t247 bluefish mini mod

mlivvy · Jun 6, 2016

Posted on other forums figured I put it up here also. I had a Bluefish Mini left over from a project and after watching this video I attempted adding it to an Ocean Revive T247 with the factory timer.

Here's a video of the lights in action-
After lots of testing I found an unused connector on the factory timer module with a 12V/ground input. That output was perfect for powering the BF mini so no additional wires will need to come out the fixture. I decided to keep the factory timer so that I can shut off the lights when they reach 10% instead of using a relay. The relay requires space and space is very limited inside these fixtures.

I also discovered that the drivers do not dim below 10%. So all you get with this mod is 10%-100% ramping/dimming and the storm options.

You'll need to cut the heatshield a few cm to allow the mini to fit in that corner. I used velcro/double sided tape to secure it. You'll also need to cover up the exposed area on the mini so it doesn't make contact with the heatshield. It's a good idea to also setup your wifi/blinkup before closing the fixture. I'm not sure if the phones screen will reach the mini during the blinkup with the closed enclosure. Maybe I can test this later.

For wiring I used jumper cables from an Arduino. Or you could just use the Ribbon breakout cable sold with the BF mini but you would need pin connectors to tap into the connector port on the factory timer.

mlivvy · Jun 6, 2016

Here's the wiring..

revhtree · Jun 7, 2016

Cool thanks for sharing!

buganddoug · Jun 7, 2016

That is Awesome

newbreefer316 · Sep 9, 2016

I missed out on the one you had up for sale, but I saw in the post where this could be modified to run multiple t247's. What would need to be done to them?

steve&mari · Sep 9, 2016

Awesome been wanting to do this with our fixture thank you for sharing this.

Alfredo. · Sep 21, 2016

Hello,
Very good, could it make sunset and sunrise effect? Also could I do it on the first model of the T247?
Thanks for the help.

mlivvy · Sep 22, 2016

newbreefer316 said:
I missed out on the one you had up for sale, but I saw in the post where this could be modified to run multiple t247's. What would need to be done to them?

You take the PWM signal, blue and yellow wire from the diagram above, and continue them to the next light. You could use headphone plugs and add headphone jacks (like the kessils) to wire them up.

Alfredo. said:
Hello,
Very good, could it make sunset and sunrise effect? Also could I do it on the first model of the T247?
Thanks for the help.

I don't know about the first model. Is it dimmable?

Alfredo. · Sep 22, 2016

Thanks for the reply, yes it's dimmable.

mlivvy · Sep 22, 2016

Alfredo. said:
Thanks for the reply, yes it's dimmable.

I looked it up. The only difference I see is the mounting legs. You will get (somewhat) of a sunrise/sunset effect due to light only being able to dim/ramp from 10%. The effect looks best when it can dim to 0. But, eitherway it will dim and ramp from 10% so depending on how high is the intensity at it's peak, you'll get a decent effect.

OceanRevive · Oct 26, 2016

Very interesting work

!

spartanman22 · Nov 8, 2016

So if I wanted to string up 3 units on one bluefish mini controller I'd just string the blue and yellow from fixture 1 to the same black wires in fixture 2, then fixture 2 to fixture 3, and then into the bluefish mini?

mlivvy · Nov 10, 2016

spartanman22 said:
So if I wanted to string up 3 units on one bluefish mini controller I'd just string the blue and yellow from fixture 1 to the same black wires in fixture 2, then fixture 2 to fixture 3, and then into the bluefish mini?

That's it.

spartanman22 · Nov 11, 2016

mlivvy said:
That's it.

Ok thanks for the help. For the wiring you mentioned using the jumper cables. I followed the link and it led to female/female jumper wires. Wouldn't you need a male jumper wire to go into the bluefish mini?

I am planning on using 3.5 mm snap-in chassis jacks and aux cords to connect the fixtures up. My initial thoughts were to splice into the spots identified in your diagram on fixtures 2 and 3 and connect to the chassis jacks. Then on fixture 1 (main fixture). I'd have two chassis jacks for the lines in on the other two fixtures. I'd then wire those straight into the spliced spots.

I was planning on just soldering all the wiring together. The jumper wires you recommended look more plug and play. Is that easier to do?

I apologize for all of the questions, but my electrical knowledge is pretty limited. So if I were to use the jumper wires, when I splice the black line on the fixture does that just plug into the female jumper wire?