Super Impressed with Triton Tests and their recommendations...attached

[Zagreus]

I just received my first test results and their help and recommendations which I am frankly very impressed with. After reading everything and considering I am a Chemistry Layman, here is my plan of action. Do you think I am missing anything?

What I got from the results and recommendations below:

1. Get rid of all my GFO. If i even need it, only use very small doses of AL99 or RowaPhos/PhosBan
2. Stop using Red Sea Reef Color A,B,C,D program or at least parts of it as I am high and low in areas that overlap like High Molybdenum, Strontium, Lithium, and Iodine Low and look for another trace element approach.
3. Consider changing from Red Sea Blue bucket to a more balanced salt with trace elements
4. Add a couple more water changes to the schedule
5. Add some Iodine and maybe Magnesium

Filter
DetectionAction
We detected elements in your water that can be harmful for your tank.
More information about each element is listed below.

We recommend to carry out 6 x 15% water changes with TRITON PURE 2.0 or other recommended salt, spread over 6 weeks.

Low levels of Aluminium have been found in your system.
This is normal if you are using an aluminium based PO4 media. However try to find the contamination. To assist you in finding the source of error, we have listed them the most common sources of aluminium (sorted in descending order of frequency):
1. Aluminium based Phosphate remover
2. Zeolite
3. Metals in water
Use ROWAphos phosphate media to remove the aluminium.

Low levels of Lead have been found in your system.
Although not as dangerous at very low levels it is important that you check your system for any possible contaminations. To assist you in finding the source of error, we have listed the most common sources of lead (sorted in descending order of frequency):
1. Contaminated sea salt mixtures
2. Contaminated salts such as calcium chloride
3. Contaminated trace elements
4. Contaminated feed for fish or coral
If you have problems in your tank, TRITON DETOX should be applied before the water changes.
Application DETOX: Take activated carbon and Phosphate media out of the system, add 3ml Detox / 100l of aquarium water. After 3 days, put on fresh activated carbon (Phosphate media can now also be introduced again), activated carbon should be changed after 7 days.
Monitor levels over future ICP-OES tests.

Your Potassium levels are slightly elevated.
Check for sources of contamination. To help you in your search for the source of error, we have listed the most common potassium sources (sorted in descending order of frequency):
1. Trace element overdose / contamination
2. Bacterial Products
3. Contaminated salts
If you have problems in your tank, such as bacteria bloom, we recommend to carry out 4 x 15% water changes with TRITON PURE 2.0 salt, spread over 4 weeks.
Monitor with future ICP-OES tests.

Your Bromine levels are slightly low.
WARNING! Dosage only to be carried out by advanced reef keepers.
Due to the possible hazardous nature of dosing Bromine the dosage amounts include a safety factor to ensure that the risk of overdose is reduced. This may result in further dosing being required with subsequent ICP testing.
Please follow the directions on the Dose tab.

Your Strontium levels are too high. Check for sources of contamination. To help you in your search for the source of error, we have listed the most common sources of strontium (sorted in descending order of frequency):
1. Strontium-overdose
2. Salts / salt mixes
If there are problems in the aquarium, we recommend a water change weekly by 15% for 4 weeks, with TRITON PURE 2.0 salt.

Your Sulphur levels are slightly elevated.
Check for possible contamination source. To help you in your search for the source of error, we have listed the most common sources of sulphur (sorted in descending order of frequency):
1. The salt used has possibly too high a sulphur value
2. Bacterial solutions
3. Food
4. Trace elements
Monitor with future ICP-OES tests.

Your Lithium levels are slightly elevated.
Check for possible contamination source. To help you in your search for the source of error, we have listed them the most common lithium sources (sorted in descending order of frequency):
1. Trace element overdose / contamination
2. Contaminated salts / contaminated magnesium salts
3. Artificial Rock/ Reef ceramics
4. Food
If you are dosing additional lithium on top of regular doses then stop.

Your Molybdenum levels are too high. This can lead to severe bacterial growth (Cyano, etc.).
Check for possible contamination source. To assist you in finding the source of error, we have listed them the most common sources of molybdenum (sorted in descending order of frequency):
1. Trace element overdose / contamination
2. Food
3. Contaminated salts

Your Iron levels are slightly elevated.
Check for possible contamination source. To help you in finding the source of error, we have listed the most common sources of iron (sorted in descending order of frequency):
1. Trace element overdose / contamination
2. Metals near or in the aquarium (as rusty clamps or screws)
3. Iron based Phosphate remover (too much flow in reactor)
4. Low pH in the aquarium
If you have problems in your tank, we recommend to carry out 4 x 15% water changes with TRITON PURE 2.0 salt, spread over 4 weeks.
If you are dosing additional iron on top of regular doses then stop.

