Tang in a 40b?!

[SudzFD]

Yeah I’d rather have a fish that I could keep forever, so no tang for now

Sounds smart to me.

 

[noxel56]

That’s a good lookin 40b.
it’s an exciting hobby. I think you will have years of enjoyment. My biggest suggestion (wish I had done it in the beginning) Quarantine YOU FISH AND CORALS- (or at lease dip your corals if not QT) this will save you head aches and problems later. Unless you are like I was: I added whatever I liked at the lfs. This was before the internet and the Availability if information and without a mentor in the hobby. I started with zero knowledge except I knew I wanted a reef tank. Ive dealt with all kinds of pests, Diseases, bacteria, Algae’s, fighting fish etc. I learned a lot but all the hard way lol.

it’s awesome your father is knowledgeable in the hobby, and that it’s 2020 and information is more readily available now then ever before-Especially in this hobby. If I was you, and this is just a suggestion, I would do all of the cleaning, water changes, dosing and treating etc. yourself with your father. This way you get hands-on experience And will probably learn a lot from him. Plus I’m sure he will enjoy spending that time with you, and when your old you will appreciate it as well.

Most importantly have fun. Take care my friend and happy reefing!

Thank you for the kind words! I know this is off topic but I’m gonna ask anyways. Can you please explain the whole process of quarantine? Like how long should a fish be in qt, what would I have to dose, etc. this is another topic I was wondering about and debating on wether to do it or not. Also what do you mean by quarantining corals? Do you mean like dipping them? If so I plan on dipping. Thanks for all the help. That is one part I love about this hobby, the community.
Edit: Grammar

 

[TheShrimpNibbler]

So

Sorry for the late reply. What would you stock a 40b with? Also is yours a 45 cube because I love those tanks.

My tank is not a cube, it’s a 45 long I think. Gobies are great fish, and I really love my goby and pistol shrimp pair. Royal grammas are also good fish. Blennies, firefish, flasher wrasses, hawkfish, and clownfish are other good options. There are some other smaller wrasses too, as well as other basslets. I’m sure that I’m forgetting some fish too. You should make a list of ones that you like the looks of and then ask how they would work together.

 

[noxel56]

My tank is not a cube, it’s a 45 long I think. Gobies are great fish, and I really love my goby and pistol shrimp pair. Royal grammas are also good fish. Blennies, firefish, flasher wrasses, hawkfish, and clownfish are other good options. There are some other smaller wrasses too, as well as other basslets. I’m sure that I’m forgetting some fish too. You should make a list of ones that you like the looks of and then ask how they would work together.

I love the longnose hawkfish but I’ve heard the can be aggressive and they are reef safe with caution.

 

[TheShrimpNibbler]

Thank you for the kind words! I know this is off topic but I’m gonna ask anyways. Can you please explain the whole process of quarantine? Like how long should a fish be in qt, what would I have to dose, etc. this is another topic I was wondering about and debating on wether to do it or not. Also what do you mean by quarantining corals? Do you mean like dipping them? If so I plan on dipping. Thanks for all the help. That is one part I love about this hobby, the community.
Edit: Grammar

For quarantining fish, I would recommend getting fish acclimated, and then thirty days of copper at therapeutic levels. After that use carbon to remove the copper and treat with Prazipro. When that’s done, put the carbon back in and watch the fish. If they seem fine, acclimate them to your tank. To quarantine corals, you have to set up a specific tank with no fish, and leave all corals in there for 76 days. You should quarantine all inverts in there. You shouldn’t introduce anything new at all to the tank during those 76 days. If you want the reasoning behind this process explained, let me know.

 

[CuzzA]

Thank you for the kind words! I know this is off topic for the thread but I’m gonna and anyways. Can you please explain the whole process of quarantine? Like how long shodul a fish be in qt, what woeful I have to dose, etc. this is another topic I was wondering about an debating on wether to do it or not. Also what do you mean by quarantining corals? Do you mean like dipping them? If so I plan on dipping. Thanks for all the help. That is one part I love about this hobby, the community.

