in my opinion it breaks down to this
the mode of cycling selected is variable from tank to tank
different breakdown rates of the shrimp, and resulting ammonia across tanks. as you can see its not potent ammonia, either the breakdown is going to take longer to show or its likely just not enough rot. I wouldnt use this method
you are getting ammonia + myriad sinkable wastes from the rotting shrimp thats of no benefit to your cycle
its from 2004
use dr tims and surfactant free cleaning ammonia (2014)
your shrimp method will work, its forever a possibility for aquarium cycling fw and sw
but the point of that was to get ammonia not a bunch rotting compounds and decay, primarily just ammonia and at a level we can see an adjustment to zero to indicate some forward in the cycle.
for your method, you may wait indefinitely for a register of free ammonia why not take out the shrimp and do a 3 week cycle that is guaranteed to work.
i myself will never own an ammonia test kit, any other test kit except a thermometer and swingarm for the salt, and i wont use dr tims or cleaning ammonia or shrimp
the reason is i use all cured live rock from a pet store, they did the cycle for me. i do zero cycle tanks and always have.
your tank is mostly uncycled material so you can just add more live rock and make your bioload relative to the amount known ready to process it.
in other words, if you dont want to do retail bottle bac and cleaning ammonia then buy a lot more live rock and just let the base catch up in time. dont exceed the nitrifying abilities of the live rock, and thats a lot, and you'll be fine
1. dr tims and real ammonia that gives readings instantly not a bunch of decay 90% unhelpful to the cycle algae food
2. no targeted ammonia boosing, a little more live rock, and some light bioloading (get to reefing add some coral) and time
