Tang with ICH

I have been practicing ich management for the past 4 months, everything has been going well. Haven’t seen any spots on any of my fish. My blue hippo tang caused the outbreak and qt wasn’t an option. I feed regularly with selcon drops.
 
Here's an update: I canceled my Divers Den order with my new tang and blenni. Thank fully they canceled. So, now I have to manage the ich. Im hopping the ich wont go to all the fish. Ill be buying Ich Attack, this is the best stuff I found based on reviews. I was excited about Kick Ich and Rally but all the real reviews show poor results. The Ich Attack will let the fish heal, I just hope they make it.

Maybe my yellow tang is to mean to the Caribbean tang and hes stressed out. I have had the Caribbean tang for 5 weeks and the yellow tang for 3.
 
Here's an update: I canceled my Divers Den order with my new tang and blenni. Thank fully they canceled. So, now I have to manage the ich. Im hopping the ich wont go to all the fish. Ill be buying Ich Attack, this is the best stuff I found based on reviews. I was excited about Kick Ich and Rally but all the real reviews show poor results. The Ich Attack will let the fish heal, I just hope they make it.

Maybe my yellow tang is to mean to the Caribbean tang and hes stressed out. I have had the Caribbean tang for 5 weeks and the yellow tang for 3.

Good luck.
 
I wouldn't request anymore DD fish unless you plan on QTing them and all of your current fish.

DD fish usually show up healthy and eating, but they are NOT parasite free. I have a couple in QT now, definitely came with ich.
 
Let me echo what others are saying here — letting it ride out if it already affecting your tang and angel leads me to believe you’re dealing with velvet. More importantly, neither fish does all that well in ich management, let alone velvet if that’s the case. Photos would help immensely.

If sounds like spots are appearing and vanishing quickly, this makes me suspect velvet even further.

I’ve ripped apart vibrant 125-180 gallon reefs by removing rock and drained all the water out a few times before I figured out quarantine was the only way— it’s a few hours job and the only way to do it right, long-term.

This is even more true with velvet, which is everywhere right now.
 
Let me echo what others are saying here — letting it ride out if it already affecting your tang and angel leads me to believe you’re dealing with velvet. More importantly, neither fish does all that well in ich management, let alone velvet if that’s the case. Photos would help immensely.

If sounds like spots are appearing and vanishing quickly, this makes me suspect velvet even further.

I’ve ripped apart vibrant 125-180 gallon reefs by removing rock and drained all the water out a few times before I figured out quarantine was the only way— it’s a few hours job and the only way to do it right, long-term.

This is even more true with velvet, which is everywhere right now.

I'll try to get pictures, very hard my phone dose not show them well. I do believe its ich and not velvet. velvet has a dusty look to it as the pictures I have seen. My fish has clear white spots. but time will tell unfortunately.
 
I wouldn't request anymore DD fish unless you plan on QTing them and all of your current fish.

DD fish usually show up healthy and eating, but they are NOT parasite free. I have a couple in QT now, definitely came with ich.

Thought DD was the best choice. I was doing well with my 12 fish until I added the tangs. My buddy added a tang and he got ich instantly. It must be a tang thing.
 
It also doesnt mean it came in on the tang, the tangs could have just exacerbated the problem. They tend to be magnets for ich. If you aren't going to remove them, you must feed as often as possible and feed high quality frozen foods and nori. As someone else said, do not raise the temp. that will only make it harder for them to breath and add stress. There are other mechanisms to aid in helping them manage it such as diatom filters, ozone generators, and UV sterilization. Again as someone else stated it sounds more like velvet so you may not have time on your side to implement those definitely worth looking into going forward. What are you currently feeding them and how often?
 
Others may disagree with me on this, but I have a blue tang that frequently gets ich and this method has always worked for me. As soon as I notice ich on the tang, I increase feeding (targeting the sick fish) by 1.5-2x the normal amount until it goes away. TBH if your fish is eating and only flashing, not showing more severe signs of distress, you will probably exacerbate the issue if you remove the fish. That tank has ich and will have ich unless you allow it to run fallow for 6-8 weeks (I can't remember which). Obviously be sure the water conditions are good, but I run with ich in my system and have never had an outbreak using this method.
 
It also doesnt mean it came in on the tang, the tangs could have just exacerbated the problem. They tend to be magnets for ich. If you aren't going to remove them, you must feed as often as possible and feed high quality frozen foods and nori. As someone else said, do not raise the temp. that will only make it harder for them to breath and add stress. There are other mechanisms to aid in helping them manage it such as diatom filters, ozone generators, and UV sterilization. Again as someone else stated it sounds more like velvet so you may not have time on your side to implement those definitely worth looking into going forward. What are you currently feeding them and how often?

What would a good diatom filter to get? That seems interesting. The UV filter is $$
 
Before getting a new filter just to fight the ich, I'd try just doing weekly ~10-20% w/c and see if it helps.
 
Should I do a water change before starting the Ich Attack?
 
What would a good diatom filter to get? That seems interesting. The UV filter is $$
I don't know all that much about diatom filters just that they are able to filter out the free swimming stage of ich. I run a very over sized UV. The more over sized the better. Expensive but worth it.
 
Velvet has noticeable white spots as well, they're just a bit smaller and more numerous. It also progresses much faster. If you're noticing new and more spots in as few as a few days, it's velvet. Rare that it looks like a dusting on a fish, that's a very serious infestation at that point. Velvet is more common than ich in the hobby right now.
 
So I came home from work and there are only a few white spots on him. Lot less then last night. I do notice a few dark spots on his yellow body. Maybe damage? I’m going to treat with Kick Ich but I found a thread saying this may be an internal parasite . I should soak the food in PraziPro. Here is a read up and it kinda looks like that this guy was experiencing. Take a look if you have time. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brown-spots-splotches-on-tang.78332/

Or it’s spots from him transitioning to a blue tang from the yellow..
 
So I came home from work and there are only a few white spots on him. Lot less then last night. I do notice a few dark spots on his yellow body. Maybe damage? I’m going to treat with Kick Ich but I found a thread saying this may be an internal parasite . I should soak the food in PraziPro. Here is a read up and it kinda looks like that this guy was experiencing. Take a look if you have time. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brown-spots-splotches-on-tang.78332/

Or it’s spots from him transitioning to a blue tang from the yellow..

Internal parasites = white stringy poop. Not white spots.
 
Throw one of these in your tank and place it near the bottom. It comes with a white pleated 15-micron filter. Theronts(free swimming ich) are too big to pass through this filter. This should cut down on free swimming theronts. You don't need to mess with messy diatomaceous earth, though this filter will run DE with that same pleated cartridge if you wish. DE would be good to capture velvet.

https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-P...&qid=1531949644&sr=8-4&keywords=magnum+filter
 
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