Your Silicon levels are slightly elevated.
Check for possible contamination source. To help you in finding the source of error, we have listed the most frequent sources of contamination for silicon (sorted in descending order of frequency):
1. RO/DI Supply
2. Iron based phosphate remover (not RowaPhos or PhosBan)
3. SIPORAX Type media
4. Ceramics
Renew PO4 media, use AL99 or RowaPhos/PhosBan

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

IMO, Triton recommendations are devised on maintaining particular levels, but not whether those levels are needed. I do not think most of those corrections are needed.

 

[Zagreus]

IMO, Triton recommendations are devised on maintaining particular levels, but not whether those levels are needed. I do not think most of those corrections are needed.

Thank you, that is very helpful. Do you think I should take either of these actions based upon the results @RandyHolmes-Farley ?
1. Cut out remaining GFO based upon Fe levels and low PO4?
2. Cut at a minimum the red sea coral color color thats giving me high Molybdenum?

Any other actions you think I should take?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Here's my take away...

Salinity seems high. What do you think it is?

I would NOT use any aluminum based binder, since aluminum is elevated. I'd stick with GFO. Are you using any aluminum media at the moment? It's not a critical level, based on my tox testing, but it is getting close.

The high lithium is no concern.

Stop dosing potassium. The strontium is not a concern, but I wouldn't dose any.

Not sure why your sulfate is high. It can come from using too much Epsom salt for magnesium dosing. It may not be a problem.

Odd for molybdenum and iron to be high. It might be from excessive trace elements (Red Sea loves iron), or maybe a rusting metal part.

 

[ChiCity]

IMO, Triton recommendations are devised on maintaining particular levels, but not whether those levels are needed. I do not think most of those corrections are needed.

This...
I personally think the test is designed to sell proprietary products.
But there are others that swear by it, so to each their own I suppose

 

[Zagreus]

Here's my take away...

Salinity seems high. What do you think it is?
I would NOT use any aluminum based binder, since aluminum is elevated. I'd stick with GFO. Are you using any aluminum media at the moment? It's not a critical level, based on my tox testing, but it is getting close.
The high lithium is no concern.
Stop dosing potassium. The strontium is not a concern, but I wouldn't dose any.
Not sure why your sulfate is high. It can come from using too much Epsom salt for magnesium dosing. It may not be a problem.
Odd for molybdenum and iron to be high. It might be from excessive trace elements (Red Sea loves iron), or maybe a rusting metal part.

Thank you so much for your help. I am responding point by point to your questions and recommendations. Thank you @RandyHolmes-Farley

1. Not sure why my salinity is high as maybe I am mixing the salt to strong and my refractometer needs to be re-calibrated and or not enough RODI water in the ATO. I will check all three. How could you tell as I did not see salinity in the report. Did you calculate from the raw elemental levels? Is there a salt you recommend?
2. For GFO I have been using BRS Bulk GFO Granular Ferric Oxide - High Capacity. I am not sure if there is Aluminum in it or where the AI is coming from . I keep it in a filter sock in my media basket and try to wedge it between some stiff carbon pads so it does not tumble. I was concerned this is where my high FE was coming from and thought my P04 to be low so I would remove outright?
3. Thank you
4. Thank you think the potassium issue is the Red Sea color program. Will eliminate potassium.
5. Sulfate not sure. I use a little NOPOX like 1-2 ml daily. In terms of Magnesium I have in the past dosed with Red Sea Magnesium but it has been a few weeks. I use Red Sea Blue Bucket salt.
6. In terms of molybdenum and iron being high i definitely use 2ml Red Sea Colors A,B,C,D weekly per my calcium re-uptake. But this stuff is mixed together in a way where i am not sure i can separate so i am thinking about dropping the Red Sea Color Program.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

1. Not sure why my salinity is high as maybe I am mixing the salt to strong and my refractometer needs to be re-calibrated and or not enough RODI water in the ATO. I will check all three. How could you tell as I did not see salinity in the report. Did you calculate from the raw elemental levels? Is there a salt you recommend?

Just a very rough analysis. There is a spreadsheet around to do it, but all of the major cations tested are elevated, especially sodium. So the salinity must be higher than 35 ppt.

This high salinity is part of the reason the sulfur (sulfate) is high. Same for potassium. Both are higher than just from salinity, however.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

2. For GFO I have been using BRS Bulk GFO Granular Ferric Oxide - High Capacity. I am not sure if there is Aluminum in it or where the AI is coming from . I keep it in a filter sock in my media basket and try to wedge it between some stiff carbon pads so it does not tumble. I was concerned this is where my high FE was coming from and thought my P04 to be low so I would remove outright?

I used BRS GFO and had less than the Triton set point of aluminum. It is not a substantial source, IMO. It might even be a sink.

I dosed iron and used that GFO, and had no detectable iron. The GFO is not driving it that high.

 

[Scott.h]

I'm a bit surprised at all the ups and downs of your results. I have 3 systems, two of which are full triton systems. I started triton in may. Prior to (coincidentally) I've used pro reef salt for a few years prior, as we can't get triton salt anyway. (Pro reef was recommended by triton). I'm not a big advocate of salt brand, as I'd have no problem using instant ocean or RS blue bucket.

