Tank crash

Gareth elliott · Oct 10, 2018

If contaminate is on the list of possibilities a poly filter, can pull out heavy metals and the like. And only a couple dollars if it is something else.

Alkalinity spikes can cause sps and some lps to go down hill pretty quick.

But never had a tank go milky because of one. But if the colonies were large enough maybe.

Icemam457 · Oct 10, 2018

What happened after you pulled your heater out

sureal00 · Oct 10, 2018

I have had two bacteria blooms in the past 6 years.First bloom didnt kill fishes or corals.Second eventually killed all my fish from lack of oxygen.What worked for me was buying a uv,changing carbon every day ,mechanical filtration also water changes and no lights for a couple days.My lfs said my high nutrients and light schedule cause the bloom

Ocean Lotion · Oct 10, 2018

I have had corals react badly to an alk of 12. No one used febreeze in the house?

ScooterV · Oct 10, 2018

Could this possibly be calcium precipitation?

MnFish1 · Oct 10, 2018

Icemam457 said:
Brand new finnex 800 watt titanium heater. And alk was around 9 before orp and alk spike

Wouldn't the Alk spike alone be enough to cause problems - necrosis - followed by toxin release, ammonia production and further damage? It seems like you already have the answer? Corals are funny though - I had a colony of acropora branching perhaps 6 inches I had to move the rock it was on about 3 inches from the spot it was in - the light etc was all the same. The next day 1/2 of the coral was white the other half was completely normal. So - It couldn't be a parameter thing or a light thing - I realized though that the 1/2 of the coral that died was almost directly under the bottom of a gyre pump - so the flow changed substantially. No other coral had a problem - and I broke off the dead piece and the remaining piece is fine. So its really hard to say.

Icemam457 · Oct 10, 2018

so i have replaced the carbon and put a big 12x12 poly filter in before my filter socks. i am going to add a 50 watt High output uv sterilizer, co2 scrubber on my protein skimmer as well as another chamber to my geo calcium reactor. i am also doing a triton test. thank you every one for there help .

Icemam457 · Oct 10, 2018

Oh and I pulled out the heater

Billldg · Oct 10, 2018

C

Icemam457 said:
Oh and I pulled out the heater

Curious to see what the Triton test says.

WVNed · Oct 10, 2018

When my heater failed it also energized the tank. I dont know it it was the power or the goo/metal or both that caused the crash. I did a down to the sand water change and removed the dead stuff and that stopped the crash. I lost about 1/2 of what was in the tank. That was 6 or 7 years ago now.

marlinmon · Oct 18, 2018

MnFish1 said:
Wouldn't the Alk spike alone be enough to cause problems - necrosis - followed by toxin release, ammonia production and further damage? It seems like you already have the answer? Corals are funny though - I had a colony of acropora branching perhaps 6 inches I had to move the rock it was on about 3 inches from the spot it was in - the light etc was all the same. The next day 1/2 of the coral was white the other half was completely normal. So - It couldn't be a parameter thing or a light thing - I realized though that the 1/2 of the coral that died was almost directly under the bottom of a gyre pump - so the flow changed substantially. No other coral had a problem - and I broke off the dead piece and the remaining piece is fine. So its really hard to say.

I had a alk spike once like Icemam described. A lot of acro lost color quickly...

Icemam457 · Nov 14, 2018

the Triton test came back good. I found the problem i had a dwarf moray in the pipe

Frtdrmrose7 · Nov 16, 2018

Icemam457 said:
Okay i will pull it out.

I have heard of heaters releasing a small amount of electrical current into the water from an internal short causing an issue that could snowball into this.