Supplementing T5s

[14A]

Guys,

I currently run:

3xBlue Plus ATI
1xActinic ATI
2xAquablue Special ATI

Given that I prefer a more shallow reef look, I'm looking to supplement it with LEDs and thought about the following configuration:

15x 3w 3000K whites LEDs
11x3w 8000K whites LEDs
15x3w UVs from 370-410

Any insights? Would it be too much warm white?

For the spectrum, I've used Raycal

 

[oreo54]

Guys,

I currently run:

3xBlue Plus ATI
1xActinic ATI
2xAquablue Special ATI

Given that I prefer a more shallow reef look, I'm looking to supplement it with LEDs and thought about the following configuration:

15x 3w 3000K whites LEDs
11x3w 8000K whites LEDs
15x3w UVs from 370-410

Any insights? Would it be too much warm white?

For the spectrum, I've used Raycal

Hmmm as a long time tinkerer with Raycal (new Spectra) I'm wondering what your final spectrum criteria is?


Couple of things to point out.
The ATI data is based on 39W tubes.

The led generic data is based on 1W each. Realistically one should use like 2W (2X) for normal arrays of "3W" class diodes.

You can use fractions such as 54/39 = 1.38 for a 4' tube
Blue plus 3x 1.38 = 4.15 rounded up to 4.2

I'm not seeing what you are picking puts much of a dent in the heavy blue of the tubes.
Second whites can add a tinge of yellow esp. warm whites though in a sense less bothersome than the cool whites
due to the low red/high yellow-green content.
Third every white adds more blue to fight against.

Ignoring the violet/uv for the moment.

Now that is on paper, visually is another story.

"Scientifically" all you want to do is add more green and more red to blend with the blue producing white.

Is there any real benefit to full spectrum lighting?

Blue Plus is not full spectrum. You do know that right? Coral plus or aquablue special are closer to gull spectrum. Fair enough . Coral plus. Not even close to full spectrum daylight. Seems to be missing HUGE chunks of " colors". These are from ati btw. Since most people don' t like the...

www.reef2reef.com

Takes 300W of green and 100w of red to push your blue centric spectrum to a 90000k spectrum.

* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
LED Green (520nm) [120°] x300
LED Red (620nm) [120°] x100
ATI Actinic (Actinic) [90°] x1.4
ATI BluePlus (Blue) [90°] x4.2
ATI AquablueSpecial (RGB) [90°] x2.8
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux: 52,020 lm
Radiant flux: 169,830 mW
PPF: 743 umol/s
TCP: 90910 K
CRI: 43
λp: 437 nm
Color: #6896FF

Better balance:

* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
LED Cyan (500nm) [120°] x100
LED Green (520nm) [120°] x300
LED Red (620nm) [120°] x200
ATI Actinic (Actinic) [90°] x1.4
ATI BluePlus (Blue) [90°] x4.2
ATI AquablueSpecial (RGB) [90°] x2.8
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux: 69,020 lm
Radiant flux: 228,266 mW
PPF: 1,021 umol/s
TCP: 15630 K
CRI: 59
λp: 437 nm
Color: #99A6FF

To be honest the wattages needed seems ridiculously high. Not sure why.
Point still holds, adding red/green/possibly cyan is arguably better than adding whites.

Turning a single 39 watt actinic tube to a "daylight" spectrum isn't terribly hard.

* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
LED Green (530nm) [120°] x21
LED Red (620nm) [120°] x7
ATI Actinic (Actinic) [90°] x1
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux: 3,723 lm
Radiant flux: 11,543 mW
PPF: 49.9 umol/s
TCP: 15380 K
CRI: 61
λp: 434 nm
Color: #8DABFF

 

[14A]

Hmmm as a long time tinkerer with Raycal (new Spectra) I'm wondering what your final spectrum criteria is?


Couple of things to point out.
The ATI data is based on 39W tubes.

The led generic data is based on 1W each. Realistically one should use like 2W (2X) for normal arrays of "3W" class diodes.

You can use fractions such as 54/39 = 1.38 for a 4' tube
Blue plus 3x 1.38 = 4.15 rounded up to 4.2

I'm not seeing what you are picking puts much of a dent in the heavy blue of the tubes.
Second whites can add a tinge of yellow esp. warm whites though in a sense less bothersome than the cool whites
due to the low red/high yellow-green content.
Third every white adds more blue to fight against.

Ignoring the violet/uv for the moment.

Now that is on paper, visually is another story.

"Scientifically" all you want to do is add more green and more red to blend with the blue producing white.

Is there any real benefit to full spectrum lighting?

Blue Plus is not full spectrum. You do know that right? Coral plus or aquablue special are closer to gull spectrum. Fair enough . Coral plus. Not even close to full spectrum daylight. Seems to be missing HUGE chunks of " colors". These are from ati btw. Since most people don' t like the...

www.reef2reef.com

Takes 300W of green and 100w of red to push your blue centric spectrum to a 90000k spectrum.

Better balance:


To be honest the wattages needed seems ridiculously high. Not sure why.
Point still holds, adding red/green/possibly cyan is arguably better than adding whites.

Turning a single 39 watt actinic tube to a "daylight" spectrum isn't terribly hard.

I thought about mimicking something by closer to a -5m depth. This is my favorite kind of look.

As for the T5 bulbs: all 39w bulbs

 

[oreo54]

I thought about mimicking something by closer to a -5m depth. This is my favorite kind of look.