For your size display I would buy two 5 gallons tanks, two bio sponge air filters (put in sump now to build up bacteria, never put back the sponge after treatment. Buy a new sponge) , air pump, two heaters, two thermometers, a few large PVC fittings or resin coral decorations, two ammonia badges, Copper Power, Furan 2, Prazi Pro, Dr. G's Anti Parasite food and a Copper Hanna Checker. This gives you a good arsenal for what you'll likely face.

One 5 gallon would be the treatment tank and the other would be the observation. I'd freshwater dip all new fish before putting into the treatment tank and see if any flukes jump off. From there you are observing the fish for thirty days to make sure no diseases, infections or parasites pop up. You'll be looking for white spots, open sores, white stringy poop, anything unusual. If nothing pops up then I would move to the display. If something does pop up then I would treat in the treatment tank and then after treatment move it to the observation tank to ensure your were successful, then into the display.

QT also allows your new fish to settle in to captive life and it gives you a chance to get it eating well to prepared foods. I mentioned earlier about captive bred fish. This can be an excellent way to add disease and parasite free fish, but only if they were never mixed in with wild fish. Nevertheless, I would still observe the fish before introducing to the display.

 

[TheShrimpNibbler]

I love the longnose hawkfish but I’ve heard the can be aggressive and they are reef safe with caution.

They aren’t super aggressive to fish, but they aren’t safe with shrimp and hermits usually. This is why they are reef safe with caution.

 

[noxel56]

For quarantining fish, I would recommend getting fish acclimated, and then thirty days of copper at therapeutic levels. After that use carbon to remove the copper and treat with Prazipro. When that’s done, put the carbon back in and watch the fish. If they seem fine, acclimate them to your tank. To quarantine corals, you have to set up a specific tank with no fish, and leave all corals in there for 76 days. You should quarantine all inverts in there. You shouldn’t introduce anything new at all to the tank during those 76 days. If you want the reasoning behind this process explained, let me know.

Yes please. 76 days seems very long for quarantine. It would be greatly appreciated if you could briefly explain it.

 

[noxel56]

For your size display I would buy two 5 gallons tanks, two bio sponge air filters (put in sump now to build up bacteria, never put back the sponge after treatment. Buy a new sponge) , air pump, two heaters, two thermometers, a few large PVC fittings or resin coral decorations, two ammonia badges, Copper Power, Furan 2, Prazi Pro, Dr. G's Anti Parasite food and a Copper Hanna Checker. This gives you a good arsenal for what you'll likely face.

One 5 gallon would be the treatment tank and the other would be the observation. I'd freshwater dip all new fish before putting into the treatment tank and see if any flukes jump off. From there you are observing the fish for thirty days to make sure no diseases, infections or parasites pop up. You'll be looking for white spots, open sores, white stringy poop, anything unusual. If nothing pops up then I would move to the display. If something does pop up then I would treat in the treatment tank and then after treatment move it to the observation tank to ensure your were successful, then into the display.

QT, also allows your new fish to settle in to captive life and it gives you a chance to get it eating well to prepared foods. I mentioned earlier about captive bred fish. This can be an excellent way to add disease and parasite free fish, but only if they were never mixed in with wild fish. Nevertheless, I would still observe the fish before introducing to the display.

Yeah my dad buys his fish wholesale from a place that breeds clowns. They have never seen the ocean or any fish from it.

 

[noxel56]

For your size display I would buy two 5 gallons tanks, two bio sponge air filters (put in sump now to build up bacteria, never put back the sponge after treatment. Buy a new sponge) , air pump, two heaters, two thermometers, a few large PVC fittings or resin coral decorations, two ammonia badges, Copper Power, Furan 2, Prazi Pro, Dr. G's Anti Parasite food and a Copper Hanna Checker. This gives you a good arsenal for what you'll likely face.

