T5/LED vs T5/Metal Hallide

I ended up switching to 2 blue + and 2 Actinic, as well as changing to 250 watt Phoenix 14k. I love the changes!!!! So far the tank is looking better IMO. I didn’t realize because I had so much blue but some of my coral were pale, they are slowly coloring up. Maybe I wasn’t using the radions correctly and needed something simple.

Which Radions were you using?

So you switched tubes and changed to 500W's of Halides and.... Radions (run at less than 100% btw) were a problem???
since expressing subtle emotions isn't easy consider the question more of a HUH!!! than anything else..;)
 
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Which Radions were you using?

So you switched tubes and changed to 500W's of Halides and Radions (run at less than 100% btw) were a problem???
since expressing subtle emotions isn't easy consider the question more of a HUH!!! than anything else..;)
2 Gen 3 pro xr30 with t5, I experienced bleaching when I would cut my radions up to high, seemed like I had hot spots so I added the diffusers, I saw improvements after that but never seemed to take off. It’s to early to make final conclusions though.
 
2 Gen 3 pro xr30 with t5, I experienced bleaching when I would cut my radions up to high, seemed like I had hot spots so I added the diffusers, I saw improvements after that but never seemed to take off. It’s to early to make final conclusions though.
THANKs.. that makes thing at least clearer..
Cool White: 8 Cree XP-G2 (40W)
• Deep Blue: 8 Osram Oslon Square (40W )
• Blue: 8 Cree XP-E (24W)
• Green: 4 Cree XP-E (14W)
• Hyper Red: 4 Osram Oslon SSL (12W)
• Yellow: 2 Osram Oslon SSL (6W)
• Indigo: 4 SemiLEDs (10W)
• UV: 4 SemiLEDs (10W)
WATTAGE
Variable Usage: 170W
MAX PAR: 1100

Just for reference.at full should be close to "effective" levels of a 250W MH.........diffusers can cut that by about 20%..
136W.. effective.
Keep in mind you also "upped" "not blue" a bit w/ the t5 switch..

Point is you switched multiple "things" each of which can have an effect..
To be honest, a better comparison would have been to not switch the t5's..

.sorry these things are my puzzles..;)

this has nothing to do w/ "which is better" but a why....
What was your last "pattern" w/ the Radions?
 
THANKs.. that makes thing at least clearer..


Just for reference.at full should be close to "effective" levels of a 250W MH.........diffusers can cut that by about 20%..
136W.. effective.
Keep in mind you also "upped" "not blue" a bit w/ the t5 switch..

Point is you switched multiple "things" each of which can have an effect..
To be honest, a better comparison would have been to not switch the t5's..

.sorry these things are my puzzles..;)

this has nothing to do w/ "which is better" but a why....
What was your last "pattern" w/ the Radions?
With the radions I was using 4 blue +, with the halides I was running 4 actinic but felt it needed more blue which is why I swapped out to have 2 blue + and 2 actinic. With the radions I was running sps ab+. FWIW I don’t have enough knowledge to say one is better and not enough time to validate if the halides work better for me.
 
With the radions I was using 4 blue +, with the halides I was running 4 actinic but felt it needed more blue which is why I swapped out to have 2 blue + and 2 actinic. With the radions I was running sps ab+. FWIW I don’t have enough knowledge to say one is better and not enough time to validate if the halides work better for me.
Think you'll like them

side note AB+ @ 100% intensity uses only 62% of the full output..
soo. 170W x .62= 105.4W... allowing for diffuser losses of 20%.... your radions were producing "84W" each....
you now replaced them w/ 250W each.
rough estimates..
 
I have a Par meter but haven’t checked the halides yet. I was getting 250-350 with the radion/t5.
 
Think you ill like them

side note AB= @ 100% intensity uses only 62% of the full output..
soo. 170W x .62= 105.4W... allowing for diffuser losses of 20%.... your radions were producing "84W" each....
you now replaced them w/ 250W each.
rough estimates..
I had the par loss of 15% with diffuser, not sure if that correlates to watts
 
I had the par loss of 15% with diffuser, not sure if that correlates to watts
Yea that corresponds to the 20% ...close enough. Just using past reported numbers..
Just like there is a "lumens/watt" number there is a PAR per watt..both are relatively linear...though LED's do get more efficient (higher lumens/watt but of course less overall lumens) as you decrease current thus "watts"..
Of course "geometry" determines this a bit and technically "PAR" (correct term is PPFD) is not like lumens (its like Lux/sec) so as long as you are measuring in the same spot.. you are "ok"..
Error of like 5% of 100 "PAR" is 5 "PAR" nothing worth splitting hairs over..
 
