Tank Cycle Help

Alex's Nano Reef

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I started my cycle with seachem instead of DR.Tims because the LFS was out. im currently on day 9 of the cycle. im running the heater at 83 degrees to promote bacteria growth. today the ammonia has dropped it is very low if not gone by the time this gets posted. ( it was yellow but with the slightest hint of green in it) my nitrite is still very high same as my nitrates. now i have a bottle of Dr.Tims in the fridge and i would like to add some since i belive the blend of bacteria is superior to seachems. when can i add the bacteria to make sure it isnt killed by ammonia or anything else. also when should i do a water change when my nitrites are 0 and my nitrate is still high? aswell im going to assume i should do the water change before adding any fish.
 
Add 1ml of Dr Tim per 10 gallons 3 more days
Before assuming ammonia is stable, what test kits are you using?
 
Add 1ml of Dr Tim per 10 gallons 3 more days
Before assuming ammonia is stable, what test kits are you using?
im using the API test kits just for these 3 everything else in hanna checkers. so you think i should follow the rest of the recipe for success starting on day 9? should i add it over the next 3 days and i wont be killing the bacteria even with a small presence of ammonia?
 
im using the API test kits just for these 3 everything else in hanna checkers. so you think i should follow the rest of the recipe for success starting on day 9? should i add it over the next 3 days and i wont be killing the bacteria even with a small presence of ammonia?
Will be safe to do and if you get an opportunity, take a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API test kits and have them test your water to see what results they come up with.
I say this because api kits are notorious for false readings and have let many reefers down hence the low price of $22 for a master kit. You likely have false readings which are higher than you’re seeing
 
Will be safe to do and if you get an opportunity, take a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API test kits and have them test your water to see what results they come up with.
I say this because api kits are notorious for false readings and have let many reefers down hence the low price of $22 for a master kit. You likely have false readings which are higher than you’re seeing
will get a spin test done tomorrow. here are two previous tests first one was to make sure my water was mixed properly and second one was on day 4 of the cycle. test 1 1/10/22 PH 7.8 ammonia 0 nitrite .1 nitrate 0 salinity 1.025 test 2 1/13/22 PH 7.7 ammonia 3.6 nitrite .5 nitrate 0 salinity 1.025. ive been testing every day since the 10th w the API kits I have used them before and i understand they aren't very reliable but they do work more in the sense of an indicator.
 
Will be safe to do and if you get an opportunity, take a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API test kits and have them test your water to see what results they come up with.
I say this because api kits are notorious for false readings and have let many reefers down hence the low price of $22 for a master kit. You likely have false readings which are higher than you’re seeing
I second this - after using API kits for almost 30 years with freshwater and HATING them (didn't know any better, lol), I'm looking at Hanna and Salifert going forward.
 
I second this - after using API kits for almost 30 years with freshwater and HATING them (didn't know any better, lol), I'm looking at Hanna and Salifert going forward.
i only use API for the cycle ammonia nitrite and nitrate. i have the rest in hanna checkers they are amazing.
 
i only use API for the cycle ammonia nitrite and nitrate. i have the rest in hanna checkers they are amazing.
Which Hanna checkers do you have? I'm thinking of switching over to them over time for certain things (just since they're over $50 a pop). API would be fine for getting through cycle in my opinion, I will just never use them long term again because I can't ever differentiate between the colors, lol. Also have run into the false 0.25 ammonia readings on fully cycled tanks, which is just annoying.
 
Which Hanna checkers do you have? I'm thinking of switching over to them over time for certain things (just since they're over $50 a pop). API would be fine for getting through cycle in my opinion, I will just never use them long term again because I can't ever differentiate between the colors, lol. Also have run into the false 0.25 ammonia readings on fully cycled tanks, which is just annoying.
for the Hanna checkers i have the Ph,Salinity,Low range Phos,calcium,alkalinity. im sure im missing one or two. but they are significantly easy to calibrate.
 
Reading this and regretting my decisions to buy API tests. May have to compare some other tests now.
Don't worry about API too much to start - it's not like they're useless, more like difficult to read clearly. Some of them are easier than others. The ammonia is one that I dislike the most, but you don't need that for much after tank is cycled. ;)
 
Don't worry about API too much to start - it's not like they're useless, more like difficult to read clearly. Some of them are easier than others. The ammonia is one that I dislike the most, but you don't need that for much after tank is cycled. ;)
Cool. Thanks for the heads up!
 
Reading this and regretting my decisions to buy API tests. May have to compare some other tests now.
If you do try others, many people like Salifert, Red Sea, and of course the fancy Hanna checkers. Some like different brands for each test, lol. But my dad ran a successfull sw tank for years using API. (Fish only though).
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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