One 5 gallon would be the treatment tank and the other would be the observation. I'd freshwater dip all new fish before putting into the treatment tank and see if any flukes jump off. From there you are observing the fish for thirty days to make sure no diseases, infections or parasites pop up. You'll be looking for white spots, open sores, white stringy poop, anything unusual. If nothing pops up then I would move to the display. If something does pop up then I would treat in the treatment tank and then after treatment move it to the observation tank to ensure your were successful, then into the display.

QT also allows your new fish to settle in to captive life and it gives you a chance to get it eating well to prepared foods. I mentioned earlier about captive bred fish. This can be an excellent way to add disease and parasite free fish, but only if they were never mixed in with wild fish. Nevertheless, I would still observe the fish before introducing to the display.

Also you think 5 gallons would be to small? I can get 2 10s if that would work better.

 

[Bfragale]

There are already a lot of good answers and information. The short answer: The reason for the long wait it to make sure no pests present themselves, and also to out live the life cycle of some pests. For example: Some pests need fish as a host, so having corals without any fish will allow certain pests to live their life cycle and die off before you introduce to your main tank. Or let’s say there is one micro aptasia: you may not see it until after sometime it’s in your display tank (DT) and spreading like crazy. It sounds like a long time, and many people do not do this. But if you do, you will be a head of most and on your way to keeping a pristine reef tank.

I think it is the Best* practice for the long term, but again: many just dip and put in DT. I mean (most) pests are not the end of the world, but still better off to avoid them when you can. There is a lot of good info here on R2R regarding QT tanks and processes. Also, a lot of people WAY more knowledgeable them I am aswell is you run into any specific issues.

 

[CuzzA]

Also you think 5 gallons would be to small? I can get 2 10s if that would work better.

Ten's would be better because you could fill them half way and it gives you the ability to dilute should you have an ammonia spike or overdose of medication. I mention the 5's because you're not going to be dealing with large fish in this system. I would also qt one at a time. No sense in risking infecting a healthy fish with one that is compromised.

 

[TheShrimpNibbler]

Yes please. 76 days seems very long for quarantine. It would be greatly appreciated if you could briefly explain it.

The longest known time that it has taken for an ich timing, which is basically the egg form of ich, to hatch is 72 days. It then takes another 4 days for the resulting theronts to die off. Because tomonts can attach to any hard surfaces, including things like corals and snail shells, all inverts should be quarantined. If anything is introduced to the tank during this 76 day period, there is a risk of new ich being introduced, so you should restart the timer. Once the 76 days are over though, you can move corals to your dt.

 

[CuzzA]

I do not qt coral or inverts. I scrub snail and crab shells with a stiff brush. I dip my corals but not before removing frag plugs and cutting off as much exposed rock or skeleton. Basically all I want is the coral and its tissue. So far this has worked for me. I don't have any aptasia or vermitted snails. Knocks wood. QTing everything would be best, I suppose I am taking a slight risk with inverts.

 

[tupes]

Thank you for the kind words! I know this is off topic but I’m gonna ask anyways. Can you please explain the whole process of quarantine? Like how long should a fish be in qt, what would I have to dose, etc. this is another topic I was wondering about and debating on wether to do it or not. Also what do you mean by quarantining corals? Do you mean like dipping them? If so I plan on dipping. Thanks for all the help. That is one part I love about this hobby, the community.
Edit: Grammar

Here are two excellent threads on quarantine. One is discussing fish and the other of corals and inverts.

Fish

How to Quarantine

How to Setup a Quarantine Tank The following are the bare essentials: Aquarium (10-30 gallons seems to work for most people. Bigger QT lets you house more fish and gives you more wiggle room when it comes to ammonia. Smaller QT is cheaper, easier to maintain and can be setup/broke down...

www.reef2reef.com

Corals

Coral/Invert Quarantine Time Frames

Coral/Invert Quarantine Time Frames Preface: The purpose of this article is to outline time periods required to properly quarantine (QT) marine corals & invertebrates. While unable to host ectoparasites the way fish do, corals/inverts are still able to “carry” fish diseases in one of two ways...

www.reef2reef.com