All I can figure is it needs distance form the light.Oh yea, I assume I have at least 700-800 PAR at the water surface, the Seneye can't be reading it correctly.
Weird after all the stellar reviews too.
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All I can figure is it needs distance form the light.Oh yea, I assume I have at least 700-800 PAR at the water surface, the Seneye can't be reading it correctly.
Thanks! This is the info I have been looking for. I really appreciate it. I have been doubting my seneye for a while but the reviews are so good I had to second guess myself.Does the Seneye need the 1.32 immersion factor applied to it? I dunno, just asking.
I have an Apogee 510 and I measured next to a Seneye and it was not even close. The Seneye would get OK readings if we made sure to square it up perfectly, but like even a few degrees to the side and the number would drop significantly. I would trust some of the PAR maps that you see online or the ones from BRS, if they have them. My opinion from the dual test is that Seneye might be OK if you get it perfect, but the Apogee just worked with a pretty large margin for error.
The Apogee 510 is cosine corrected and does have the immersion factor applied already... you literally just put the sensor where you want and read it without much other effort.
Does the Seneye need the 1.32 immersion factor applied to it? I dunno, just asking.
I have an Apogee 510 and I measured next to a Seneye and it was not even close. The Seneye would get OK readings if we made sure to square it up perfectly, but like even a few degrees to the side and the number would drop significantly.
Makes me wonder how it got such great reviews and did well in side by sides.Is that piece "stretchy"?
Looks more like glue or silicone..
Seneye is not cosine corrected, Apogee 510 is so it'd designed to collect off axis light (think flood vs spot) so yes it's off axis light gathering is mostly non-existant..and no, since it's not designed for air the correction if any is already baked in..
I have looked at the lense before and never noticed anything, but I will look more closely when I get homeI think I figured out why my PAR readings are so low. I won't be able to confirm for a few days because I'm lending the senyeye to a fellow reefer, but I'm fairly confident that this was the issue.
Here's what I found this morning when I brought it to work. Under better lighting, I noticed the lens looked a little dirty.
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After a little rubbing with a microfiber cloth....
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I peeled off a thin little strip of plastic
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I have to believe that partially obscuring the lens was causing the issue. Can't wait to get it back under my lights and see the results.
@Davenkim , check your Seneye and see. I'm wondering if it's a slight mfg'ing defect.
I ordered a 510 that will be here in a week, so hopefully I will be able to compair soon!Does the Seneye need the 1.32 immersion factor applied to it? I dunno, just asking.
I have an Apogee 510 and I measured next to a Seneye and it was not even close. The Seneye would get OK readings if we made sure to square it up perfectly, but like even a few degrees to the side and the number would drop significantly. I would trust some of the PAR maps that you see online or the ones from BRS, if they have them. My opinion from the dual test is that Seneye might be OK if you get it perfect, but the Apogee just worked with a pretty large margin for error.
The Apogee 510 is cosine corrected and does have the immersion factor applied already... you literally just put the sensor where you want and read it without much other effort.
. Dark rooms w/ zero ambient (usually only a small factor anyways) which is quite off axis..

It’s not the light it’s the meter we’re taking about. (Yea you’ll get less blending etc ) but If it has a limited field of view it will read less of the light esp higher up and closer to the light.Well, one factor is the tight beams of LED's... Dark rooms w/ zero ambient (usually only a small factor anyways) which is quite off axis..
Last I "heard" was they were working to correct that "issue" ...
As long as you are perpendicular to the light you are OK..
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http://answers.seneye.com/en/Seneye...ht_meter_functions/using_the_reef_light_meter
It's a known known..
I've compared it out of water to a good LUX meter and, though it has some issues w/ close distances, it's pretty comparable..
LUX numbers are still wonky but PAR and LUX to PAR conversions w/ the LUX meter are tolerable..
This isn't a scientific instrument and any more than one trick pony device has some issues (till you pay big bucks).
seneye LUX readings make no sense though..
not crazy about Kelvin readings either..
fortunately nobody uses either in sw.. In fw a different story, .
It’s not the light it’s the meter we’re taking about. (Yea you’ll get less blending etc ) but If it has a limited field of view it will read less of the light esp higher up and closer to the light.
I can almost guarantee the window and the light bulb have zero impact on your par readings. If it does your wearing sunglasses inside.lol.
Same thing I found w/ the seneye and LUX meter.. For whatever reasons if you are around 3-6" (guessitmate from memory) from the light Seneyes read horribly low..and when I check the par readings I only get 120 at the top.


60x33x21 with 10 x 54w PM about 20-25cm above water. fan speed is 6v and 5 bulbs are 2 months old the the other 5 are 7 months. 5B+, 4AB and 1Fiji
That's about the only reasonable explanation for why it's measuring so much lower. So it's an adequate PAR meter for LED, but horrible for T5.^ best graph of the day.
Keep in mind that if you are measuring a 8 bulb T5, then every bulb will be off a bit... the ones on the end moreso than the ones in the middle.
That's about the only reasonable explanation for why it's measuring so much lower. So it's an adequate PAR meter for LED, but horrible for T5.
That outdoor par seems low. There's a website where you can type in longitude and latitude, as well as a bunch of other parameters to estimate par at that time and date. I find it to be very close to my apogee. Last time I did this it was around 1400 par.So I ran home at lunch thinking for sure I would get good readings on the T5 now, but alas
ATI 6x54W (3C+,3B+) @ 8in center of fixture, seneye perpendicular to light, about a 10% increase without the occlusion on the lens, but still not what I believe the light to be putting out (more like 700).
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Interestingly, if I turn the seneye parallel to the light, it jumps again, so there's definitely something going on with angle of light and distance.
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What's even more confusing to me, is that it seems to read an LED just fine, My AI PrimeHD @ 8in
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But there's no way that little LED is putting out more PAR than an ATI 6bulb.
Just for giggles I took a reading outside, cloudy sunlight at noon CST
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