Dtackett
Valuable Member
I know there is the supreme guide above as a sticky, however there is a lot in there that new people can get lost in. this is my simplified guide. again, article so its a long read.
Setting up your first saltwater reef tank.
Welcome. You’ve decided to setup your first saltwater reef tank and you’ve somehow landed on this site in the hope to learn what you’re doing. Well, you’re in the right place. First, let me give you a basic list of what you will want.
First we will go through the basic list. This is a list that I recommend regardless of what size your tank is.
Now, for tanks that are not running a sump. Remember, this is a basic list. Each tank will have different needs.
For tanks that are running a sump things get a bit more complicated but easier in the long run.
Now, you’ve got everything you need and you’re ready to setup your tank. I won’t go into any detail on actually installing the tank or putting in the sump as each setup is different. But now, let’s get to cycling.
There are a few ways to cycle a tank.
When using high quality live rock its simple. You place the rock in the tank, and you walk away. If the bacteria is established enough, you won’t even have a cycle and POTENTIALLY can place fish in the tank the same day so long as you want for all parameters to stabilize. I have several friends who setup tanks professionally and this is their favorite method. However, all live rock is not created equally and this method doesn’t work if the live rock is sterile.
Using quick methods are nice. You follow the directions exactly and the tank builds its bacteria colonies quickly. But to me, a cycle is much more than just building bacteria. You’ve got potential algae blooms, diatom blooms, your parameters must stabilize, you could get hydroids and so many other things that happen during a cycle that I prefer to let it go and do its thing. Plus, in most cases these quick cycles don’t build much of a bacteria colony and the quality ones are expensive.
Using rotting shrimp is pretty simple. You can drop the shrimp in a pair of new and rinsed nylon leggings ($1 at Wal-Mart) and drop it in a mid to high flow area of the tank and walk away. Some will add bottled bacteria to give it a quick start as well. Then after a few days you check your ammonia levels and pull the shrimp out and watch for the cycle. Im not a fan of this. This gives a very low bacteria colony as it’s not a constant source of ammonia. You get a cycle, but it’s a week one.
Using live hardy fish is an old school method and it’s pretty well outdated. Some still practice this because they feel nature does it best. Well, in my opinion, nature doesn’t do it best in a box of water. In large tanks, 1 fish isn’t going to create enough waste to build ammonia up very high, and in small tanks it can build so much ammonia that it burns its own gills. It works to a point, but it’s not controlled at all and can kill your fish.
Using ammonia is my favorite. It’s cheap, it’s easy, and it’s safe. You dose your tank to 4ppm ammonia, add a bottle of bacteria and walk away. After a few days to a week, check your ammonia again. Do this until it hits 2 ppm ammonia then dose it back to 4ppm. Each time it drops to 2 ppm, dose it back to 4. You can add bottled bacteria each time if you like. Once your tank can process 4ppm ammonia within 24 hours and result in 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites within 24 hours, and it does this for several days in a row, your tank is fully cycled with a STRONG bacteria colony and it can support pretty much anything you throw at it. It normally takes 2-4 weeks with dry rock.
Whichever method you use to cycle, remember a cycle is more than just bacteria. In most cases your tank will go through its ugly stage. At this stage you will have uncontrollable diatoms, random algae blooms, and most likely hydroids. None of this is much to worry about and will pass with time. However, watch the algae as it will likely require some work.
Once your tank is cycled feel free to add the start of your cleanup crew (CUC). I recommend adding mostly snails. I won’t go into detail on this as which snails you get depends on your tank. However, you have crabs, snails, stars, and nudis that can all be part of your CUC. Research each one before you add it to ensure it’s what your tank needs. Not all snails eat the same thing.
Your tank is only a few days past your cycle, your parameters are stable, and your first members of your CUC are in and guess what.... YOU’RE READY TO ADD YOUR FIRST FEW FISH!!! Saying you cycled your tank with the ammonia method, you can add more than 1 or 2 fish without any issues; however I recommend only adding 2 fish at a time unless you’re adding a schooling fish. So what fish do you add? Well, that depends on what you want. You can add the most aggressive fish first if you plan on having one, or if you are going for a peaceful community style tank, you can add grazers first. The reason I say add grazers first is so they can help clean the tank as it finishes its ugly stage.
Now your tank is cycled, it’s past its ugly stage, you’ve got your first few fish and you’re ready for coral. Coral isn’t something to be afraid of. It is much easier than some people would like you to believe. Some will say wait 6 months, some will say 1 year. I say as early as you want depending on the coral. For hardy coral such as: leathers, xenia, anthelia, zoas/palys, acans, frogspawn/hammers, and even some SPS you are able to add them as soon as your tank is stable after adding your first few fish. Be sure to research each coral before you buy to ensure you are buying coral that your tank is ready to support.
THAT’S IT! You’ve followed my guide, you’ve setup your tank and cycled it, you’ve added your CUC and your first fish and coral and you are the proud owner of a beautiful reef tank! At this point it’s going to be a constant learning experience. But never fear, that’s why we are here!
Setting up your first saltwater reef tank.
Welcome. You’ve decided to setup your first saltwater reef tank and you’ve somehow landed on this site in the hope to learn what you’re doing. Well, you’re in the right place. First, let me give you a basic list of what you will want.
First we will go through the basic list. This is a list that I recommend regardless of what size your tank is.
- RODI Unit.
