Switching from MH to GHL Mitras

  • Thread starter Thread starter KJoFan
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
Jump to Last
Vinny@GHLUSA said:
High Efficiency - Total power output capped at 70% regardless of settings in your schedule
High Output - Full power of LX7 is available for use
Click to expand...
Thanks for the simple clarification! I think I am set to go, though will still probably add more ventilation to the setup. No such thing as too much I wouldn't think.
 
Tidal Gardens
mcarroll said:
Take a messurement to see what it is now.

My guess is that it's too low and (if so) I just wouldn't worry about using acclimation mode – it's for corals that are used to dimmer light.
Click to expand...
Running my chosen light schedule I took some readings yesterday at peak time and came out with 850-900 on the lux meter so...right in the ballpark of where the MH's were.
 
KJoFan said:
Running my chosen light schedule I took some readings yesterday at peak time and came out with 850-900 on the lux meter so...right in the ballpark of where the MH's were.
Click to expand...

Nice!! :) :) :)
 
Nutramar Foods
I will try and get you some screen shots this evening so I can show you.
 
KJoFan said:
I may do that, I should have some fans in the next couple weeks I can get installed. I do have one that can mount over the aquarium maybe I could rig up to blow over the fixtures in the mean time if needed. Or, I can leave the front of the canopy open as well to help get more air. I'm not worried about them just yet, but probably do need some extra ventilation for sure.

You will certainly need the fans in a closed canopy. I have a 5.5" high closed canopy and have 12 X 80mm fans blowing air through the canopy (with three 7206s). Without the fans and using lower powered DIY LEDs, I was hitting 70 C on the heat sinks above the LEDs! I haven't tried the Mistras with no fans. With the canopy fans, I hit 58-60 at high output with average LED levels at about 80%. Note that 4 canopy fans blow over and under each Mistras. Also, make sure you don't mount the Mistras too close to the top of the canopy. Otherwise, the Mistras fans just recirculate the hot air back into the unit.

I'll try running all at 100% this afternoon and see what temps I get.

Hope that helps, Bob
Click to expand...
 
The entire canopy isn't closed, the top is all open, so the Mitras are actually mounted up to the top, therefore the fans and tops of the fixtures are all exposed to the room. This should help some with heat dissipation, the fans can kick that heat out into the room. Still though, I want to add fans to the sides of the canopy to either suck more warm air out, or some sucking air out and some blowing air in, not sure what's the most effective in that regard.
 
Avast
KJoFan said:
The entire canopy isn't closed, the top is all open, so the Mitras are actually mounted up to the top, therefore the fans and tops of the fixtures are all exposed to the room. This should help some with heat dissipation, the fans can kick that heat out into the room. Still though, I want to add fans to the sides of the canopy to either suck more warm air out, or some sucking air out and some blowing air in, not sure what's the most effective in that regard.
Click to expand...

Passive vents should be sufficient – just make sure the fans on the LED aren't restricted by the amount of air they can draw through the vents....I'd make the intake vents at least the same total diameter as the fans....maybe you can find a better guideline though. Putting fans in the vents should be unnecessary overkill....but if you do, aim them IN to the fixture.
 
mcarroll said:
Passive vents should be sufficient – just make sure the fans on the LED aren't restricted by the amount of air they can draw through the vents....I'd make the intake vents at least the same total diameter as the fans....maybe you can find a better guideline though. Putting fans in the vents should be unnecessary overkill....but if you do, aim them IN to the fixture.
Click to expand...
Well, like I said the entire top of the canopy is open and the fixtures are at the top, so the fans in the fixtures are completely unrestricted as of now. My thought was cut holes into the sides of the canopy and install additional fans to help out if needed.
 
HolisticBear said:
The GHL software is littered with bugs, but...

After you boot it, it will have default setting. You then need to restore each file (one for probes, one for non-probe settings). It won't automatically do it. You're probably doing this, but just in case.

I hope the other USB cable or maybe version 1.1.1.2 works with your Mitras.

I am also gunshy about updating my Profilux. I've been burnt by bugs in the past, so I drag my feet and update only after it's been out for awhile.
Click to expand...
Correct, I have manually saved (changing file names each time I try) and restored each file manually and it just never works. I'm sure it's probably something I'm doing wrong, as it obviously works for others, but heck if I can get it to work for me! :)
 
Nutramar Foods
I didn't have time to log into the units, but let me go from memory here to see if I can help. On the general tab I believe is where you setup your units for master/slave and the frequency and channel. If you have 4 units you will have something like the following setup. I left the Frequency number out because I cant remember the numbers that are there. The time to master reference is what I'm referring too. This will allow you to do the dusk to dawn feature. It alters the time of the slave units so that the lights come on line/down in the sequential or non sequential order depending on if use the negative or positive numbers below. The example I just typed up is negative. You can choose any denomination of minutes you want.

