Switching out my mp40's for Tunze 6105's need input

[goody]

I've been using 2 mp40s, but one of the drysides is toast and the other is also a bit too noisy, so I decided to order two Tunzes 6105 to go along with my three modded 6025's. The 6025's are my only experience with Tunze, so I am pretty new to these.

I was currently running two 6025's off the back wall for added flow to the vortechs. My question is should I just place the 6105's on opposite sides of the tank like I had my vortechs? Should I use the wide flow housing? Which jumper? I also have a 7092 controller. What kind of settings should I use on this?

My tank is 60"x24"x24", it is sps dominant (many small frags right now), and has a 2" sandbed. Thanks for any input. My tank below:

Prior to adding coral

Today

 

[icedgxe]

I run one mp40 and one 6105. I run my 6205 opposite of my mp40 with a 6205 shroud on it. I think Putting them facing eachother but offset (ie: left side towards front glass and right side towards back glass) with 6205 shrpuds would be my choice.

 

[mfinn]

I already did what you plan on doing, and I have my 6105's on opposite ends near the back of the tank at about a 30% angle to the front.
I did buy the wider flow housing and I have the new jumper. I think it's 24v?

 

[mcarroll]

Placing them on opposing sides, alternating on/off with each other every few hours for a tide simulation would be a great start. (Running them opposing each other simultaneously kills their effect by having them work against each other - usually creating a dead zone or zones in the center, so I wouldn't recommend that.)

With your tank at 60" the wide-flow housing may be your best bet, but the "narrow" housing will give you more waste-lifting power, so I wouldn't hesitate to try it and the wide-flow nozzle, along with various motor speeds just to see what works best for your tank. Don't be afraid to move that sand bed around a little in the adjustment process - you may be surprised how much junk has collected down there!

I predict that you are going to be shocked at how much more powerful these are compared to what you are used to.

Good luck!

-Matt

 

[goody]

Thanks for the input. Was reading the manual for the 7092 and it looks like I need to open it up to get that "inverse" affect. I was leaning towards this instead of simultaneously running them.

 

[mcarroll]

(Sorry, I completely missed that you had the controller - simple timers would be best for the flow I suggested, which you could still try, but...)

That controller is just set up for a different flow strategy I think - which would be great to try out too - where both pumps would be on the same wall. I don't think they are run in sync though as from the manual it sounds like the setting was designed to run a wave box and a power head. On at the same time, but not in sync....makes sense, right? Lol. I'd definitely give that a try just to see how it works out.....just cuz that's easier than changing the jumper.

It might work out or you might learn something about the unit or your tank's flow in the process even though you still end up changing the jumper. Each tank's flow requirements are pretty unique, so it never hurts to try all the options if you are able to!

-Matt

 

[AJreefs]

To the OP, I would try using the wide shroud with the 24v jumper to start, play with each housing to figure out which you prefer. I recently switched my two mp40's for one 6095s to maintain a small footprint and couldn't be happier. Infact, after testing a few different jumpers, I only need to use the 12v jumper to get flow that "feels" comparable to my Mp40's which lacked the reach this tunze has. I will be adding the second pump and a controller now that I feel more comfortable with my decision.