Tangs

reef rambo

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3 years in hobby….220 gallon tank waterbox..
Have almost all the necessary equipment..
Parameters always in check…
So many corals no issues…
Currently stock fish purple,hippo,4 anthias,2 wwrasse,bangai,2 cromis all r 3 years old
But not able to adding any tangs…which r actually my favorite…lately in last years lost almost 10 of each tang u name it Ended up dieing….including copper butterfly ….no aggression…now u guys suit…what where which I m doing wrong..
N how to succeed
 
Tanks are like the plague carriers of the sea kingdom. Aside from being incredibly stupid and dying often to misadventure, they tend to succumb to disease a lot more than other types of fish. I have a single sailfin tang, and my efforts to add a naso tang sadly fared as well as yours.
 
3 years in hobby….220 gallon tank waterbox..
Have almost all the necessary equipment..
Parameters always in check…
So many corals no issues…
Currently stock fish purple,hippo,4 anthias,2 wwrasse,bangai,2 cromis all r 3 years old
But not able to adding any tangs…which r actually my favorite…lately in last years lost almost 10 of each tang u name it Ended up dieing….including copper butterfly ….no aggression…now u guys suit…what where which I m doing wrong..
N how to succeed
Are you positive you have no ich in the tank?
 
What happened when they died, any symptoms? Fish generally don‘t die for no reason. What did they do days weeks before dying.
 
What happened when they died, any symptoms? Fish generally don‘t die for no reason. What did they do days weeks before dying.
Mostly….I don’t see n e sign on them…just they don’t eat…at last 3 month ago when I lost my 8 fish in a week that time someone told me that it’s flukes so I treated with prazipro….but after that also I try to add butterflies,unicorn but they ended up dieing…just b 4 die they stop eating
 
How are you acclimating them, and foe how long?
Are you getting them from the very same source?
What if any signs are they showing prior to loss ?
 
mostly I buy form 3 of my lfs….store i tried for dr reef quarantine fish as well…all of them died…
Mostly I float the bag for hr or so…than take tem all out in buckets…check my salinity with the water they r in n add or remove water as needed from my display n than put them in…mostly in te ramp down time
 
mostly I buy form 3 of my lfs….store i tried for dr reef quarantine fish as well…all of them died…
Mostly I float the bag for hr or so…than take tem all out in buckets…check my salinity with the water they r in n add or remove water as needed from my display n than put them in…mostly in te ramp down time
Float for 20-30 minutes
Transfer fish and water into a clean bucket
Then . . . .
Measure the Ph, salinity and temperature of the bag water. If you can, make up some water in a container that has exactly the same measurements as the bag readings and move the fish right over, then you can add a cup of tank water to bucket every 15 mins 6 times (almost 1.5 hours)
Then check salinity in bucket and compare to tank. If no match or very close, add a cup of water every few mins until youve reached salinity and trap fish in same cup and pour off water and release into display. Release under LOW light before lights out. Fish in shipped bags produce carbon dioxide and ammonia. The carbon dioxide lowers the pH of the water in the bag, That in turn makes the ammonia non-toxic to the fish. When you acclimate them, if not done just right, you drive off the carbon dioxide faster than you are diluting the ammonia. That raises the pH of the water in the bag, and that in turn, makes the residual ammonia very toxic to the fish. Sometimes, the fish will die right in the bag
 
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What is current Ammonia- ph-nitrate-salinity-temperature ?
What test kit(s) are you using ?
 
I would use freshly mixed water that matches salinity to their bags... add them directly to that then drip as needed.

Tangs can poo/pee a lot and if one is shipped over night... you open the bag and add new water and pH increases which makes the ammonia more toxic in the bag.

Also if a LFS or such runs salinity lower... say lower than 2-3 points... you should bring them up slower... like a day+ depending how low. AKA need a QT/conditioning tank.

I guess it is also possible there is a parasite in your tank your resident fish are resistant to. I would suspect you would see fast breathing before the new fish perished though.
 
What is current Ammonia- ph-nitrate-salinity-temperature ?
What test kit(s) are you using ?
78 -digital titanium heater
Ammonia-0
Salinity-1.024
Hanna for ca,kh,ph,phos
Mg-salifert
Ca-nyos
N other api….
Just new addition is dieing…
Old one have no problem whatever I do.
 
Aside from being incredibly stupid
lol love this... so true...

Feeling Dumb Jim Carrey GIF
 
I would use freshly mixed water that matches salinity to their bags... add them directly to that then drip as needed.

Tangs can poo/pee a lot and if one is shipped over night... you open the bag and add new water and pH increases which makes the ammonia more toxic in the bag.

Also if a LFS or such runs salinity lower... say lower than 2-3 points... you should bring them up slower... like a day+ depending how low. AKA need a QT/conditioning tank.

I guess it is also possible there is a parasite in your tank your resident fish are resistant to. I would suspect you would see fast breathing before the new fish perished though.
Yes they start seating at bottom corner somewhere…..n no movement…just breathe may b faster never observed closely..than died
 

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