never had a clog or stop issue. I don't think that's a hard record to achieve either.

I also don't like having no option of using the tank for something else or moving the return pump at some future date.

But, if you must have a wall - have a wall!

If you want a refugium, build a wall at the opposite end of the sump for that too...pump water over the wall into the refugium and let the fuge wall drain back into the main sump.

But keep it to what's needed....don't eliminate any open space you don't need to IMO.

 

[boscom77]

Had my original 10 gallon aquarium sump crack a few weeks back so i had a chance to redesign with a refugium and i have to say it sucks that my original one cracked but it worked out cuz i love my new one!