Tank parameters, Algae, Wilting Palys ...Advice please!

Jubbilee555

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I'm about 6 weeks in from taking my coworkers 75gal reef tank with a 30 gal fuge. 2 x 156w black box led lighting. I've been using RO/DI water for the past 4 weeks. Doing 20 gal water changes every 5-7 days. Feeding 1 cube mysis or brine shrimp EOD with small pinch of flakes in between and a strip of seaweed daily. Battling cyano, green hair and dinos since the beginning (previous owner was not looking after the tank very well).

I'm concerned now because my Palys were flourishing and now they're wilting. Everything else is looking pretty good and healthy. My recent parameters are (please note: there has been some changes):

Salinity 1.026
pH 8.2-8.4
KH 7
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0 (was 0.25 at reading last week)
Ammonia 0.25 (was at 0 last week)
Phosphate 0.25 (same as from the beginning)
Calcium 520 (was 460 last week)

Stock list: 1 hippo tang, 1 yellow tang, 1 clown fish, 1 camel shrimp, 2 cleaner shrimp, 10-15 snails, 10 hermit crabs, Palys and zoas, Blastos, Candycane coral, Lobo coral, Leather coral, Mushrooms, Feather dusters, Rock anemones, Kenya tree

Should I be worried? Any recommendations for any of this? I've read that algae can cause ammonia issues but I don't know how true that is. I don't feel like I'm over feeding but maybe I am? Why is my calcium so high? Algae, algae and more algae! Ahhhhh! Thank you for ANY advice :)
 
GHA and cyano r signs of high nutrient in water, should reduce feeding (do seaweed weekly instead of daily). surprised the yellow tang is not eating up the GHA. how many hours r u leaving the light on? Should also siphon as much cyano as u can during water change.
 
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Your water changes could be causing calcium rises if your not dosing if the calcium is higher in the new saltwater then your tank it will cause a spike.
Are you dosing the big 3?
Iv read a few time that Palys and Zoas don't like po4 so I would run some phosphate remover like AF phosphate minus.
Do you know how old the Rocks are because after some time rocks will begin to leach phosphates back into your system causing endless issues.
You could replace the Rock and start over with all new water sand and rock that's what I would have done from the start and it's not too late get 2nd tank and set it up like a hospital tank and di water changes every other day and feed light if at all.
While the tank is empty I'd start over again with new sand new rock and media I'd get AF bio fil for media and start with dry rock and agra alive sand and bio s or something similar with bacteria sources to jump start the cycle give it a day and you can start to very very slowly add livestock back in I would add the hardy corals back first and cuc then hardy fish LPs or sps last and hippo tang needs a new home unfortunately your tank is too small for that fish
 
GHA and cyano r signs of high nutrient in water, should reduce feeding (do seaweed weekly instead of daily). surprised the yellow tang is not eating up the GHA. how many hours r u leaving the light on? Should also siphon as much cyano as u can during water change.

Daylights are on from 9am to 9pm with actinics on one hour before and after, then complete darkness overnight. I see the yellow tang picking occasionally. In your opinion, other than the seaweed, am I overfeeding for my current stock?
 
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Your water changes could be causing calcium rises if your not dosing if the calcium is higher in the new saltwater then your tank it will cause a spike.
Are you dosing the big 3?
Iv read a few time that Palys and Zoas don't like po4 so I would run some phosphate remover like AF phosphate minus.
Do you know how old the Rocks are because after some time rocks will begin to leach phosphates back into your system causing endless issues.
You could replace the Rock and start over with all new water sand and rock that's what I would have done from the start and it's not too late get 2nd tank and set it up like a hospital tank and di water changes every other day and feed light if at all.
While the tank is empty I'd start over again with new sand new rock and media I'd get AF bio fil for media and start with dry rock and agra alive sand and bio s or something similar with bacteria sources to jump start the cycle give it a day and you can start to very very slowly add livestock back in I would add the hardy corals back first and cuc then hardy fish LPs or sps last and hippo tang needs a new home unfortunately your tank is too small for that fish

