T5/LED combination fixtures!?!?!?

[jedimasterben]

I also read ATI along with another company(not mentioned, I bet ecotech) are the only two companies to produce a fixture with some unique blue led(new technology- I believe manufactured by Phillips)that is what makes a difference when we talk color response in corals. I can't find the article, if I find it I will post it here.

This is what you're talking about: ATI LED-Powermodul T5 + LED reef light with higher intensity blue Philips diodes, thunderstorms too

The diodes are not special, by any means, in that they're simply cool/standard blue LEDs, peaking between 470 and 480nm. That spectrum is missing from all cool white LEDs, with the Cree XT-E being the worst offender - Cree has removed significant portions of spectrum in the XT-E to boost their luminous output, sacrificing color rendition. Any fixture built using XT-E cool whites without supplementation by warm whites will and do look awful. This is one reason I am glad that ATI will be using solely Philips LEDs in their fixture.

I have a very long writeup coming up soon that will explain the commonly used LEDs, and cool blue from Philips is among them.

 

[RavePartyReef]

Found it here we go. Make sure you read that at the bottom comments, ATI's CEO says they made a mistake on the article, and no green LEDs will be present.
Now why would a top company would just come out with a brand new light and not include green LEDs like the competitors? Because green is great to mimic color, but do not provide what the corals need. They wont be wasting room in the fixture with greens when they could be including top end blues, which makes sense. Before anyone asks, I'm not an ATI rep, and am just excited to see a great product that is aimed at benefiting the hobby instead of the fake lighting that is plain stupid if you ask me.

ATI LED-Powermodul T5 + LED reef light with higher intensity blue Philips diodes, thunderstorms too

 

[RavePartyReef]

Lol I was posting it an you beat me...

 

[RavePartyReef]

This is what you're talking about: ATI LED-Powermodul T5 + LED reef light with higher intensity blue Philips diodes, thunderstorms too

The diodes are not special, by any means, in that they're simply cool/standard blue LEDs, peaking between 470 and 480nm. That spectrum is missing from all cool white LEDs, with the Cree XT-E being the worst offender - Cree has removed significant portions of spectrum in the XT-E to boost their luminous output, sacrificing color rendition. Any fixture built using XT-E cool whites without supplementation by warm whites will and do look awful. This is one reason I am glad that ATI will be using solely Philips LEDs in their fixture.

I have a very long writeup coming up soon that will explain the commonly used LEDs, and cool blue from Philips is among them.

Cool, looking forward to it

 

[jedimasterben]

Found it here we go. Make sure you read that at the bottom comments, ATI's CEO says they made a mistake on the article, and no green LEDs will be present.
Now why would a top company would just come out with a brand new light and not include green LEDs like the competitors? Because green is great to mimic color, but do not provide what the corals need. They wont be wasting room in the fixture with greens when they could be including top end blues, which makes sense. Before anyone asks, I'm not an ATI rep, and am just excited to see a great product that is aimed at benefiting the hobby instead of the fake lighting that is plain stupid if you ask me.

ATI LED-Powermodul T5 + LED reef light with higher intensity blue Philips diodes, thunderstorms too

The reason Ecotech originally included green LEDs in their fixture was because people were using cyan in this thread: LED Aesthetics: What do you really think of your color? - Lighting Forum - Nano-Reef.com Forums

However, since Cree does not make a cyan LED, Ecotech figured true green would be just as good. Wrong. Even cool white LEDs have far too much green, and is one reason people crank them down in their fixtures, letting heavy royal blue wash it out, but turning down the whites also decreases color rendition, which is the issue that plagues even modern LEDs.

(btw, for those of you wondering, that thread is where Ecotech's R&D was)

 

[thanhreef]

My local club member contacted ATI a few week ago about it. They said they would release in the next couple of months. A ballpark price for the 36" 4 bulb is around $1200.

 

[reefhead]

I contacted ATI on Monday about this fixture. They used the word "soon" to describe the release date. Which shows it is still up in the air. I asked for more detail and was told a couple months pending no issues arise.

 

[RavePartyReef]

Lol I was posting it an you beat me...

My local club member contacted ATI a few week ago about it. They said they would release in the next couple of months. A ballpark price for the 36" 4 bulb is around $1200.

Wow I didn't know. That's pricy....

 

[Dowtish]

A guy from Poland uploaded this 2 weeks ago. Check out the fixture. Us folks here in the States are just left waiting...

[video=youtube_share;kdiNMtmbCuU]http://youtu.be/kdiNMtmbCuU[/video]

 

[RavePartyReef]

A guy from Poland uploaded this 2 weeks ago. Check out the fixture. Us folks here in the States are just left waiting...

[video=youtube_share;kdiNMtmbCuU]http://youtu.be/kdiNMtmbCuU[/video]

That's crazy...can't tell much from a video, but seems like the perfect color IMO...RIP Radions/Sols

 

[Dowtish]

There will always be the demand for the radion and sols. There are lots of people that are totally satisfied with them. And you will still get the argument about having to change out the t5's.

 

[Zack]

Man that fixture looks sweet, the color in the tank is fantastic

 

[RavePartyReef]

There will always be the demand for the radion and sols. There are lots of people that are totally satisfied with them. And you will still get the argument about having to change out the t5's.

IMO, The argument of having to change bulbs is so pointless when we talk coral health and color...I mean i get it when we are talking reefers that are are looking to always save and wouldn't really buy those fixtures to begin with. Radions, Sols and others are not intended for hobbyists that want a light to grow mushrooms, but indeed the serious hobbyist. This is an expensive hobby as we know. if you own an sps filled tank, you know what extent you would go to make the tank flourish, and you should also know by now how important lighting is... someone that doesnt buy a fixture that would allow his corals to be healthy due to the fact he has to spend at most $200 maybe 2 times a year should stick with cheaper leds, and should not complain the corals in their tanks lack color. My point is the technology we have now has down sides, t5s have that bulb issue. I would much rather though spend $ on bulbs knowing it has time and research proving that light will give results than spend similar amount on an led using the argument no bulbs need to be replaced, thus saving yourself the bulbs $ and wasting much more on the corals' look and purpose of the hobby.
Another issue is it is not yet proven LEDs last as long as advertised. Many companies claim thousands of hours when some tests show their efficiency dropping lots in much less time than expected due to temperature exposure.

 

[jedimasterben]

Another issue is it is not yet proven LEDs last as long as advertised. Many companies claim thousands of hours when some tests show their efficiency dropping lots in much less time than expected due to temperature exposure.

Uh, yeah? As long as the LED diode is kept sufficiently cool, it will last far longer than advertised, well past the L50 or L70 rating. That being said, truly keeping an LED diode cool requires mounting on superior MCPCB, properly heatsiking them, and actively cooling them. Most fixture manufacturers skip out on at least one of those.

 

[RavePartyReef]

Uh, yeah? As long as the LED diode is kept sufficiently cool, it will last far longer than advertised, well past the L50 or L70 rating. That being said, truly keeping an LED diode cool requires mounting on superior MCPCB, properly heatsiking them, and actively cooling them. Most fixture manufacturers skip out on at least one of those.

The last line of your comment makes another point, why do I need data and all that stupid info if it is not present on the fixture I'm spending lot of $ on?