- Refractometer with calibration fluid
- Quality test kits (red sea, Hanna checkers, salifert)
- Extra pumps for mixing salt
- Bucket for mixing salt
- Analog thermometer
Now, for tanks that are not running a sump. Remember, this is a basic list. Each tank will have different needs.
- HOB Protein Skimmer
- HOB oversized filter
- Powerhead/Wavemaker
- Heater
- Quality light
- ATO
For tanks that are running a sump things get a bit more complicated but easier in the long run.
- Sump
- In sump/external Protein skimmer
- Filter socks/polyfill as a mechanical filter
- Return pump
- ATO
- Powerhead/Wavemaker
- Heater
- Quality light
Now, you’ve got everything you need and you’re ready to setup your tank. I won’t go into any detail on actually installing the tank or putting in the sump as each setup is different. But now, let’s get to cycling.
There are a few ways to cycle a tank.
- Using high quality live rock (the die-off will cycle the tank)
- Using quick cycle methods such as Dr. Times one and only (it works but it doesn’t skip the diatom bloom and other stuff your tank does during a cycle)
- Using rotting shrimp (not a fan of shrimp rotting in my tank. I would rather be clean)
- Using a live, hardy fish. (seen as cruel and not needed)
- Using ammonia and bottled bacteria
When using high quality live rock its simple. You place the rock in the tank, and you walk away. If the bacteria is established enough, you won’t even have a cycle and POTENTIALLY can place fish in the tank the same day so long as you want for all parameters to stabilize. I have several friends who setup tanks professionally and this is their favorite method. However, all live rock is not created equally and this method doesn’t work if the live rock is sterile.
Using quick methods are nice. You follow the directions exactly and the tank builds its bacteria colonies quickly. But to me, a cycle is much more than just building bacteria. You’ve got potential algae blooms, diatom blooms, your parameters must stabilize, you could get hydroids and so many other things that happen during a cycle that I prefer to let it go and do its thing. Plus, in most cases these quick cycles don’t build much of a bacteria colony and the quality ones are expensive.
Using rotting shrimp is pretty simple. You can drop the shrimp in a pair of new and rinsed nylon leggings ($1 at Wal-Mart) and drop it in a mid to high flow area of the tank and walk away. Some will add bottled bacteria to give it a quick start as well. Then after a few days you check your ammonia levels and pull the shrimp out and watch for the cycle. Im not a fan of this. This gives a very low bacteria colony as it’s not a constant source of ammonia. You get a cycle, but it’s a week one.
Using live hardy fish is an old school method and it’s pretty well outdated. Some still practice this because they feel nature does it best. Well, in my opinion, nature doesn’t do it best in a box of water. In large tanks, 1 fish isn’t going to create enough waste to build ammonia up very high, and in small tanks it can build so much ammonia that it burns its own gills. It works to a point, but it’s not controlled at all and can kill your fish.
Using ammonia is my favorite. It’s cheap, it’s easy, and it’s safe. You dose your tank to 4ppm ammonia, add a bottle of bacteria and walk away. After a few days to a week, check your ammonia again. Do this until it hits 2 ppm ammonia then dose it back to 4ppm. Each time it drops to 2 ppm, dose it back to 4. You can add bottled bacteria each time if you like. Once your tank can process 4ppm ammonia within 24 hours and result in 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites within 24 hours, and it does this for several days in a row, your tank is fully cycled with a STRONG bacteria colony and it can support pretty much anything you throw at it. It normally takes 2-4 weeks with dry rock.
Whichever method you use to cycle, remember a cycle is more than just bacteria. In most cases your tank will go through its ugly stage. At this stage you will have uncontrollable diatoms, random algae blooms, and most likely hydroids. None of this is much to worry about and will pass with time. However, watch the algae as it will likely require some work.
Once your tank is cycled feel free to add the start of your cleanup crew (CUC). I recommend adding mostly snails. I won’t go into detail on this as which snails you get depends on your tank. However, you have crabs, snails, stars, and nudis that can all be part of your CUC. Research each one before you add it to ensure it’s what your tank needs. Not all snails eat the same thing.
Your tank is only a few days past your cycle, your parameters are stable, and your first members of your CUC are in and guess what.... YOU’RE READY TO ADD YOUR FIRST FEW FISH!!! Saying you cycled your tank with the ammonia method, you can add more than 1 or 2 fish without any issues; however I recommend only adding 2 fish at a time unless you’re adding a schooling fish. So what fish do you add? Well, that depends on what you want. You can add the most aggressive fish first if you plan on having one, or if you are going for a peaceful community style tank, you can add grazers first. The reason I say add grazers first is so they can help clean the tank as it finishes its ugly stage.
Now your tank is cycled, it’s past its ugly stage, you’ve got your first few fish and you’re ready for coral. Coral isn’t something to be afraid of. It is much easier than some people would like you to believe. Some will say wait 6 months, some will say 1 year. I say as early as you want depending on the coral. For hardy coral such as: leathers, xenia, anthelia, zoas/palys, acans, frogspawn/hammers, and even some SPS you are able to add them as soon as your tank is stable after adding your first few fish. Be sure to research each coral before you buy to ensure you are buying coral that your tank is ready to support.
THAT’S IT! You’ve followed my guide, you’ve setup your tank and cycled it, you’ve added your CUC and your first fish and coral and you are the proud owner of a beautiful reef tank! At this point it’s going to be a constant learning experience. But never fear, that’s why we are here!
)))
