Talk To Me About QT Tanks...

EmilyXLC · Aug 13, 2012

Well, now that we have the RO unit up & running, we are starting to get ready to set up our tank. However, I have been researching starting up a quarantine tank as well. I have a 46 gallon that will be our main display tank. If everything goes according to plan, we will be adding a larger tank to our home next year (around 100+ gallon). Here are my questions...

Considering the tank sizes I will be accommodating, what would be the best size to do as a QT? I know a lot of people just use 10 gallons but I was wondering if, perhaps, a 20 would be better?

I've read the sticky here on QT tanks, but there seemed to be some people who like the idea of adding LR & LS to it, while others want it bare with hiding areas made of eggcrate. Thoughts?

What equipment do I need to be running on it? I obviously need a filter of some sort & I've seen some people run skimmers... What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance! : )

EmilyXLC · Aug 13, 2012

Also, forgot to ask...

There's a lot of different brands of test kits out there. Which one would you guys recommend?

steamer51 · Aug 13, 2012

I have been advised not to add rock and sand to a QT because if parasites are introduced they will live there just like they would in a DT. This means you would not be able to use the rock and sand for future QT or keep the QT fishless for a long period until the ich or whatever died off without a host.

SeahorseKeeper · Aug 13, 2012

Here is some info from a sticky I was working on.

Tank:

The first thing that is needed is a tank. Now, the tank does not have to be large. It all depends on the size of the specimens that you are quarantining. If you have a large tank and get large fish, then go at least a 40 breeder. If you are quarantining smaller fish like clowns or firefish, then get a smaller tank. I recommend a 20 long as a good quarantine tank. However, the tank does not necessarily have to be a fish tank. It can be a Rubbermaid container (food grade quality). The key is that you need to be able to clearly see the fish to be able to observe it for any signs of disease. This would be difficult to do with a rubbermaid container.

Filtration:

I would recommend a hang on back filter or even a canister filter if it is available. I find it best to use a filter that is rated at least double the size of the tank. For example, your tank is 20 gallons therefore I would get a filter rated for 40 gallons. During the quarantine period, it is acceptable to run carbon. If at any point you need to medicate the tank, remove the carbon. Carbon will absorb the medication making the treatment useless.

Heaters:

An appropriately sized heater for the tank is recommended. You want to replicate the same temp for the quarantine as you would the DT. This will help make the transition to the DT a little smoother.

Light:

I recommend having a light for the tank. This will make it easier for you to see the fish.

Magnifying Glass:

This will make it easier for you to see parasites on the fish.

Aquaph8 · Aug 13, 2012

Great info^^^^^, A 20L works great. I used an aqua clear 30 hang on the back filter for a long time and had nothing but problems keeping the water clean. MikeandTerry talked me into getting a larger AC 70 and use two sponges and it's been a lot better.

EmilyXLC · Aug 13, 2012

Thanks, guys! Great information!

Dowtish · Aug 13, 2012

I think the most important part of a QT is whether or not it is fully cycled. the last thing you need to be worrying about is whether the is going to be okay because of toxic levels. They are stressed enough by the time they get to your tank, and especially if they are sick. Smaller tanks are easier to keep up with water changes, but I have a 55 gallon QT, and when I set it up I was in a hurry to get fish in the tank to treat them with meds. I had to do lots of water changes in order to keep the ammonia down. and by doing so, i was kind of arresting the natural cycle. Using 'Prime' by seachem is a must in my opinion as well. that will keep the ammonia levels less toxic. I also run an AC70 on mine with a sponge filter, and i just keep it running all the time.

ritter6788 · Aug 13, 2012

Mine is a 20 high, aquaclear 70 hob filter, sponge seeded from my display, heater, cheapo light, no rock, no sand, PVC tubes for hiding places.

EmilyXLC · Aug 14, 2012

Great, everyone! Thank you!

Dumb question, but what are the sponges that everyone is talking about?

Also, has anyone had any success with the Red Sea, API or Instant Ocean test kits?

Tinola · Aug 14, 2012

Sponge = Filter Sponge. Or if you wanna go fancy, a sponge filter like these guys

API for Amm, trite, trate, and pH. Either Salifert, Red Sea(new one, not old), EOS for Ca, Mg, and kH. Hannah tester for Phosphate.

Aquaph8 · Aug 14, 2012

The aqua clear filters have sponge inserts. Most people leave one in their sump at all times so it's seeded with bacteria and ready to use at all times. This way you can tear down and reset up your QT if you don't want it running all the time.

EmilyXLC · Aug 14, 2012

What do you do with the sponges? Just stick them in the compartment where the filter normally goes?

Do you use these instead of the filter pads because of the carbon? What if I'm not medicating my fish & only QTing them before going into the DT? I'll keep a couple on hand just in case one gets sick, though.

Aquaph8 · Aug 14, 2012

The sponges pretty much are the filter, they're the insert that comes with them. You can also run carbon, just take it out when you use meds,

Giancarlo · Aug 14, 2012

Do you plan to quarantine coral as well? Or just fish?

