Super murky yellow water

Yes exactly kh coralline gro, how would that be the source of my problem?

I am curious why you say that would be the problem. Its just a alk + potassium + trace element mixture.

as you said @Spare time potassium + trace elements on a crazy dose by the looks and the op with the crazy feeding is adding nitrogen and phosphorus. Mix them all in a reef tank and we got the perfect NPK fertiliser for phytoplankton.

phytoplankton includes dinoflagellates and diatoms species.

this wouldn’t be a major problem if nitrates and phosphates were to be maintained detectable.
 
as you said @Spare time potassium + trace elements on a crazy dose by the looks and the op with the crazy feeding is adding nitrogen and phosphorus. Mix them all in a reef tank and we got the perfect NPK fertiliser for phytoplankton.

phytoplankton includes dinoflagellates and diatoms species.

this wouldn’t be a major problem if nitrates and phosphates were to be maintained detectable.
I can replace my alk source with baking soda, that should get rid of the problem with the extra trace elements in the kh gro. But nitrates where at 0 when this started i have raised them now because of the Dinos, and phosphate is still at 0, so i dont see how that would make it less of a problem?
 
I'm not sure if this is related to the issue, but your tank temperature is fairly high. Most people keep their temps at around 77-79 (25-26 C), and yours is 82 F (28 C). I would slowly lower it if you can, but hopefully other people will chime in.
 
I can replace my alk source with baking soda, that should get rid of the problem with the extra trace elements in the kh gro. But nitrates where at 0 when this started i have raised them now because of the Dinos, and phosphate is still at 0, so i dont see how that would make it less of a problem?
Baking soda is a better alternative although I feel that in such a new tank without coral you don’t really need to add it.

the best option you have now is to perform a few large water changes to remove all that fertiliser and increase phosphates to detectable levels. From there allow for the system to mature
 
I'm not sure if this is related to the issue, but your tank temperature is fairly high. Most people keep their temps at around 77-79 (25-26 C), and yours is 82 F (28 C). I would slowly lower it if you can, but hopefully other people will chime in.
I raised it because i read that the higher temp would help kill Dinos, usually i have been running it at 25-26 C
 
Baking soda is a better alternative although I feel that in such a new tank without coral you don’t really need to add it.

the best option you have now is to perform a few large water changes to remove all that fertiliser and increase phosphates to detectable levels. From there allow for the system to mature
I have just experienced that my system consumes alk, what could be using it? I do agree that it seems excessive for only the corals..
 
as you said @Spare time potassium + trace elements on a crazy dose by the looks and the op with the crazy feeding is adding nitrogen and phosphorus. Mix them all in a reef tank and we got the perfect NPK fertiliser for phytoplankton.

phytoplankton includes dinoflagellates and diatoms species.

this wouldn’t be a major problem if nitrates and phosphates were to be maintained detectable.


Ah ok I see what you mean
 
I have just experienced that my system consumes alk, what could be using it? I do agree that it seems excessive for only the corals..
Maybe a question for Randy, I would just be guessing here.
 
I would also agree there there is no reason to dose (especially 12ml worth) at this time.

Possibly it is absorbing into the new rock or precipitating - but I can't begin to imagine the system using 12ml worth without any coral or a serious covering of coralline.
 
I would also agree there there is no reason to dose (especially 12ml worth) at this time.

Possibly it is absorbing into the new rock or precipitating - but I can't begin to imagine the system using 12ml worth without any coral or a serious covering of coralline.
I have one small frogspawn and a small zoa frag, so its important to keep my alk above a certain point would i think?
 
I have one small frogspawn and a small zoa frag, so its important to keep my alk above a certain point would i think?
Regular water changes should make up for any loss at this point - zoas are not a stony coral / have no skeleton so the only thing in the tank which has a real need is the frogspawn, but as a single head and settling in there is likely very little consumption happening there as well.
 
Regular water changes should make up for any loss at this point - zoas are not a stony coral / have no skeleton so the only thing in the tank which has a real need is the frogspawn, but as a single head and settling in there is likely very little consumption happening there as well.
Alright i'll try cutting out on the alk dosing then.
 
Baking soda is a better alternative although I feel that in such a new tank without coral you don’t really need to add it.

the best option you have now is to perform a few large water changes to remove all that fertiliser and increase phosphates to detectable levels. From there allow for the system to mature
Hey sixty_reefer sorry for bothering you again but im really struggeling over here. I have done two 50% water changes and one 80% and the waters still getting super cloudy and yellow. My fish is now also starting to feel bad so i have moved him and my zoa frag to a temporary hospital tank, my frogspawn sadly died yesterday...
Could Dinos be causing all of this chaos of what could be going on, im at a complete loss.
 
Hey sixty_reefer sorry for bothering you again but im really struggeling over here. I have done two 50% water changes and one 80% and the waters still getting super cloudy and yellow. My fish is now also starting to feel bad so i have moved him and my zoa frag to a temporary hospital tank, my frogspawn sadly died yesterday...
Could Dinos be causing all of this chaos of what could be going on, im at a complete loss.
Moving your livestock to a hospital tank is a good move until you can determine the issue that you have at hand.

could you provide a picture how the tank looking now and nitrates and phosphates?

mid phosphates have not risen from your last post that may be one of the reasons the problem is persisting
 
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Moving your livestock to a hospital tank is a good move until you can determine the issue that you have at hand.

could you provide a picture how the tank looking now and nitrates and phosphates?

mid phosphates have not risen from your last post that may be one of the reasons the problem is persisting
The tank is looking like the first picture in this thread at this point, tho when i did the big water change yesterday the water was clear and i could see a light brown covering on rocks and sand with small bubbles hanging above it. This covering was thicker this morning but the water was still pretty clear, and now in the evening the covering is gone and the water has gone super cloudy and yellow. Nitrates is back at zero at this point due to the water changes, and phosphate never got above zero. I have ordered PO4+ to dose with and im hoping it will arrive tomorrow, i have also overfed slightly today so nitrates should be starting to rise slowly.
 
The tank is looking like the first picture in this thread at this point, tho when i did the big water change yesterday the water was clear and i could see a light brown covering on rocks and sand with small bubbles hanging above it. This covering was thicker this morning but the water was still pretty clear, and now in the evening the covering is gone and the water has gone super cloudy and yellow. Nitrates is back at zero at this point due to the water changes, and phosphate never got above zero. I have ordered PO4+ to dose with and im hoping it will arrive tomorrow, i have also overfed slightly today so nitrates should be starting to rise slowly.
If you don’t have livestock in the system switching the light off could stop all your problems, allow for the photosynthetic nuisance to perish and restore nitrates and phosphates to detectable residual.
 

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