Ineedhelp
Active Member
I have a 90 gallon drilled tank and it keeps fluctuating levels and then lets out this awful gurgle. the top of the PVC pipe is drilled with a tube inside of it sticking out. ... What is causing this?
Tank drain gurgling
- Thread starter Ineedhelp
- Start date
- Tagged users None
LostInTheDark
Active Member
Make sure the tube is free from salt or calcium buildup. They get clogged over time. If it is clear you have to play with the length of the tube to find the sweet spot. Cut an extra long one and slowly lower it until the gurgling stops.I have a rubber band around mine so it doesn't fall in.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Sounds like you are using a Durso drain? If so, I agree with @LostInTheDark that you have an issue with the air feed into your drain if it had previously been working and you haven't changed water flow. His advice is right on the mark.
redfishbluefish
Stay Positive, Stay Productive
Staff member
Super Moderator
Reef Squad
Partner Member 2024
Excellence Award
Article Contributor
NJRC Member
Hospitality Award
Definitely need a picture of the drain pipe. For some reason you are temporarily starting a siphon, and then it breaks siphon, and then starts all over again.
Ineedhelp
Active Member
MaiReef
Valuable Member
I think a variance on the Stockman with a 1-1/4" slip coupling at the base and using a 1/4" pipe to the top and using silcone tape instead of a washer to hold the 1-1/2" coupling over the holes in the pipe works great. No sound and consistent height.
mcarroll
10K Club member
Something else to consider is that the noisy drain condition is usually caused in the first place by too much flow. A gravity drain at "normal" flow rates should be virtually silent.
You might consider measuring your flow rate at the return or at the drain to see what you're getting right now.
If you can't measure for some reason, estimating is also a pretty good option....you just need to know:
(And this is an actual flow rate, not a pump or drain rating.)
For a 90 gallon tank, that means you want between 180 GPH and 360 GPH to make sure the job is getting done.
More flow than that range is commonly a noise problem, sometimes a bubble problem too. A smaller pump can sometimes even be used, so by using a bigger pump the return also uses too much power per GPH. A bigger pump not only uses more power per GPH, but the typically cost more up front than a smaller pump too. Lots of reasons to use a "right sized" pump.
People sometimes go to great lengths in modifying their drains and putting up with weird performance issues just to milk out another 100 GPH of flow they don't even need in 19 out of 20 cases.
For an example, let's say you have a pretty standard 90 Gallon tank with a straight return up from the sump.
We'll assume 3/4" PVC, 4' of head pressure, 5' of plumbing, 1 90º elblow, 360 GPH of flow and one outlet.
For comparison, here's an upgrade to 1" plumbing:
Just some thoughts.
You might consider measuring your flow rate at the return or at the drain to see what you're getting right now.
If you can't measure for some reason, estimating is also a pretty good option....you just need to know:
- the height the water needs to be pumped
- the total length of plumbing
- diameter of plumbing
- list of fittings used
- a calculator like this: http://www.freecalc.com/fric.htm
- Post all the info here if you want!
(And this is an actual flow rate, not a pump or drain rating.)
For a 90 gallon tank, that means you want between 180 GPH and 360 GPH to make sure the job is getting done.
More flow than that range is commonly a noise problem, sometimes a bubble problem too. A smaller pump can sometimes even be used, so by using a bigger pump the return also uses too much power per GPH. A bigger pump not only uses more power per GPH, but the typically cost more up front than a smaller pump too. Lots of reasons to use a "right sized" pump.
People sometimes go to great lengths in modifying their drains and putting up with weird performance issues just to milk out another 100 GPH of flow they don't even need in 19 out of 20 cases.
For an example, let's say you have a pretty standard 90 Gallon tank with a straight return up from the sump.
We'll assume 3/4" PVC, 4' of head pressure, 5' of plumbing, 1 90º elblow, 360 GPH of flow and one outlet.
