Tank ready for a pom pom crab?

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My tank is in the uglies but has 2 healthy fish and a small CUC, are pom pom crabs pom poms sensitive or would the water be fine? (no param swings stable 8.05-8.1 PH)
 
My tank is in the uglies but has 2 healthy fish and a small CUC, are pom pom crabs pom poms sensitive or would the water be fine? (no param swings stable 8.05-8.1 PH)
How long has the tank been running? Inverts are typically sensitive to salinity swings and ammonia. Pom Pom Crabs are no exception to that.
 
dont allow the uglies, clean them out vs follow the common path of sitting back for months. now the tank will be perfect for any inhabitants suited to the tank size and feed/care regimen. uglies are an optional phase.
 
Not a factor whether they are sensitive, but assure tank is in good state of health with any addition and Uglies generally suggest cycle is completing but there is room for fluctuations in parameters- Assure they are stable.
Pom Poms are forgiving and use the poms (anemones) as a safety tool persay.
Simple siphoning will change appearance of diatoms and diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the kibosh on the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass. For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
 
How long has the tank been running? Inverts are typically sensitive to salinity swings and ammonia. Pom Pom Crabs are no exception to that.
Not a factor whether they are sensitive, but assure tank is in good state of health with any addition and Uglies generally suggest cycle is completing but there is room for fluctuations in parameters- Assure they are stable.
Pom Poms are forgiving and use the poms (anemones) as a safety tool persay.
Simple siphoning will change appearance of diatoms and diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the kibosh on the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass. For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
already have a few hermits, Ceriths on the way, salinity stable, PH stable, tank fully cycled, rodi is 0 TDS with 4 tds meters at points in the loop, Silicates are likely from the Dry rock, I need to get a gravel vaccum but do weekly 25% changes, 15 gallon so no skimmer room, glass is cleaned.

sorry for the ramble
 
dont allow the uglies, clean them out vs follow the common path of sitting back for months. now the tank will be perfect for any inhabitants suited to the tank size and feed/care regimen. uglies are an optional phase.
meh, with dry rock its impossible to stop them fully (the phase I mean). I do clean and ensure params etc though, I understand they are not very pretty, but beyond making sure params are good, tank is cleaned and WCed well, and that there is a healhy CUC theres not too much that can be done
 
there's personal resolve that can be done, and any tank pic shows the degree of that in motion. don't transmit the uglies as a helpless time in reefing, your opening post seemed to wonder if it was going to cause problems so that means step up the resolve. as soon as excuses overtake the will to maintain the tank: welcome dinos. We have lots of threads where disallowance of the uglies works great, day 1 onward.

the #1 cause of dinos in new tanks isn't a param, its a mindset.

example: I can't clean my rocks externally because they're linked in a glued arch, or stacked ten rocks deep (necessitating ongoing N and P adjustments as a partial attempt to slow down the uglies phase)

the opposite mindset would be: anticipates uglies in all dry rock starts, created a modular accessible rock scape planned for easy external removal, never alters N and P outside of what corals want. invasions never control N and P ratios, physical action controls all invasions in reefing and I do have the power to keep a clean tank any time its willed.


those are two very, very opposing mindsets. one catches dinos and the other one doesn't. scan the 400 page dinos control thread see which mindset lead up to posting for invasion help
 
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Crustaceans have very simple immune system, I would add them in the stable tank without diatoms, dinos, smelly water, for a better chances of survival.
 
there's personal resolve that can be done, and any tank pic shows the degree of that in motion. don't transmit the uglies as a helpless time in reefing, your opening post seemed to wonder if it was going to cause problems so that means step up the resolve. as soon as excuses overtake the will to maintain the tank: welcome dinos. We have lots of threads where disallowance of the uglies works great, day 1 onward.

the #1 cause of dinos in new tanks isn't a param, its a mindset.

example: I can't clean my rocks externally because they're linked in a glued arch, or stacked ten rocks deep (necessitating ongoing N and P adjustments as a partial attempt to slow down the uglies phase)

the opposite mindset would be: anticipates uglies in all dry rock starts, created a modular accessible rock scape planned for easy external removal, never alters N and P outside of what corals want. invasions never control N and P ratios, physical action controls all invasions in reefing and I do have the power to keep a clean tank any time its willed.


those are two very, very opposing mindsets. one catches dinos and the other one doesn't. scan the 400 page dinos control thread see which mindset lead up to posting for invasion help
the thing for me is that as long as my params are stable and my fish and animals are healthy im not really too concerned, the dinos are already growing back less and less each cleaning and change, and my params are stable, im okay with letting this run its course.
 
