Sump overflow for AIO? (All In One)

nanotropics

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 8, 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Bellevue
What state or country do you live in
Washington
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hello I have a waterbox cube 20 right now everything is running great. In the future I wanted to double my water capacity with a sump (equipped w/ protein skimmer, refugium) and add a pair of dragonets. I know the options for overflow are drilling or hob.
I wanted to ask here if anyone has tried hang on back with an AIO aquarium?
Also, if so would you recommend any particular overflow? Or would fabricating one myself be better?

image.jpg
 
Your Waterbox 20 should already have an overflow int he back, right? If so, use an old-fashioned HOB overflow that pulls water out of there ... that way you don't add unnecessary hardware into your display
 
Your Waterbox 20 should already have an overflow int he back, right? If so, use an old-fashioned HOB overflow that pulls water out of there ... that way you don't add unnecessary hardware into your display
Yes I’m just worried that if there is a clog or siphon break my tank will flood.
On the other hand I’ve noticed I can reduce my water level in the overflow section while still running the return pump.

Maybe if I temporarily move the heater to the display and lower the water back there, I could drill while the tank was stocked.

I’d just put something inside the compartments to catch any glass dust that goes inwards and drill my two holes in the back and kinda use the existing compartments in the overflow as my overflow box for the drain/return.

Does this sound legit?
 
I have never tried drilling a tank while it had livestock in it ... I'm sure there is a way to do it carefully, but it is not something I would advocate.

Instead, you can solve your flooding problem by ensuring that the compartment within the sump that contains your return pump is only big enough for the pump, and has a weir/bubble trap that control the water level in the sump before it gets to the return (or that the return pump itself is mounted high in the sump) ... that way, if the drain line from the display to the tank is interrupted for any reason (plug or siphon break), then the return pump will very quickly suck air (even though the rest of the sump still has water in it).
 
I have never tried drilling a tank while it had livestock in it ... I'm sure there is a way to do it carefully, but it is not something I would advocate.

Instead, you can solve your flooding problem by ensuring that the compartment within the sump that contains your return pump is only big enough for the pump, and has a weir/bubble trap that control the water level in the sump before it gets to the return (or that the return pump itself is mounted high in the sump) ... that way, if the drain line from the display to the tank is interrupted for any reason (plug or siphon break), then the return pump will very quickly suck air (even though the rest of the sump still has water in it).
 
My cobalt c-vue 40 tank was a AIO, however you can drill in the sump compartment in the back on the bottom. I'm not sure if Waterbox is able to do that, but maybe just send them an email and ask if this is drill-able and if so which panel can it be done on.

I also have a Cube 20, just running a Tunze 9001 in the middle compartment, its a great tank.
 
Is there a noticeable difference in waste with the nano skimmer?
My cobalt c-vue 40 tank was a AIO, however you can drill in the sump compartment in the back on the bottom. I'm not sure if Waterbox is able to do that, but maybe just send them an email and ask if this is drill-able and if so which panel can it be done on.

I also have a Cube 20, just running a Tunze 9001 in the middle compartment, its a great tank.
 
I have never tried drilling a tank while it had livestock in it ... I'm sure there is a way to do it carefully, but it is not something I would advocate.

Instead, you can solve your flooding problem by ensuring that the compartment within the sump that contains your return pump is only big enough for the pump, and has a weir/bubble trap that control the water level in the sump before it gets to the return (or that the return pump itself is mounted high in the sump) ... that way, if the drain line from the display to the tank is interrupted for any reason (plug or siphon break), then the return pump will very quickly suck air (even though the rest of the sump still has water in it).

That precise of a scenario is going to pretty much require an ATO to keep it from sucking air due to evap. On the other hand the ATO makes that scenario unworkable as it will just keep adding water as the DT floods.
 
I have never tried drilling a tank while it had livestock in it ... I'm sure there is a way to do it carefully, but it is not something I would advocate.

Instead, you can solve your flooding problem by ensuring that the compartment within the sump that contains your return pump is only big enough for the pump, and has a weir/bubble trap that control the water level in the sump before it gets to the return (or that the return pump itself is mounted high in the sump) ... that way, if the drain line from the display to the tank is interrupted for any reason (plug or siphon break), then the return pump will very quickly suck air (even though the rest of the sump still has water in it).
Alright, so I’m running a sicca 1.5 up top right now. By return pump only big enough for the pump do you mean gallons per hour, or size of the pump itself relative to the compartment?
 
That precise of a scenario is going to pretty much require an ATO to keep it from sucking air due to evap. On the other hand the ATO makes that scenario unworkable as it will just keep adding water as the DT floods.
Very true thanks for the insight, I think I only really have two options then either drilling 2 holes and using the filtration area in the back to act as the overflow box, or adding an overflow to the 2nd compartment (still drilling). I assume I’d have to take my filtration out of the back and move it down to the sump, is this true?
 
Very true thanks for the insight, I think I only really have two options then either drilling 2 holes and using the filtration area in the back to act as the overflow box, or adding an overflow to the 2nd compartment (still drilling). I assume I’d have to take my filtration out of the back and move it down to the sump, is this true?

Yes in my opinion unless you want to use a hob overflow. I know some do that, but personally it scares me too much I would always be worried about it.

If I was doing it I would still use the filter sock in the first chamber on the WB20 if it is designed the way I have seen WB. Then would drill my the overflow in the middle and the return to DT in the third compartment and incorporate it with the existing nozzle.
 
Yes in my opinion unless you want to use a hob overflow. I know some do that, but personally it scares me too much I would always be worried about it.

If I was doing it I would still use the filter sock in the first chamber on the WB20 if it is designed the way I have seen WB. Then would drill my the overflow in the middle and the return to DT in the third compartment and incorporate it with the existing nozzle.
1BC9410E-FF80-45B7-B67F-0F71FA82D45D.jpeg

This is very crude but like this? And the 2nd chamber would be empty? The sicca 1.5 return pump I have now in the 3rd compartment does about 300gph with the drilling method how would I calculate what gph I would need for the drainage & return to DT.
Would I be installing an overflow box & then pipe for the drainage or just have a bare pipe there?

also ignore the green pump and pretend the right red line connects to the sump return
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top