Tank going downhill. Algae only?

[COCOBBALL]

tank info:
6.5 months old
40 gallon with 20g sump
Light load (2 small clown,1 lawnmower guppy,1 small fish)
Small frag all variety
Parameters 1.025 salinity
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0
Calcium 300


My problems started i went on vacation and set an auto feeder up. I came home and algae had started to take over.

I went into immediate action tested water and began cleaning algae and sump. Blowing off with turkey baster and changing filter pads every other day.

I started to notice all of my turbo snails stopped moving around tank and die .

All of my small zoanthids frag died and disappeared. And my largest zooanthid frag completely closed all polyps and hasn't opened in a week.

All of my platygyra have started to wither away.

Green star polyp used to fill the frag and its shrunk to a few strands.

Hammer and frogspawn full retraction.


I feel like the algae is under control but my coral dont seem happy.

Could this all be caused by the algae breakout or something else going on here.

Thanks
Cory

 

[jtl]

Your problems are the result of something else going on. You need to check all of your parameters, but fyi calcium is too low and your PO4 and NO3 are likely not zero. Over feeding is maybe the root cause but without knowing more no one can be certain.

 

[Scotty Buttons]

The algae likely consumed all your nitrates and phosphates, now your coral are starving. Id up those numbers and you should start seeing some improvement.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Do an immediate water change and Focus on nitrate and phosphate readings. Suspect may be autofeeder dispersing too much each feed taking down water quality. What filter are you running and with what components (Skimmer, etc)
What also is salinity? Perhaps take a water sample to your Trusted LFS and have them test to compare with your readings

 

[COCOBBALL]

Do an immediate water change and Focus on nitrate and phosphate readings. Suspect may be autofeeder dispersing too much each feed taking down water quality. What filter are you running and with what components (Skimmer, etc)
What also is salinity? Perhaps take a water sample to your Trusted LFS and have them test to compare with your readings

I did a 15gallon water change yesterday. I have no problem doing more if you think it will help.

I tested nitrate and got a reading of 5ppm

The phosphate showed at 0.

Forgot to add i purchased a new cleaning crew from reefcleaners that should arrive wednesday.

I also added chemi-pure blue yesterday along with a box of marine pure balls in sump.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I did a 15gallon water change yesterday. I have no problem doing more if you think it will help.

I tested nitrate and got a reading of 5ppm

The phosphate showed at 0.

Forgot to add i purchased a new cleaning crew from reefcleaners that should arrive wednesday.

I also added chemi-pure blue yesterday along with a box of marine pure balls in sump.

Not saying your kit is not accurate but I have Little faith in API Test kits. Don't do another water change but rather, take a water sample to a trusted pet store and have them test also to compare readings and see where you are at.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

It likey wasn’t a “nutrient spike “ that did the damage. Ammona spike from the rotting food that is now no3. And the turbos are NASTY when they die Esp in the tank.
I agree. It’s very likely something else that did the snails in.

 

[RMS18]

I may have missed it, but what is your alk reading? Your corals look starved and depending on your alk level low nutrients can be a bad combination.

 

[COCOBBALL]

Wanted to update because Im still working on finding the problem. I took in a sample to my lfs and they were swamped and I couldnt wait for a test.

I was talking with another customer who suggested my skimmer was to small.

So i did the only logical thing and upgraded my tank to a 125g and bought a 200g skimmer.


Used new rodi water and all existing rocks, sand, marine pure, etc.

I acclimated all my corals and fish and swapped over everything over already.

Still look unhappy and mostly closed. Going to give a couple days to break in and evaluate .

 

[jtl]

Seriously? That is a pretty big adjustment in a very short period of time. I would expect it will be awhile before the corals adjust. Since you purchase new equipment I hope you sprung for better test kits.

 

[Andrewalex11]

From experience with using Auto-Feeders on client tanks they usually lead to an absolutely absurd NO3 and PO4 issue, and it is totally possible that the algae in your tank is consuming it to the point that the API test kits (which are very broad in reading range) read 0ppm.