Before starting triton I did regular weekly water changes. My first test from each tank was pretty much identical. When it comes to salts, none of the salts contain what I consider minor trace elements. It's salt with alk, mag, and cal, with some major trace elements. Yet everyone claims their salt superior. Aside from that, my salt out of the box is high in mg, mn, fe. It lacked all of the minors, most undetectable including iodine.

If you really want to chase numbers (I do as I like to screw with stuff as part of the fun) then my advice is to keep using your RS salt and do some 20%-25% water changes to balance stuff out. It's obvious to me that the Red Sea "a b c d" is throwing the numbers around, some too much, some not "enough". You can't add magic bottles and expect it to balance. Every tank would use more of one while allowing a build up of another.

The good news is despite you feeling like your results are a mess, it's on the edge of catastrophic failure, and needs instant correction - it's not. The worst thing you have going on is the aluminum. I've experienced big problems with lower levels then what you have. Water changes are the only way to correct that. I don't like gfo and don't use it, but I'd continue to use an iron based gfo to keep phosphate at or below .03, unless you don't have an algae issue. My oldest tank reads something like .08. (Last I cared to check) I don't use it and ironically I have no algae issues or problems with that system at all.

I'll see if I can't find my original triton test to show a comparison

 

[Zagreus]

I'm a bit surprised at all the ups and downs of your results. I have 3 systems, two of which are full triton systems. I started triton in may. Prior to (coincidentally) I've used pro reef salt for a few years prior, as we can't get triton salt anyway. (Pro reef was recommended by triton). I'm not a big advocate of salt brand, as I'd have no problem using instant ocean or RS blue bucket.

Before starting triton I did regular weekly water changes. My first test from each tank was pretty much identical. When it comes to salts, none of the salts contain what I consider minor trace elements. It's salt with alk, mag, and cal, with some major trace elements. Yet everyone claims their salt superior. Aside from that, my salt out of the box is high in mg, mn, fe. It lacked all of the minors, most undetectable including iodine.

If you really want to chase numbers (I do as I like to screw with stuff as part of the fun) then my advice is to keep using your RS salt and do some 20%-25% water changes to balance stuff out. It's obvious to me that the Red Sea "a b c d" is throwing the numbers around, some too much, some not "enough". You can't add magic bottles and expect it to balance. Every tank would use more of one while allowing a build up of another.

The good news is despite you feeling like your results are a mess, it's on the edge of catastrophic failure, and needs instant correction - it's not. The worst thing you have going on is the aluminum. I've experienced big problems with lower levels then what you have. Water changes are the only way to correct that. I don't like gfo and don't use it, but I'd continue to use an iron based gfo to keep phosphate at or below .03, unless you don't have an algae issue. My oldest tank reads something like .08. (Last I cared to check) I don't use it and ironically I have no algae issues or problems with that system at all.

I'll see if I can't find my original triton test to show a comparison

Thank you for the response. I'm actually not that stressed about the results and happy to have my testing kits verified and to finally know the results of the red sea trace element program. I am hoping I can slowly improve based upon Randy and your suggestions. Yesterday I did a 20% water change and don't plan to change salt red sea blue unless my next test shows little improvment from the changes I am making. As you wrote Ialso cut the red sea color program and I've already been ramping down my GFO for over 2-3 months and took the last of it out yesterday. I added a little iodine as that was low. The 20% water change I did yesterday irritated my SPS for sure. So break it up into two 10% changes Monday and Friday per week for 5 more weeks.
I'm gonna try to keep it simple and keep an eye on my phosphates just in case they get too high and see if the water changes remove any other harmful elements after my next Triton test in 6 weeks.

Send me your info on triton. I was thinking about using their base element program after I feel like I got my tank in a little better shape. As I run a all in one system, I don't really have any room for a fuge and not sure I wanna buy a Pax bellum algae reactor as that may really strip nitrate and phosphate at a higher level that I want. Anyway thank you.

 

[Scott.h]

I was going to suggest switching to vingar too. I've never used nopox but I've been told that can lead to a build up on something vs just using vinegar or vodka. Plus it's cheap.


These results are from a several year old softie system using Tropic Marin PR salt. I used to do 10-17% water changes depending on how things looked. I dosed nothing but soda ash. This was my first test results.

Since then I converted it to triton. This is what I've done to the sump to accommodate nutrients:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/m...trate-system-converted-to-full-triton.325865/

 

[leicaguy]

I am using full triton in a 125, My first ICP demonstrated low magnesium, and Iodine really that was it, they also advised some obscure elements to add,(I did not add them) after 55 years in the hobby keeping it simple and stable is the idea I most go for. Salt I use is Tropic Marine pro but I have used them all!

 

[madweazl]

Using the calculator mentioned by Randy, salinity would be approx 35.7.