T5 actinic par question

[mfinn]

Does anyone have the par numbers for T5 actinic bulbs.
I usually go with ATI bulbs in my fixture.

 

[spsick]

In an actively cooled ATI fixture they put out around 600 PAR at the bulb new/broken in. That drops to 250 after 9 months. A blue Plus puts out 1150 PAR New at the bulb and drops very little over its life.

As for in the tank, I cannot say as I have no way of measuring only 1 bulb.

 

[penguinexdeus]

Does anyone have the par numbers for T5 actinic bulbs.
I usually go with ATI bulbs in my fixture.

How many bulbs, mounting height, fixture/ reflectors, tank depth, and where in tank you want to measure ( bottom/ top) all matter… impossible to answer with just this

 

[ryshark]

Does anyone have the par numbers for T5 actinic bulbs.
I usually go with ATI bulbs in my fixture.

BRS made a good video that shows the par for every ATI bulb.

 

[Midrats]

I wonder why the output drops so much faster than the B+ considering the B+ is composed of a large portion of actinic.

 

[mfinn]

BRS made a good video that shows the par for every ATI bulb.

I'm not finding it.
If you have a link to the specific spot

 

[spsick]

I wonder why the output drops so much faster than the B+ considering the B+ is composed of a large portion of actinic.

It is weird but I’ve tested every ATI bulb except AB Special. Actinic and Purple Plus lose a ton of output over time where B+ and C+ lose like 10-15%.

 

[mfinn]

My goal was to drop the par numbers I'm getting from my 6 x 24 watt T5 fixture. With this fixture it's 2 bulbs, 4 bulbs, or all 6
With a pair of Reef Brite XHO strips on each side and using all Blue + bulbs I'm getting par numbers higher than I want when all 6 bulbs are on, but lower than I want when only 2 bulbs are on.
I could use just the 4 bulb side, but would prefer to use all the bulbs and get the wider spread.
I thought going with a few actinic bulbs the par numbers would be less than the Blue+ bulbs.
Raising the fixture higher in not an option.

 

[ryshark]

I'm not finding it.
If you have a link to the specific spot

Here you go. They tested specific PAR for all the T5 bulbs.

 

[mfinn]

I was hoping just for a numbers check,

 

[mfinn]

Here you go. They tested specific PAR for all the T5 bulbs.

Thank-you

 

[ryshark]

My goal was to drop the par numbers I'm getting from my 6 x 24 watt T5 fixture. With this fixture it's 2 bulbs, 4 bulbs, or all 6
With a pair of Reef Brite XHO strips on each side and using all Blue + bulbs I'm getting par numbers higher than I want when all 6 bulbs are on, but lower than I want when only 2 bulbs are on.
I could use just the 4 bulb side, but would prefer to use all the bulbs and get the wider spread.
I thought going with a few actinic bulbs the par numbers would be less than the Blue+ bulbs.
Raising the fixture higher in not an option.

Looks like the actinic bulbs are about 30% less par.

 

[spsick]

My goal was to drop the par numbers I'm getting from my 6 x 24 watt T5 fixture. With this fixture it's 2 bulbs, 4 bulbs, or all 6
With a pair of Reef Brite XHO strips on each side and using all Blue + bulbs I'm getting par numbers higher than I want when all 6 bulbs are on, but lower than I want when only 2 bulbs are on.
I could use just the 4 bulb side, but would prefer to use all the bulbs and get the wider spread.
I thought going with a few actinic bulbs the par numbers would be less than the Blue+ bulbs.
Raising the fixture higher in not an option.

Wow that tank must be BLUUUUEEEEEE.

 

[mfinn]

Wow that tank must be BLUUUUEEEEEE.

Different strokes for different folks.

 

[rtparty]

After the burn in period, actinic bulbs have PAR close to the Blue Plus. I don’t have the link handy but will see if I can dig it up

Edit: I think this is the link. Go to the charts for the readings. After burn in is surprising to see

ATI/Giesemann lamp writeup

docs.google.com

 

[piranhaman00]

You use 6 blue plus bulbs with 2 xho blue? That must look horrible. What is there even to look at in the tank?

 

[mfinn]

You use 6 blue plus bulbs with 2 xho blue? That must look horrible. What is there even to look at in the tank?

Why would you even care what my tank looks like.
Worry about your own

 

[mfinn]

After the burn in period, actinic bulbs have PAR close to the Blue Plus. I don’t have the link handy but will see if I can dig it up

Edit: I think this is the link. Go to the charts for the readings. After burn in is surprising to see

ATI/Giesemann lamp writeup

docs.google.com

Thank-you

 

[Bpb]

The output will be slightly less with actinics. A decent apogee meter will have been optimized to be able to read wavelengths that short without much error. A decade or two ago, and it’s a different conversation but they’ve improved to read deep violet light very well. But yes, the output is slightly less. Visually much dimmer. Can you not also raise the lights higher to reduce intensity? Are your leds dimmed or just on/off?

 

[mfinn]

The output will be slightly less with actinics. A decent apogee meter will have been optimized to be able to read wavelengths that short without much error. A decade or two ago, and it’s a different conversation but they’ve improved to read deep violet light very well. But yes, the output is slightly less. Visually much dimmer. Can you not also raise the lights higher to reduce intensity? Are your leds dimmed or just on/off?

I have a Apogee MQ-510 to measure the par.
My small tank is in the room where I sit at my computer and I am trying to minimize the light glare.
The fixture is at 8" above the water and the glare isn't bad.
The leds are just on/off.
I was hoping the actinic would have enough less par to use a couple of them.

But doesn't look like it.
Maybe if I can diy a decent looking light shade, them raising the fixture up higher would be my solution.

Thanks