Options to fix:

(1) 5-10% water changes with sand siphon every 3 days or so until you hit 50%-70% total volume changed.
(2) Alumina Oxide better known as PhosGuard
(3) Increase flow
(4) If you can lower the White, Red, and Green output on your lighting that would help from new algae from growing
(5) I highly recommend Poly-Filter pads be used for removing water impurities these are fairly inexpensive
(6) Extremely light feeding

The more of these you do the better results you will have killing off your algae issue.

 

[COCOBBALL]

Seriously? That is a pretty big adjustment in a very short period of time. I would expect it will be awhile before the corals adjust. Since you purchase new equipment I hope you sprung for better test kits.

Yes . I always planned to upgrade to a bigger tank i could put tangs in so went ahead and did it.

I probably should of asked if that was a good idea im guessing now. Anything i should be doing while the tank is adjusting?

 

[jtl]

I don't think it was a bad idea if you wanted a bigger tank. Just be patient and regularly check your params with good test kits. Personally I like Salifert for Ca and MG, Red Sea for NO3, Hanna for PO4 and API is ok for Alk.

 

[lapin]

Everything should get back to normal in a few weeks once the new tank cycles. opps You forgot more rock. Oh its in a brute container cycling. Ok kewl. You washed out all the crud out of the sand and rocks, great. You chunked the auto feeder, good. Only live and frozen from now on. Its lower in carbs and fat. N and P
Let us know how things go and if the problem is gone or comes back.
I forgot to say you could toss in some turbo 900 bacteria in a bottle for good measure.

 

[COCOBBALL]

Everything should get back to normal in a few weeks once the new tank cycles. opps You forgot more rock. Oh its in a brute container cycling. Ok kewl. You washed out all the crud out of the sand and rocks, great. You chunked the auto feeder, good. Only live and frozen from now on. Its lower in carbs and fat. N and P
Let us know how things go and if the problem is gone or comes back.
I forgot to say you could toss in some turbo 900 bacteria in a bottle for good measure.

I have a big bottle of bacteria coming tomorrow thanks i didnt think of that.

I made some diy liverock months ago about another 45 days from usable.

Do you think my newly added marine pure will substitute for the rocks for awhile? I have about 60 lbs of carib sea liferock from my smaller tank. Also i added 4 bags of marine alive sand(was barebottom in previous tank)

Im going focus on finding better test kits atm.

Do i need to wait to add more livestock for a full cycle again? All the rock i added was cycled for over 6 months.

 

[COCOBBALL]

I was really hoping my hammer would open with all the new water but luck. Frogspawn is opening more.

 

[Dom]

I don't feel API test kits deserve the reputation they carry. I fully agree that you can't rely on them when it comes to problem solving, but they are fine for monitoring.

I have API, but I back them up with a complete set of Red Sea test kits. I use the API for weekly testing as they are quick and easy to use. But if they show something that concerns me, I'll back the API test up with the same test using Red Sea.

It is difficult to regulate feeding with auto feeders. Additionally, auto feeders use dry food and I find that dry food will elevate phosphates.

As has been previously mentioned, your phosphate and nitrate numbers are good, probably because the algae as consumed those nutrients... and that's bad news for corals.

How long were you using the auto feeder?

 

[COCOBBALL]

I don't feel API test kits deserve the reputation they carry. I fully agree that you can't rely on them when it comes to problem solving, but they are fine for monitoring.

I have API, but I back them up with a complete set of Red Sea test kits. I use the API for weekly testing as they are quick and easy to use. But if they show something that concerns me, I'll back the API test up with the same test using Red Sea.

It is difficult to regulate feeding with auto feeders. Additionally, auto feeders use dry food and I find that dry food will elevate phosphates.

As has been previously mentioned, your phosphate and nitrate numbers are good, probably because the algae as consumed those nutrients... and that's bad news for corals.

How long were you using the auto feeder?

It was for 7 days while on vacation.

Ive never used dry food before that and never will again.

Now that they are sitting in 150g of new water should i be feeding my coral?

Looks like im starting to lose my green star polyps

 

[Dom]

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