Keep in mind the the Pom Pom crab is holding two bonsai-versions of anemones. The crab limits the amount of food that they receive in order to keep them tiny. Despite them seeming like just a cool part of the crab, they are very much alive and need stability to thrive. If they die, the crab may die too.

Another thing to keep in mind is that these guys LOVE to hide. I have had mine for well over two months, and I’ve seen it a total of three times so far. And it’s not that I don’t look at my tank enough because I watch it like it’s a TV. Some of them truly do prefer to stay hidden in the shadows catching drifting food from the water column without having to worry about the fish above.
 
Keep in mind the the Pom Pom crab is holding two bonsai-versions of anemones. The crab limits the amount of food that they receive in order to keep them tiny. Despite them seeming like just a cool part of the crab, they are very much alive and need stability to thrive. If they die, the crab may die too.

Another thing to keep in mind is that these guys LOVE to hide. I have had mine for well over two months, and I’ve seen it a total of three times so far. And it’s not that I don’t look at my tank enough because I watch it like it’s a TV. Some of them truly do prefer to stay hidden in the shadows catching drifting food from the water column without having to worry about the fish above.

Keep in mind the the Pom Pom crab is holding two bonsai-versions of anemones -

Yup I know, thats why I wanted to make sure the tank was ready


Another thing to keep in mind is that these guys LOVE to hide -

Well thats with most smaller ornamental inverts, even so, they are still cool to have IMO
 
Keep in mind the the Pom Pom crab is holding two bonsai-versions of anemones -

Yup I know, thats why I wanted to make sure the tank was ready


Another thing to keep in mind is that these guys LOVE to hide -

Well thats with most smaller ornamental inverts, even so, they are still cool to have IMO
Yup I know, thats why I wanted to make sure the tank was ready -

I figured you knew that already which is why I said “Keep in mind” and not “FYI”

Well thats with most smaller ornamental inverts, even so, they are still cool to have IMO -

Definitely not true. Small shrimp don’t tend to hide out like that. My Sexy Shrimp is all over the tank shakin her a** 24/7. There’s never a time of day I can’t find her. The crab’s bigger than the shrimp, yet I’ve only seen it those three brief times. I’m not trying to stop you from getting one. Just letting you know what to expect.
 
Yup I know, thats why I wanted to make sure the tank was ready

I figured you knew that already which is why I said “Keep in mind” and not “FYI”

Well thats with most smaller ornamental inverts, even so, they are still cool to have IMO

Definitely not true. Small shrimp don’t tend to hide out like that. My Sexy Shrimp is all over the tank shakin her a** 24/7. There’s never a time of day I can’t find her. The crab’s bigger than the shrimp, yet I’ve only seen it those three brief times. I’m not trying to stop you from getting one. Just letting you know what to expect.
Im sorry If my tone sounded harsh, I meant that I understand thats the case with quite a lot of the smaller ornamental inverts that are similar (smaller solo scrap scavengers) , and that im okay with it. Also can I have some sexy shrimp picks? those guys are cool.
 
there's personal resolve that can be done, and any tank pic shows the degree of that in motion. don't transmit the uglies as a helpless time in reefing, your opening post seemed to wonder if it was going to cause problems so that means step up the resolve. as soon as excuses overtake the will to maintain the tank: welcome dinos. We have lots of threads where disallowance of the uglies works great, day 1 onward.

the #1 cause of dinos in new tanks isn't a param, its a mindset.

example: I can't clean my rocks externally because they're linked in a glued arch, or stacked ten rocks deep (necessitating ongoing N and P adjustments as a partial attempt to slow down the uglies phase)

the opposite mindset would be: anticipates uglies in all dry rock starts, created a modular accessible rock scape planned for easy external removal, never alters N and P outside of what corals want. invasions never control N and P ratios, physical action controls all invasions in reefing and I do have the power to keep a clean tank any time its willed.


those are two very, very opposing mindsets. one catches dinos and the other one doesn't. scan the 400 page dinos control thread see which mindset lead up to posting for invasion help
So much extra work to a solve a problem that solves itself? Why? And losing the ability to glue the scape together. Not to mention the killing of whatever life is on your live rock.
 
If your tank is cycled they are fine. They are no more sensitive than your fish and CUC to the sort of things new tanks have trouble with such as algae growth.
 

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