EmilyXLC · Aug 14, 2012

Oh... That's a good question. I hadn't even thought about that!

Is it a good practice to QT corals as well?

jgraz · Aug 14, 2012

I'm starting a QT also. In my case I'm using a 20 gal high that I used to have as a nano. It's drilled so I'm gonna have to have a sump. But a HOB is just fine. The difference for me is that I'm planning on QTing all new corals as well as inverts. This will strictly be an observation tank. No medication will ever hit this tank. I highly suggest QTing corals also. I've had run-ins with red bugs and montipora eating nudibranches that my dipping regiment failed to save me from. Red bugs were easy. Nudis not so much. If I ever have to medicate fish I'll just remove to a hospital tank.

Tabasco1 · Aug 14, 2012

I think so. I ended up unintentionally setting up a frag tank first and it has actually worked out really well. Getting ready to set up my display after a year but I was new to coral (not marine fish) and definately helped w the learning curve. I've had several corals come in with aiptasia. Two from vendors and one from a fellow reefer. The frag tank allowed me to catch them and take care of them before there was an issue. There are many other reasons to qt coral. But just seeing that I won't ever just stick a coral in my dt.

Im using the frag tank moving forward as a frag/observation tank.

Mr. Limpid · Aug 14, 2012

I have successfully QT 8 fish, 20 hermits, coral banded shrimp and a arrow crab using this set up. A 10gal QT that has enough filtration, so that its water quality is as good as your DT.
Items needed:
10gal tank (paint bottom black)
heater
Thermometer
hood with light
water pump (100 gph)
2' plastic tube
plastic glove box with lid (got mine at Menard's $2.00)
buy and extra lid
1/2" pvc 2 piece coupler with rubber washer
1/2" pvc elbow
pvc cement
silicone cement
electrical tape
1 box bio balls
scrap plywood
How to Build:
The filter box: cut edges off of one lid so it will fit inside of box, drill holes in this lid starting in middle with small holes 1/16" (not so many) then further out use 1/8" closer together. Cut hole (use razor blade) on bottom side of box for 1/2" pvc, cement coupler in hole with washer on outside of box, attach elbow and point it down. Silicone outside and inside around the pvc coupler. Cut the other lid in half width wise (save other side). Out of scape plywood build a box stand to set glove box on so that pvc elbow clears top of tank. Using the scape half lid cut piece so that it will fit under box and hang over into tank (this is a drip catch under your pvc spout, does not need to go out to end of spout just into tank), heat the plastic over stove to make plastic pliable, bend edge downward (cool under running water). Fill glove box with bio balls add drilled cover, then half lid. Install pump, install plastic tube so it will reach the center of glove box and secure to half lid with silicone cement add electrical tape to hold down tube to glove box(added security). Add pvc pipe or coffee cups (for hiding places) fill tank with salt water and cycle tank (see Beth's thread for cycling). This tank will work great for one fish at a time, I have QT two small fish, even a chevron tang and a lattice butterfly, just make sure you have a bottle of prime and new water made up in advance.

I hope this helps.

jgraz · Aug 14, 2012

Mr. Limpid said:
I have successfully QT 8 fish, 20 hermits, coral banded shrimp and a arrow crab using this set up. A 10gal QT that has enough filtration, so that its water quality is as good as your DT.
Items needed:
10gal tank (paint bottom black)
heater
Thermometer
hood with light
water pump (100 gph)
2' plastic tube
plastic glove box with lid (got mine at Menard's $2.00)
buy and extra lid
1/2" pvc 2 piece coupler with rubber washer
1/2" pvc elbow
pvc cement
silicone cement
electrical tape
1 box bio balls
scrap plywood
How to Build:
The filter box: cut edges off of one lid so it will fit inside of box, drill holes in this lid starting in middle with small holes 1/16" (not so many) then further out use 1/8" closer together. Cut hole (use razor blade) on bottom side of box for 1/2" pvc, cement coupler in hole with washer on outside of box, attach elbow and point it down. Silicone outside and inside around the pvc coupler. Cut the other lid in half width wise (save other side). Out of scape plywood build a box stand to set glove box on so that pvc elbow clears top of tank. Using the scape half lid cut piece so that it will fit under box and hang over into tank (this is a drip catch under your pvc spout, does not need to go out to end of spout just into tank), heat the plastic over stove to make plastic pliable, bend edge downward (cool under running water). Fill glove box with bio balls add drilled cover, then half lid. Install pump, install plastic tube so it will reach the center of glove box and secure to half lid with silicone cement add electrical tape to hold down tube to glove box(added security). Add pvc pipe or coffee cups (for hiding places) fill tank with salt water and cycle tank (see Beth's thread for cycling). This tank will work great for one fish at a time, I have QT two small fish, even a chevron tang and a lattice butterfly, just make sure you have a bottle of prime and new water made up in advance.

I hope this helps.