T5s don't turn on. Help please...

twinspots_goby

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My friend has a Icecap retrofit kit. 4 x 36" bulbs set up with a IceCap 660 ballast. It worked fine till last week. It quit turning on. He tried to unplug it and plug it back. Only 2 out of 4 bulbs lighted up for a second and then turned off. He brought it to my house and we were trying to trouble shoot. My first thought was he might have bad bulbs. So I helpe to chang all 4 new bulbs and it did the same thing. Then I thought it might be the ballast or wire hardness. So I swapped the hardness and the ballast that I'm using for my other T5 ( I know they are working). Then it did the same thing. So it seems that it's not the ballast, not the wire hardness and not the bulbs. Now I'm lost. What am I missing here? Please help.
 
I would've guessed ballast. Everytime Ive had this problem it was either bad connection with bulbs or a fried ballast.
 
I'm sure it's not the ballast. I tested it with my current working ballst and it didn't work.
 
All I can think of is a lose wire/connection somewhere.
 
Cool. I will check and make sure all connections are good in the endcaps.
 
just checked all endcaps and made sure the connections were ok. it still does the same thing. 2 bulbs lighted up and then all turn off.
 
it sounds like a bad wire check it with a meter that is what is normally does this
 
What was left of his equipment when u used your harness and ballast?

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if its a 660, all the lamps flashed on then off it's likely the ballast if one or two of the lamps flashed on, it's the wiring or lamps.If you have swapped ballasts and it lights up, you know it's the ballast. if you have an OHM meter or continuity checker there's a quick test that can be performed to trouble shoot a system run by an ice cap. this is for situations were some of the lamps flash on and off for a split second while other lamps do nothing. The lamps that flash are fine You need to check the other connections With a ice cap you need to power off and on again to check to see if it will work.Fixing it without powering off will not cause the lamps to light.Repeatedly turning it on and off quickly will cause a ballast failure so don't go crazy.
1.disconnect from the power source(unplug it)
2.pull the harness connector off the ballast.You don't need the ballast or AC electricity to do this test.
3.With the endcaps mounted and lamps in place,you can now test the entire system from the end of the harness(the male molex connector the part usually inside the ballast)
4. use the two probes as follows.
for each pair of colored wires used in your application you want to test for continuity.To do this you insert the probes into the exposed molex pins that are connected to the correct wires.Wires not used,like for a 660 unit 2 or 3 lamps are ignored(these wires should be caped off)
5.if you find you have continuity (the signal from one blue wire,for example, goes down the wire to the endcap to the lamp's pin across the filament back to the pin the endcap and to the blue wire and back to the connector)check the other pairs.If they all have continuity,the only other connections are the jumpers wires.Check those lamps at the end by going pin to pin on the same end of the lamp.
6. If it shows continuity on all connections your ballast needs to be fixed.i got this from icecap hope this helps.
 
Thanks a lot for your details. I will have to spend some time and check and test it thoroughly.
 
Man that really sucks. Is there a faulty fuse? I use these Helio T-5s that I have to bang around sometimes to get it working. They told me to replace the fuse every year.
Hope you fix it.
 
I think the fuse is OK. I'm pretty sure the problem is not the ballast cause I swap it with my currently working ballast and it's still the same issue. Only 2 bulbs lighted for a second, then turned off. make me think it's the connection problems. inside the connectors, I do see some blue color which means the copper wires have been rusted. I will have to check carefully.
 

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