Yea that corresponds to the 20% ...close enough. Just using past reported numbers..
Just like there is a "lumens/watt" number there is a PAR per watt..both are relatively linear...though LED's do get more efficient (higher lumens/watt but of course less overall lumens) as you decrease current thus "watts"..
Of course "geometry" determines this a bit and technically "PAR" (correct term is PPFD) is not like lumens (its like Lux/sec) so as long as you are measuring in the same spot.. you are "ok"..
Error of like 5% of 100 "PAR" is 5 "PAR" nothing worth splitting hairs over..
Also to add I ran 4 54 watt blue + t5 at the same time I ran the radions. I now run t5 then halides then t5 but not at the same time so the watts should be close.
 
Also to add I ran 4 54 watt blue + t5 at the same time I ran the radions. I now run t5 then halides then t5 but not at the same time so the watts should be close.
I use watts for simple comparisons or glaring changes but, obviously, you know "PAR" is better..
 
Think you'll like them

side note AB+ @ 100% intensity uses only 62% of the full output..
soo. 170W x .62= 105.4W... allowing for diffuser losses of 20%.... your radions were producing "84W" each....
you now replaced them w/ 250W each.
rough estimates..
A halide is going to bleed out a various percentage of its light depending on the type of reflector it uses similar to a Radion that might lose 20 percent when a diffuser is added to reduce hotspots and widen coverage. They both pay a price to achieve coverage and reduce hotspots whether it's through the reflector or diffuser design. Now, assuming I've understood everything you've put down numbers wise correctly. Would you contend that if @leepink23 kept his T5HO's the same (4B+) and added 3 more Radions running the same program as you calculated wattage wise above (so about 527W total) over his tank that his results would be as good or better than if he switched to the ~500w halides?? Not a trick question just curious since that would be a more apples to apples comparison in terms of presumed radiated wattage. I'm using the 105.4W watt metric also because I imagine the coverage benefits the 5 radions would give could negate the need for any diffusers. And, more broadly, do you think a lot of the success stories of people switching from LED or LED hybrid to halide or full T5 are simply because the total radiant flux of the legacy tech is just higher due to increased wattages (ie ppl underspec the amount of LED modules they actually need to see really impressive success) ??
 
I ended up switching to 2 blue + and 2 Actinic, as well as changing to 250 watt Phoenix 14k. I love the changes!!!! So far the tank is looking better IMO. I didn’t realize because I had so much blue but some of my coral were pale, they are slowly coloring up. Maybe I wasn’t using the radions correctly and needed something simple.
14k phoenix is pretty much the only DE bulb I really trust these days. Not to knock any others, but the phoenix hexarc blue is such a known quantity and IMO the closest thing to a properly HQI driven 250W Radium lamp in terms of color and output. You've got a recipe for success on your hands right there I think.
 
Now, assuming I've understood everything you've put down numbers wise correctly. Would you contend that if @leepink23 kept his T5HO's the same (4B+) and added 3 more Radions running the same program as you calculated wattage wise above (so about 527W total) over his tank that his results would be as good or better than if he switched to the ~500w halides?? Not a trick question just curious since that would be a more apples to apples comparison in terms of presumed radiated wattage. I'm using the 105.4W watt metric also because I imagine the coverage benefits the 5 radions would give could negate the need for any diffusers.
I don't really use "good" or "better" just try to keep some aware of these things..
Like "black boxes" rated at 165W when in actuality its more like 90W.
do you think it's "fair" to judge it against a 250W MH?

And, more broadly, do you think a lot of the success stories of people switching from LED or LED hybrid to halide or full T5 are simply because the total radiant flux of the legacy tech is just higher due to increased wattages (ie ppl underspec the amount of LED modules they actually need to see really impressive success) ??

Yea I guess that is a fair statement..there are other factors but it's more or less the biggie..
People have done "PAR" to "PAR" comparisons and there are some differences, just not as dramatic for the most part going from say 100% photons to 150% photons.
That seems more like common sense..until you saturate the system..
 
I don't really use "good" or "better" just try to keep some aware of these things..
Like "black boxes" rated at 165W when in actuality its more like 90W.
do you think it's "fair" to judge it against a 250W MH?



Yea I guess that is a fair statement..there are other factors but it's more or less the biggie..
People have done "PAR" to "PAR" comparisons and there are some differences, just not as dramatic for the most part going from say 100% photons to 150% photons.
That seems more like common sense..until you saturate the system..

ok
 
I have had a frag rack in the tank 6+ months and never saw coralline algae growing on it until today. My glass coralline is taking off as well.
 
Before and afters. 1 month

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