Liquid Friction Pressure Loss
Pressure Loss (psi): 0.3 Head Loss (ft): 0.7
Line Number:
Date: 12/29/2016
Nominal Pipe Size: 0.75
Pipe Schedule: SCH 40
Flow Rate (gpm): 6
Viscosity (cP): 1
Specific Gravity (water=1): 1.025
Temperature (F): 79
Pipe Roughness (ft): 0.000016
Actual Pipe ID (in.): 0.824
Fluid Velocity (ft/sec): 3.61
Reynolds Number: 23604
Flow Region: Turbulent
Friction Factor: 0.025
Overall K: 3.35
Piping Length (ft): 5
Short Radius Elbows: 1
Pipe Exit : 1
Pressure Loss (psi): 0.3 Head Loss (ft): 0.7
Line Number:
Date: 12/29/2016
Nominal Pipe Size: 0.75
Pipe Schedule: SCH 40
Flow Rate (gpm): 6
Viscosity (cP): 1
Specific Gravity (water=1): 1.025
Temperature (F): 79
Pipe Roughness (ft): 0.000016
Actual Pipe ID (in.): 0.824
Fluid Velocity (ft/sec): 3.61
Reynolds Number: 23604
Flow Region: Turbulent
Friction Factor: 0.025
Overall K: 3.35
Piping Length (ft): 5
Short Radius Elbows: 1
Pipe Exit : 1
For comparison, here's an upgrade to 1" plumbing:
Liquid Friction Pressure Loss
Pressure Loss (psi): 0.1 Head Loss (ft): 0.2
Line Number:
Date: 12/29/2016
Nominal Pipe Size: 1
Pipe Schedule: SCH 40
Flow Rate (gpm): 6
Viscosity (cP): 1
Specific Gravity (water=1): 1.025
Temperature (F): 79
Pipe Roughness (ft): 0.000016
Actual Pipe ID (in.): 1.049
Fluid Velocity (ft/sec): 2.23
Reynolds Number: 18541
Flow Region: Turbulent
Friction Factor: 0.027
Overall K: 2.99
Piping Length (ft): 5
Short Radius Elbows: 1
Pipe Exit : 1
Pressure Loss (psi): 0.1 Head Loss (ft): 0.2
Line Number:
Date: 12/29/2016
Nominal Pipe Size: 1
Pipe Schedule: SCH 40
Flow Rate (gpm): 6
Viscosity (cP): 1
Specific Gravity (water=1): 1.025
Temperature (F): 79
Pipe Roughness (ft): 0.000016
Actual Pipe ID (in.): 1.049
Fluid Velocity (ft/sec): 2.23
Reynolds Number: 18541
Flow Region: Turbulent
Friction Factor: 0.027
Overall K: 2.99
Piping Length (ft): 5
Short Radius Elbows: 1
Pipe Exit : 1
MAG
Now to consider your range of pump options, we'll look at Danner's Mag pumps since they are built like tanks and they have a wide range of models.
180-360 GPH is our target, and with friction-losses we have about 6' of head pressure.
On the low end, a Mag 3 would deliver 180 GPH at 6'.
On the high end, a Mag 7 would deliver 400 GPH at 6'.
That's a range in price from $70 - $90 and a range in power usage from 37 watts to 60 watts.
Coincidentally, at this head pressure, the Mag 3 and Mag 5 are almost identical.
SICCE
Same example with Sicce's Syncra and Syncra Pro pumps. I don't think they're as strong as Mag's, but they're even more quiet. Sicce says the Pro is the most quiet – they also seem to use less power per watt.
The Syncra 2.0 or Syncra Pro 2200 (even more quiet) should deliver around 180 GPH on the low end.
Either the Syncra 3.0 or 3.5 or Syncra Pro 3000 should deliver around 360 GPH on the high end.
That gives you a range of about $90-$140 and 35 watts to 70 watts.
Now to consider your range of pump options, we'll look at Danner's Mag pumps since they are built like tanks and they have a wide range of models.
180-360 GPH is our target, and with friction-losses we have about 6' of head pressure.
On the low end, a Mag 3 would deliver 180 GPH at 6'.
On the high end, a Mag 7 would deliver 400 GPH at 6'.
That's a range in price from $70 - $90 and a range in power usage from 37 watts to 60 watts.
Coincidentally, at this head pressure, the Mag 3 and Mag 5 are almost identical.
SICCE
Same example with Sicce's Syncra and Syncra Pro pumps. I don't think they're as strong as Mag's, but they're even more quiet. Sicce says the Pro is the most quiet – they also seem to use less power per watt.
The Syncra 2.0 or Syncra Pro 2200 (even more quiet) should deliver around 180 GPH on the low end.
Either the Syncra 3.0 or 3.5 or Syncra Pro 3000 should deliver around 360 GPH on the high end.
That gives you a range of about $90-$140 and 35 watts to 70 watts.
Just some thoughts.
LostInTheDark
Active Member
I've been using the tube in the drain method since the '70s. I know there have been a lot of different methods and drain styles developed, over the last few years especially, but I find this the simplest and easiest to setup and maintain.