No, I am not dosing. TBH I hadn't even heard of that term until I looked it up just now. The rocks are about 5 years old, the sand is new as of 6 weeks ago. When the palys were at the previous owner's house they were absolutely pathetic. Even after 1 week at our place with consistent water changes and more recently with the ro/di water, they started to thrive. After 3 weeks they were HUGE and gorgeous. I'm worried that either the ammonia or high calcium might be the problem? We've had the low Phos since day one after the tank move and like I said they were doing exceptionally well but now they're looking sad :( I know it won't be an easy or quick fix if I keep battling it but starting another tank etc isn't an option right now. I totally agree about the hippo btw - all the livestock I have was what the previous owner (my coworker) had. She said she tried to rehome the hippo but no one will take him because he looks absolutely horrible (while he eats well, active etc he has hole in head and he is super raggedy looking). Thank you for all of your input - any other thoughts would be great!
 
Try cutting your light schedule back some, If your running 10 hours of peak lighting that could be causing some algae issues..

Make sure your RO/DI System is sufficient for your source water and well maintained, a typical 4 stage RO/DI system may not effectively remove all contaminates.. check with your city/county and see what’s in your water then match a RO system for your needs..

Moving a old tank can sometimes be similar to starting up a new tank and going through the Dino’s, cyano and hair algae phase is sometimes part of the process.. it should pass in time.
 
Try cutting your light schedule back some, If your running 10 hours of peak lighting that could be causing some algae issues..

Make sure your RO/DI System is sufficient for your source water and well maintained, a typical 4 stage RO/DI system may not effectively remove all contaminates.. check with your city/county and see what’s in your water then match a RO system for your needs..

Moving a old tank can sometimes be similar to starting up a new tank and going through the Dino’s, cyano and hair algae phase is sometimes part of the process.. it should pass in time.

Thank you i will check that. But what about the little bit of ammonia and high calcium? Should i be worried about that?
 
Daylights are on from 9am to 9pm with actinics on one hour before and after, then complete darkness overnight. I see the yellow tang picking occasionally. In your opinion, other than the seaweed, am I overfeeding for my current stock?
yes & no for ur current stock but it would appear u r trying to fix a neglected tank that u have inherited with nutrient issues from poor husbandry. Try feeding once/day with dry pellets (no flakes) and stop feeding frozen food for now as frozen (esp mysis) and flakes can add more phosphate to ur tank (cyano lives on phosphate). It was a good move to replace the sand, IMO I would not try replacing the rocks w new one or else u will have to go thru a mini cycle to cure the rocks and given the poor condition of livestock, this may be too stressful. At this time, I'd try to get the tank as stable as possible without doing something too drastic. The rocks r probably full of detritus/phosphate from previous owner. During each water change, blow the rocks w a small power head to clean them and also siphon the cyano out. After removing as much cyano as possible, try lights out for 24-48 hrs, this will kill the GHA and cyano. I have done this in my tank w no ill effect on corals (mix soft & sps). Corals will be fine since u have mostly soft corals. After lights out, try scheduling lights at 4-6 hrs/day. IMHO ur current lighting schedule is too long while trying to fix GHA and cyano issues. Keep doing water changes and feed dry food until u no longer see GHA and cyano. Keep in mind cyano & GHA needs light and nutrient to grow.
 
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Thank you i will check that. But what about the little bit of ammonia and high calcium? Should i be worried about that?

The ammonia can be a problem it’s probably from a mini cycle caused by the tank move I would keep a eye on it and keep up with your water changes it should drop to 0 when your tank stabilizes.. I would not worry about calcium it’s not causing any of your current issues..

Make sure you are rinsing you frozen mysis or brine shrimp well before introducing it into tank they can be full of phosphates (algae fuel).. I just use a small screen strainer and run tap water over mine until it’s completely melted and well rinsed.
 

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