Sump

I have a 70g display/30 gallon sump going for 6 months. No skimmer, bare bottom, change filter socks once a week, 1 gallon AWC/day: <2 nitrate, 0-.01 phosphate. Chaeto and bare bottom is doing way more than a skimmer ever did on previous tanks I had.

How do you oxygenate your tank so its doesn't get overly built up with CO2 gases?
 
The skimmer is the filter.

And you say you have no interest in a bigger now :p
Lol.

What happens if the return pump breaks? Does the overflow stop working once the sump hits a certain level or will it just overflow?
 
If I may jump in.

The first thing to think about when using a sump/refuge is how to get water down and up. The 40 will not be drilled, so 2 options. Drill the tank for holes to attaché the drain and return to and from the sump. Or use a hang on back overflow which really is not the best set up.

The tank can be run successfully multiple ways. A good hang on back set up may be the easiest until you get a little more research and familiar with sumps and how to set them up.

Just a suggestion. Hope you have a good night.
 
Lol.

What happens if the return pump breaks? Does the overflow stop working once the sump hits a certain level or will it just overflow?
Your overflow should be high enough that only a few gallons goes down before it stops and you have enough space in your sump does not overfill.

Take your overflow water level, take for example your water drops 1 inch, in a 40 gallon breeder that is about 3 gallons so make sure you have 3 gallons of space in the sump
 
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Do your research on different ways to set it up. Don’t forget to cover yourself in case of a power interruption. A hob skimmer will lose it prime and your return pump will still start up without the overflow draining into the sump. It would require a vacuum pump on the hob overflow to restart. Another reason the drilled skimmer is better.
 
I disagree, most hob overflows don't lose their prime. I have my pump off often for feeding or maintenance and never have lost the prime. It start flowing again with no problem.

And what is a drilled skimmer?
 
I disagree, most hob overflows don't lose their prime. I have my pump off often for feeding or maintenance and never have lost the prime. It start flowing again with no problem.

And what is a drilled skimmer?
Drilled tank for the skimmer
 
WWC can afford using a 200g box of Tropic Marin a month in waterchanges. Lol!
Just for your reference. BRS cost analysis by cost per gallon instead of cost per bucket:

Screenshot_20190213-201235_Facebook.jpg
 
Do your research on different ways to set it up. Don’t forget to cover yourself in case of a power interruption. A hob skimmer will lose it prime and your return pump will still start up without the overflow draining into the sump. It would require a vacuum pump on the hob overflow to restart. Another reason the drilled skimmer is better.
I have a backup battery in case of power failure.
 
I disagree, most hob overflows don't lose their prime. I have my pump off often for feeding or maintenance and never have lost the prime. It start flowing again with no problem.

And what is a drilled skimmer?
Which overflow do you use?
 
Just for your reference. BRS cost analysis by cost per gallon instead of cost per bucket:

Screenshot_20190213-201235_Facebook.jpg

Lou, thank you for this reminder. I look forward to seeing you at MACNA. Do you have a link to this chart or was it a screen capture from a BRS video? TIA
 
What would you use to drill the hole? How big of a hole should it be?

Well, if you were to drill the tank yourself, there would be anywhere between two and five holes in it. However, you also say you're not a big fan of diy. Custom plumbing and tank drilling is pretty diy intensive. If it's a challenge you're eager to take on, I'm certain you could do it. But... diy isn't always the least expensive solution, particularly if you don't already own a number of the tools you'll need. I fancy myself to be pretty handy and I had a tough time plumbing my tank. You might be happier finding a used setup you like, looking into an all in one, or getting a little help from local reefers. Also, I'm not saying hang on back overflows do not work. I'm just saying that if I were buying and setting up a brand new system, I wouldn't design it with one.
 
Your overflow should be high enough that only a few gallons goes down before it stops and you have enough space in your sump does not overfill.

Take your overflow water level, take for example your water drops 1 inch, in a 40 gallon breeder that is about 3 gallons so make sure you have 3 gallons of space in the sump
Instead of upgrading to a 40, do you think I could put a 10 gallon sump on my 20 and it would reduce the amount of times I need to water change?
 
Instead of upgrading to a 40, do you think I could put a 10 gallon sump on my 20 and it would reduce the amount of times I need to water change?

A larger tank will be more stable. Smaller the tank, the more water evaporating will cause salinity swings unless you are using an ATO, for example. I would go as big as you can go on tank.
 
A larger tank will be more stable. Smaller the tank, the more water evaporating will cause salinity swings unless you are using an ATO, for example. I would go as big as you can go on tank.
Holy cow, you just indirectly solved a problem for me. My light is causing my tank to heat up significantly so I purchased a fan. The fan is now causing a significant amount of evaporation. I've been trying to time it so it loses less water but it's been super difficult. Your mere suggestion of an ATO is really going to help me out with this problem. Thanks, bud! As you can probably tell, I am new to the hobby :)
 
I would save your pennies, and get a 35-40 gallon "All in one" with auto-top-off, skimmer, the works..... it will require a lot less work on your part, and you'll enjoy your tank more.

EDIT: Not necessarily "this" one, but this is the idea I'm thinking of.... I have no idea about this brand/components/etc.... and it's bigger than you want..... but something "like" this. Not sure if this has an ATO either.

https://www.amazon.com/Starfire-Aqu...ea+reef+tank&qid=1559168822&s=gateway&sr=8-46
 
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Lots of good information here but also some confusing info.

Yes HOB overflows can lose their syphon but it is rare that they do and it's usually caused by user error. If you lose power the syphon stays in place like a vacuum but no water moves in or out until the siphon starts again.

An HOB overflow will be the easiest option.

Buying a 40 and drilling it yourself or having a local store drill it for you is the best option and you don't have to worry much about space behind your tank like you would with a HOB overflow.

The more total volume the better so a 60g total system made up of a 40g tank and 20 sump is more than enough but remember your sump will most likely be holding closer to 10 because you want to account for backflow from the DT through the Return incase of a power outage so you're really closer to 50g total water volume.

Which glass tanks you want to stick to glass baffled as acrylic doesn't adhere properly to glass with silicon. Glass to glass is the best option.

How many Chambers you need is up to you. You can get away with as little as two 1 for skimmer/refugium and 1 for the return or you can add as many as you like. Want a skimmer, refugium and biogical media chamber then you can do that.
 
My sump I went cheap, a 20 gallon long with 3 "chambers." One side has my skimmer and some live rock, then a sheet of acrylic I got from the hardware store to use as a bubble catch, then I have my refugium which is a plastic weave basket I got from Target to hold my chaeto, then after that is my return pump. Nothing fancy but gets the job done.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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