MODE FREQ CH TIME TO Master
Master FreqXxxx Channel 1
Slave FreqXxxx Channel 2 -5
Slave FreqXxxx Channel 3 -10
Slave FreqXxxx Channel 4 -15

Next when you get to what I believe is called simulation mode. There is a time to master option there as well for the slave units. I think this one is in seconds. YOu can set the offset of seconds from each unit that you want here as well. The offset will allow the clouds etc simulation move according from light to light as you set it up. You can choose any denomination within the set values you like. You can play with this as you wish to see how fast/slow you want the weather features move across your lights. Let me know if you any further questions.
 
I’ll put my 2 cents in. I have 5 Mitras. I think the software feels like it’s straight out of 2005, but once you get the hang of it, it generally works ok. I have not messed with changing any frequencies for the master and slaves. I do connect to a single master via Wi-Fi and make lighting changes from there.

I need to grow some coral before I finish tweaking and sharing my project file, but so far I only need to run them at 40% to get about 150 par on the sandbed on my 7’ tank. I initially had them all the way up and on max output mode and it was like 300 on the sandbed. Good thing I didn’t put any coral in [emoji41]
 
mtraylor said:
I didn't have time to log into the units, but let me go from memory here to see if I can help. On the general tab I believe is where you setup your units for master/slave and the frequency and channel. If you have 4 units you will have something like the following setup. I left the Frequency number out because I cant remember the numbers that are there. The time to master reference is what I'm referring too. This will allow you to do the dusk to dawn feature. It alters the time of the slave units so that the lights come on line/down in the sequential or non sequential order depending on if use the negative or positive numbers below. The example I just typed up is negative. You can choose any denomination of minutes you want.

MODE FREQ CH TIME TO Master
Master FreqXxxx Channel 1
Slave FreqXxxx Channel 2 -5
Slave FreqXxxx Channel 3 -10
Slave FreqXxxx Channel 4 -15

Next when you get to what I believe is called simulation mode. There is a time to master option there as well for the slave units. I think this one is in seconds. YOu can set the offset of seconds from each unit that you want here as well. The offset will allow the clouds etc simulation move according from light to light as you set it up. You can choose any denomination within the set values you like. You can play with this as you wish to see how fast/slow you want the weather features move across your lights. Let me know if you any further questions.
Click to expand...
Ok, I follow the first part pretty easily based on what I've seen so far in GCC, the second one, simulation mode I'm not familiar with yet, but I'm sure once I go in there it will make more sense. I'll have to give it a go. :)
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
wangspeed said:
I’ll put my 2 cents in. I have 5 Mitras. I think the software feels like it’s straight out of 2005, but once you get the hang of it, it generally works ok. I have not messed with changing any frequencies for the master and slaves. I do connect to a single master via Wi-Fi and make lighting changes from there.

I need to grow some coral before I finish tweaking and sharing my project file, but so far I only need to run them at 40% to get about 150 par on the sandbed on my 7’ tank. I initially had them all the way up and on max output mode and it was like 300 on the sandbed. Good thing I didn’t put any coral in [emoji41]
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm hoping that I'm not overdoing it with my profile, but based on light output readings at the water's surface for these compared to my previous MH they seem similar so...fingers crossed.
 
@wangspeed numbers show the power of multiple fixtures.

A single fixture running at 100% 12" above the surface generates 385 PAR at the surface.
 
I have the LX6 series and I have 5 GHL Mitras 6300's over my 6ft tank. I have no idea what my PAR is, but with 4 I didn't have what I wanted running @100% which is not really 100% compared to the LX7 series. Adding the 5th light and putting to 100% running at about 62 degrees and placing them closer to the water than when I had 4 has had no ill effects on my SPS. No acclimation or anything. I have over 45 sps colonies now just for reference. With the 5th light, now my walt Disney sps is finally growing a little faster. Woo Hoo!

In reality there is not much I can do with the LX 6 series. I have allot of led spectrums on my fixture that are barely turned on as far as power is concerned like greens and whites. The LX6 series does not allow you to over drive the other LED's to get actual full power out of the unit. In the LX6 series, you basically have to buy a new fixture to get more power as of now. If I ever get the LX7 series, I will probably have to borrow a power meter to get them where I want them. Thanks for all the info @Holistic Bear. The LX7 series has the PBT and would probably allow me to only have to have 4 units since I could use ALL the available power of the unit.

You guys make me want to get the LX7 series, all over again. LOL. The PBT sounds like feature I would love to work with and document.
 
BRS
BRS
I would think you are good to go. Your light levels you measured were similar. Cant wait to see what progress you get.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%

  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%

  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%

  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
See comments…

New Posts

Visit Detroit Reef Club
Dinkins Aquatic Gardens
Deltec
Top Shelf Aquatics
Nutramar Foods
World Wide Corals
TCK Corals
Tidal Gardens
Chewy.com
New Posts
Back
Top