Sump overflow after power outage

[PoorReefer]

So I had a power outage last night and luckily woke about an hour after to move my 2 clowns from QT to DT where I had a battery backup (they were only a little over a week in QT but at least their not dead).
Now water drained from my DT to sump, but it didn't stop siphoning from the return before spilling about 3 gallons of water on my floor. I know I need air to break the siphon, but why didn't the the siphon break when the top part of the return was above the water line? A pic is on its way.

 

[homer1475]

Waiting on pic......

What I ended up doing.... Center tower style overflow with the returns plumbed into the overflow. I just drilled 2 small holes in the T section of my return line in the overflow. Breaks the siphon, and as an added bonus, it fills the overflow faster.

 

[PoorReefer]

 

[PoorReefer]

I still get siphon from bottom pipe. And that's my tiny little clown in the back, poor guys were running out of oxygen in their little 20g.

 

[homer1475]

All the return is underwater except the top piece(including the T).

Raise the T so it's not underwater, and it will break the siphon.

 

[GlassMunky]

Because you have the one return line so far down inside the tank, that line is acting as a siphon.
you need to move the return line so that it is positioned just below the water line so that as soon as any water drains from the tank the return pulls air and breaks the siphon

 

[PoorReefer]

Ok, so if I raise the T it should solve the problem? Or do both pipes need to be at water level?

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Sometimes the siphon can be strong enough to sip more water even after you start taking in air. When I turn my return pump off, after the everything settles the water level in the DT is slightly below the return outlets.

If you have locklines, you can raise your return lines a tiny bit. Some have drilled a small hole in the lockline to start breaking the siphon earlier. But it can get clogged.

Alternatively, you can lower the water level in the sump by a few gallons to account for the return drain. Honestly, this is something that should be done while designing/installing the sump.

Hopefully others can chime in with their suggestions, I'm fairly new to reefing so might be just talking out of my "third point of contact."


EDIT: Some fast typers here haha... What they said. Raise the lockline.

 

[homer1475]

You can leave the one end underwater, just raise the T so it is not. Air will not enter as the water will stop right where the top line meets the water level and continue to siphon out the bottom piece.

 

[PoorReefer]

ok great. It makes sense now that you pointed it out. Luckily the fish lived, I can clean water and repair a floor but I can't bring a fish back.

 

[Dom]

Install a check valve on your return line.

True Union Check Valve

Spears makes the highest quality True Union check valves. Use them to add a last line of defense against overflows. Check valves allow one directional water flow and are used to prevent back siphoning. They are commonly used on return pump outputs to prevent water overflowing the sump in the...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[homer1475]

Never rely on a check valve. They will fall when you need it most.

Of course if you clean it regularly(like most people won't), then it will work fine. But better to plan for draindown then rely on a check valve.

 

[New&no clue]

Hi, sorry not to jump on your thread with a random question, but what battery backup do you have for your DT? I lost power this weekend for 36ish hours, I have a generator but it would have been nice to have the battery backup as well.

 

[PoorReefer]

I have an ecotech one for my power head. I read that it's imperative to make sure the fish has water circulation to ensure oxygen is in the tank.

 

[PoorReefer]

I going to buy a UPS (uniterrupted power supply) so that I can add a heater. I think I read the heat loss and oxygen loss are big killers

 

[homer1475]

I know for a fact my 80G cube can go 8 hours with no power. We had a 32 hour power outage the other day, ran the genny till we went to bed. Woke up 8 hours later to the power still being out. Came back on a few minutes later. Everything is fine.

 

[dwest]

Whatever you do to change the lock line, simulate a power outage by turning off your return pump. You want to see what the system does while you are watching it, not when you are sleeping. Good luck.

 

[New&no clue]

I have an ecotech one for my power head. I read that it's imperative to make sure the fish has water circulation to ensure oxygen is in the tank.

Can that only be used on EchoTech products or can you use it for anything? I have a batter air pump I put in the tank to get oxygen, but what I'm worried about is heat. I live in Maine, when power goes out it is usually because of a storm, which means its cold. When I turn my generator off at night the temp in the tank can drop 8 degrees. Everyone was fine, but I don't want to risk it. This storm was in April so temps were in the 30+ range, in January we are negative numbers.

 

[tamanning]

Never rely on a check valve. They will fall when you need it most.

Of course if you clean it regularly(like most people won't), then it will work fine. But better to plan for draindown then rely on a check valve.

check valves and salt water not good!! Drill a small hole in your t and check it on occasion to keep it clear you should not have that problem again.

 

[homer1475]

check valves and salt water not good!! Drill a small hole in your t and check it on occasion to keep it clear you should not have that problem again.

Not exactly sure why you quoted me, as we both agree not to rely on a check valve.