As for the T5 bulbs: all 39w bulbs

 

[14A]

May I ask you why you skipped LEDs under 410nm and those over 600nm? By the way... what are your thoughts on eco-lamps light fixtures?

 

[oreo54]

May I ask you why you skipped LEDs under 410nm and those over 600nm? By the way... what are your thoughts on eco-lamps light fixtures?

Under 410 don't really hits the visuals besides rendering a violet tone ....so not part of the discussion.
People freak out when red is added, besides at 5m most is attenuated out.
Tricky part is even if 90% of red is gone at 5m it may be a significant amount in real power terms in comparison to
what people pump in with ONE 3w deep red led over 24"x 24" area.

"IF" I wanted to do a "RGB" sans Blue array I'd use PCAmber, Lime and some cyan.

No idea what eco-lamp light fixtures are.

 

[A. grandis]

Guys,

I currently run:

3xBlue Plus ATI
1xActinic ATI
2xAquablue Special ATI

Given that I prefer a more shallow reef look, I'm looking to supplement it with LEDs and thought about the following configuration:

15x 3w 3000K whites LEDs
11x3w 8000K whites LEDs
15x3w UVs from 370-410

Any insights? Would it be too much warm white?

For the spectrum, I've used Raycal

Do you really WANT to add LEDs?
Cause you could just change the T5 bulbs to achieve the shallow water look.
What is your fixture?

 

[14A]

Do you really WANT to add LEDs?
Cause you could just change the T5 bulbs to achieve the shallow water look.
What is your fixture?

It’s a custom made T5 fixture (6x39w). Would you suggest any combination?

 

[A. grandis]

It’s a custom made T5 fixture (6x39w). Would you suggest any combination?

In reality you need to get bulbs and try for yourself cause what's ok for me in terms of aesthetics might not be exactly what you are looking for. My suggestion to start withis below:
BACK
ATI Blue Plus
KZ Coral Light 10K
ATI Blue Plus
ATI True Actinic
KZ Coral Light 10K or GE 6500K
ATI Blue Plus
FRONT
If you want "whiter" you can change the 4th bulb from the front (ATI bLue Plus) to one of the "white" bulbs I have suggested. Don't be afraid of changing those white bulbs around and try other configurations! With T5s it's totally safe to do that! The more "white" bulbs, the longer you will need to adapt organisms to the new light, if that is the case!
I think you will love this placement above. The second bulb from the front can be either the KZ 10K or the GE 65K. Changing that same bulb you will have the plus or minus for your taste. If you like the "white" bulbs to be a bit more blue you can get the KZ new generation with is called 14K instead of the KZ 10K.
The AquaBlue Special that you have will give you a "darker version" of a "white" bulb, visually speaking. We are talking about aesthetics here!

With all the respect to spectrum charts' analysis, with I know is a great way to understand lighting, the practice and experience of decades using T5 only systems is what drives my recommendation.

You just can't go wrong with a T5 only fixture!
If you get an ATI fixture you will see the difference in quality though! They have fans to cool the bulbs in their specific place for better performance. totally worth the investment!!!
Best easiest way to light your reef system!
Can't get tired of saying that!!!

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

 

[14A]

In reality you need to get bulbs and try for yourself cause what's ok for me in terms of aesthetics might not be exactly what you are looking for. My suggestion to start withis below:
BACK
ATI Blue Plus
KZ Coral Light 10K
ATI Blue Plus
ATI True Actinic
KZ Coral Light 10K or GE 6500K
ATI Blue Plus
FRONT
If you want "whiter" you can change the 4th bulb from the front (ATI bLue Plus) to one of the "white" bulbs I have suggested. Don't be afraid of changing those white bulbs around and try other configurations! With T5s it's totally safe to do that! The more "white" bulbs, the longer you will need to adapt organisms to the new light, if that is the case!
I think you will love this placement above. The second bulb from the front can be either the KZ 10K or the GE 65K. Changing that same bulb you will have the plus or minus for your taste. If you like the "white" bulbs to be a bit more blue you can get the KZ new generation with is called 14K instead of the KZ 10K.
The AquaBlue Special that you have will give you a "darker version" of a "white" bulb, visually speaking. We are talking about aesthetics here!

With all the respect to spectrum charts' analysis, with I know is a great way to understand lighting, the practice and experience of decades using T5 only systems is what drives my recommendation.

You just can't go wrong with a T5 only fixture!
If you get an ATI fixture you will see the difference in quality though! They have fans to cool the bulbs in their specific place for better performance. totally worth the investment!!!
Best easiest way to light your reef system!
Can't get tired of saying that!!!

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Thank you so much for you recommendation! I'll definitely follow your advice. I ordered the Coral Light KZ. Since it's going to be my first experience with T5s, I'm going to experiment a bit.

As for the fixture: I want to wait a bit to either go for a Pacific Sun or an ATI when I upgrade my tank (I'm getting married/moving soon). Anyway, the builder of my fixture is a professional (it's not DIY!)... however, I can't deny that you can't beat the asthetics of a ATI/Pacific Sun.

 

[A. grandis]

For what I see Pacific Sun is a "fancy" T5 fixture. I prefer simplicity. I've never saw a Pacific Sun, and I think they are great by what I read bout about them though. I stick with non-dimmable SunPower cause they are simple and work great. The price is right and ATI provides parts if I need.
Enjoy T5s!

 

[RedoubtReef]

Here are a couple videos on T5 bulb combo's:

 

[14A]

Here are a couple videos on T5 bulb combo's:

I knew about the first video! Thanks for the second one. Really appreciate it