tank cycleing

[futurefishguy]

Hello!

I just bought my 40 gallon tank, now what? I am going to be buying live sand and rocks soon, but i need to know what else i have to get to even think about beginning the cycling process. I know i need salt, and a filter. Do i need anything like a protein skimmer, water heads, or wave makers when cycling?Also, while cycling do i need to have my lights turned on? I read online that lights aren't necessary when cycling. Is this true?

 

[Saltgator]

Cycling can be a pain but needed. Yes, a filter, skimmer, and some type of water movement maker is prefered. Once the salt, rocks, and sand are within the system, cycling will begin. Cycling can take 4-6 weeks. Lights are not needed during this time as they might or in most case will just cause a bloom in algea.

Questions:
Live rock or dry base rock?
Reef or FOWLR (fish only with live rock) system?

 

[btkrausen]

Personally, I'd setup the tank like you would have it when running it after the cycle. I'd definitely put powerheads in there for water movement.

Once you get the hardware side setup, mix water in another tank or tub with salt, and put in the system. Then put in your live rock and sand, which should start your cycle. Keep in mind that a cycle usually lasts 4-6 weeks if doing it the traditional way. You could try something like Seachem Stability which would accelerate it.

 

[futurefishguy]

Thanks! Is it true that if i put raw shrimp, like you would find at the publix fish department, that it speeds up the process? where can i get Seachem Stability?

 

[RonMidtownStomp]

The process is only the progression and build up of beneficial bacteria that aide in the conversation of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. The raw shrimp would only rot in the water and create ammonia which would then feed the bacteria. It's really up to you whether you want a rotting dead shrimp in your tank with nothing to eat it. There should be enough dead matter on live rock to feed the bacteria, but you won't have as much of the bacteria at first as you will once the system is established. Basic test kits will show you the cycle by testing for the chemicals above.

Don't let anyone tell you that nitrate is OK. You want very low nitrates to have a healthy reef tank. I was given bad advice by a fish store that 40ppm nitrates were acceptable. I killed some good livestock with that bad advice. A healthy reef tank will consume the nitrates as well. Once you get to no ammonia and no nitrites and it's been at least 3 weeks you can add a clean up crew or first fish.

 

[beaslbob]

I would setup the tank with macro algaes in there right from the start. Then do whatever else.

Macro algaes are a form of algae that (kinda) look like plants. They will balance out and stabilize tank operation. for instance they directly consume any ammonia the bacteria miss to ammonia spikes can be eliminated.


just my .02

 

[Raggamuffin]

My advice, set it up right from the get go with everything you need, fill the tank with water and mix salt in the tank. next day after your temp and salinity is right add your rock and sand. let it just sit and run touch nothing. let your ammonia hit 1.0 then do water changes to keep it to 0.75 or less, after a couple weeks it will drop all by itself. the next very important step is DO NOTHING! nitrites will go up, nitrites will go down, nitrates will go up add a macro and start a light cycle, and when nitrates are stable add a small clean up crew. Depending on your rock this could take 6+ weeks but the bacteria in your tank should be strong as can be, once nitrates hit the 25 mark you are ok for hardy fish, at 10 you can start corals. the Macro you added will help bring down all 3 nasties mentions (ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates) as well as help keep Phos down so your normal bloom stage will be less than normal.